Jay Salser | 1967 VW Beetle - Restoring A Vintage Volkswagen Bug

Challenges of Vintage Car Ownership

02.03.2017 15 Comments

An older article we wanted to put in the spotlight again, as we’ve been receiving a lot of emails on this topic.

Before I knew “Jonesie” (not his real name), he had purchased a Beetle which, by all logic, should have gone to the crusher. Never had he revived a car, much less a Bug. But, he had disassembled the car, removed the body from the chassis and proceeded to cut and weld and renew the car.

By the time we had met and become better acquainted, he was driving the vehicle but experiencing some major difficulties due to poor advice which he had received and some poor workmanship from a shop which rebuilt his engine and did some front end work.

I took Jonesie under consideration and introduced him to a bonafide VW mechanic and engine builder. Almost immediately the mechanic identified some of the problems. Together, we began solving and drawing the car out of its slump. It was gratifying to see Jonesie driving and enjoying his car. He talked about it, joined a local club, went on cruises and even was joined by his wife in his forays onto the highways.

I wasn’t surprised when he asked for help to build an authentic engine for his year of Beetle. After considerable expense, he soon was cruising with an engine to-kill-for—a real German engine from ring gear to crank pulley.

When he talked to me some months later and announced that he was selling his Beetle and all of his VW things, I was shocked. He told me that he had experienced a problem with his speedometer. Then, there was some other minor problem. These distractions bothered him and resulted in his disenchantment with a vintage vehicle. He plainly told me that he had not expected these things to happen. Clearly he was under the impression that once “restored”, the car was going to run without a hitch.

His has not been the first case I have observed! A person spends thousands of dollars and countless hours laboring to “get it right” only to have little stuff happen—usually when it is least expected and least appreciated—in terms of money, time and inconvenience!

I am a diehard VW fan who doesn’t like break-downs and other mechanical distractions, but I am in there for the long haul! I never have been under any delusion that a restored vintage car is going to be like a brand new car off the assembly line. Nothing is going to work exactly as it did in those days long past. Never!

In an article in the September-October, 2014 Saturday Evening Post, Jeanne Wolf interviewed Jay Leno—known the World ‘round for his vintage car collection and now-famous garage (pp.38-41 and 82). When but a boy, Jay was given a ’34 Ford Pickup to work on. His dad told him that if he could fix it, he could have it. Jay met the challenge and eventually had the truck running. He said about that first challenge: “You sort of learned to respect the machine and how to make it work. That’s probably what really got me into cars. And that’s what has kept me involved in creating my own collection and building the garage.”

Vintage Volkswagen Keys

01.30.2017 18 Comments

Jody is a friend of 1967beetle.com; as he’s been reading since the early days. Again, it’s the community that makes 1967beetle.com what is is. Thanks again, Jay for shining your timing light on another one that makes a difference.

Hello, fellow 1967 VW Beetle connoisseurs. My name is Jody Sauvageau (that’s sav-uh-joe). I’m 44 years old, live in Cumberland, Rhode Island, and have been addicted to Volkswagens since receiving my first Matchbox VW Bug “Dragon Wheels” at the age of 4. I still have that first Matchbox today. I always have owned at least one VW since my first car, a 1977 Rabbit, that I purchased at age 15½. I bought it 6 months before receiving my license so I could “fix her up” in time for that special day. Since then, I almost can’t count how many VWs I’ve owned and brought back to life in one way or another.

One car that never has left me, nor ever will, is my 1967 Sunroof Beetle Deluxe Sedan that has been highlighted here on 1967beetle.com in the past. Finished in L633 VW Blue with Platinum interior, it’s been a labor of love for the last 16 years. I fully restored her myself, aside from paint, from top to bottom, trying to replicate factory standards as best as I could. I have won numerous awards and trophies and was featured in the July, 2014, Hot VW’s Vintage Special Magazine, a dream come true. Now it is retired from judging, but I still take it to a few shows a year.

Besides buying and selling all things VW to feed my addiction (I mean hobby) my newest VW adventure has been cutting VW Keys. It started last year when a friend purchased a VW Beetle project car that had no Keys. He tried contacting a local guy who’s been making Keys “to Code” for VW’s for years, but had no luck getting in touch with him. Every VW lock has a Code stamped on it which represents its Key Cut, but more on that later. Eventually my friend located a locksmith who still could perform the task of cutting an “antique VW Key” by having just the Code, but this came at a premium cost. It was then that it occurred to me: “Maybe this is something I can do!”

Vintage Volkswagen Beetle Fuel Pressure

01.16.2017 18 Comments

Another fantastic and well articulated article from Jay Salser. Our timing lights are pointed in your direction. Thank you for all you do here at 1967beetle.com.

I commonly hear the words—“I had a vapor lock!”

We mostly think of vapor in conjunction with heat. So a BIG question arises when the “vapor lock” occurs under cool circumstances. This renders such a diagnosis suspect.

It is very easy to blame a poorly functioning air-cooled engine on a “vapor lock”. When someone calls to ask what can be done to cure a “vapor lock”, I ask lots of questions.

I want to hear how the car-engine acted. I want to hear about the circumstances that led to the problem. I want to hear about the ambient temperature.

My mind follows the Fuel System from the Tank to the Fuel Pump. And I literally ask the caller questions during my mental perusing of the Fuel System. It’s like a movie playing through my brain as I listen and ask questions.

Did the engine just quit?

Did the engine buck, then finally stall?

Usually people try things like pouring water over the Fuel Lines or over the Fuel Pump.

Or, maybe the caller has changed the Fuel Filter.

In any case usually no firm diagnosis is reached and the next time it happens, the same scenario plays out.

One person reported that his car stalled at the roadside. A passing motorist stopped to give aid. He produced a bottle of water and poured it over the Fuel Pump. Soon, the engine started and the driver resumed his journey homeward. The assumption—the Fuel Pump had suffered a “vapor lock”—even though the weather wasn’t even hot.

Recently, Frank Salvitti talked to me about the “vapor lock” which temporarily put his car out of commission. He had driven a few miles, parked his Beetle and gone into the store to make his purchases. When he came out—the car would not start. He said that he could not see any fuel in the Fuel Filter (mounted, still, in the engine compartment). Eventually, after the engine had cooled, he surmised, the car started and he drove home.

Here’s what I asked Frank to do. I asked him to get a Fuel Pressure Gauge to connect between the Fuel Pump and the Carburetor. In a few days, he reported Fuel Pressure in excess of 5 PSI. This is far too much pressure.

The Float Valve (commonly called the Needle Valve) in the top of the Carburetor cannot withstand such High Pressure. Gasoline forces its way into the Bowl and begins to overflow down the throat of the Carburetor. When this happens, not enough air can mix with the un-atomized gasoline and the engine is choking to death on raw fuel. It either stalls or won’t restart after having been turned off.

Until all of that raw gas has dispersed and evaporated.

Think of the Bowl of the Carburetor as a toilet tank. If we hold the float down, water continues to fill the tank until it finally overflows. We have generated “excessive pressure” on the tank float—overpowering the cut-off mechanism.

Sometimes the Pressure is so great that gasoline can be seen percolating in the filter (if it is connected between the Pump and the Carb). With the Air Breather removed, raw gas sometimes can be seen over-flowing down the throat of the Carburetor. This especially can be seen if the car has been parked nose-uphill.

First, let’s review how the Fuel Pump operates through the following photographs.

The 1967 Beetle Fuel System

12.14.2016 24 Comments

The Fuel System of an air-cooled Volkswagen is not a complicated System.

But, there are some Fuel Issues which continue to plague the VW Community—some of them easily resolved with a little bit of thinking and work. These are things which most of us can do ourselves.

First, rather than running to all of the forums on the subject, it’s time to sit down to consider how the Fuel System of our Beetles works.

CAUTION: When working with Gasoline—ALWAYS work outdoors and away from any source of flame or spark!

The Fuel Tank:

Complaints about Gasoline Fumes are common. Two things usually contribute to Gasoline Odor in the Trunk. This Odor often penetrates to the Cabin area.

Let’s talk about the Tank Filler Neck. Note that there is a tiny Tube coming off the Neck
pointing towards the left side of the car. By removing the Gas Cap and looking into the Filler Neck, we can see the Tube protruding into the inside of the Filler Neck. Where it protrudes, it is slightly pinched. This is to limit the amount of liquid gasoline which can escape through the Tube. A tiny Rubber Vapor Hose (N203531—ID-2.0 mm/OD-3.5 mm) is pushed onto the tube where it exits the Filler Neck. It needs no clamp since it fits tightly and there is no pressure upon it. (Note: Vapor Hose also may be marketed as Vacuum Hose.)

The Vapor Hose loops back towards the driver, then back again to the front of the car where it is pushed through an opening and allowed to dangle several inches beneath the car. Thus, any Gasoline Vapors will exit beneath the car and will not escape through the Trunk area and into the Cabin. If the Vapor Hose is missing or improperly routed—Gasoline Vapors will permeate the Trunk area and pass into the Cabin. Be sure that the Hose is present and routed through the hole to beneath the car. 2 Hose Clips (111-201-261) keep the Vapor Hose stabilized on the Cowling Loop.

If the Tank Filler Neck Tube becomes plugged, gasoline will not flow properly from the Tank Outlet. Also, make certain that the Vapor Hose is not pinched or plugged.

’67 Beetle Fuel Hose Clamp Tool

11.24.2016 12 Comments

When talking about working on the Fuel System of our Beetles, one of the greatest concerns we have is Fuel Spillage.

Gasoline is a wonderful “invention” but one which we should respect because of its evaporative and, thus, flammable qualities. We must use great care when working with gasoline. My number one rule is to work with gasoline outdoors so that gas vapors cannot accumulate

I frequently am asked by fellow Volkswagen enthusiasts what to do about gasoline spillage. This is a valid concern. When changing the fuel hoses, there always is the possibility for some gasoline to be spilled.

THERE IS A BETTER WAY!

While talking with my good 1967 Beetle friend, Frank Salvitti, of Long Island, New York, this past weekend, the subject of fuel spillage came up.

Says Frank—“Oh…that’s no problem! I use Line Clamp Pliers.” Now, Frank is a seasoned mechanic and knows things that a lot of us DIY-ers don’t. I asked Frank to explain his process and he told me that he would send some photos to illustrate his tool of choice.

Over the years, I have seen screws inserted into the ends of hoses, pieces of whittled wood, and other variations, in order to avoid the loss of gasoline while the person is working to change fuel hoses. But it takes time to insert something into the hose. In the meantime, the gasoline is draining. I laugh now, but I recall the many times I was beneath a VW, working on a fuel hose, and had the fuel to drain right onto my face or clothing. Not much way to avoid it if you are working with the fuel hose over head!

Frank emphasized the simplicity of the Line Clamp Tool and how to use it. The beauty is that if anything at all spills, it will be a couple of drops which remain at the end of the hose after it has been clamped. A paper towel can be placed there when the hose is disconnected and will take care of such a small amount.

The Clamp is applied appropriately—THEN—the fuel hose is disconnected.