Now that we’re on the topic of 30-PICT 1 carb restoration. Here’s another tutorial from good pal in NY, Chris Vallone of Classic VW Bugs. He talks through the process of servicing a 30-PICT 1, without having to do a full complete rebuild.
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Thanks Eric. These emails and links are always very helpful. My 66 1300 sedan has a tired Solex 28PICT. It was rejetted for the 1600cc single port currently installed. I suspect the previous owner may have not put this carb back togeather correctly. I have a rebuilt 30PICT2 that I bought about three years ago. I am going to install that one this weekend. My question to you is this: Was the 30PICT carb correct for a 66 sedan? Have you heard of a dash2 version of this carb and if so do you know what year/engine it was used on. I had the guy jet this rebuild for a 1600cc and I am running a period correct vacume advance Bosch distributor.
thanks for your great nesletters. I have forgotten how many years I have been subscribing.
By the way, I took your advice about four years ago and put a correct fuel line in the engine compartment and installed the "line" filter under the vehicle far away from the engine. I have talked two other VW owners into the same "safe" method of fuel line installation.
Owner of two fully restored "stock" VWs:
Sea Blue 1966 1300 (except 1600cc) engine.
Pastel White 1971 Westphalia poptop camper (except 1776cc) engine.
No, THANK YOU for reading.
Yes, the 30PICT 1 carb is correct for a '66. The thing is, there are two versions. The '66 version and the '67 version. One is 6V (obviously) and the other 12. the 12V is the first year of the active fuel circuit.
It gets more fun, however. The '66 carb can be converted to a '67 carb by drilling out the needle valve to allow for it to function on a '67 Beetle. This gets done a lot because the true 30 PICT units are getting harder to find. Look on the side of your carb. It should say VW 75-1. A '67 is V 105-1. A bit too much information, but....
Jay can speak more to this!
Kevin...I just finished working up a 28 PICT carburetor for a friend's '62 Beetle. This carb was relevant to Beetles from 1960-1963. The following year, Beetles came with the 28 Pict-1s with a variant 2 version of this. The version 2 was subject to recall if it didn't perform properly--Volkswagen told its mechanics to install the version 1 in that case.
For year '66, Beetles destined for the USA market came with the 30 Pict-1 carburetor with designations 47-1 (early return spring), 75-1 (late return spring) and 83-1 (this one may have been a factory replacement carb--some question here). These all had 6 volt choke heaters. In place of the pilot jet valve (sometimes called the idle cut-off jet), there was a fixed brass jet. The '66 version of the 30 Pict-1 did NOT have the Power Fuel System. I did an article for 1967Beetle.com a short while ago regarding this aspect of the 30 Pict-1 carb versions.
The 30 Pict-2 carb is for '68-'69 Standard transmission Beetles and for autostick trannies into 1970 (with extra vacuum ports).
Since you are modifying a bit, you'd probably be better off using a 30 Pict-1 from the '67 Bug era--the VW 105-1 or one of the other '67 30 Pict-1s (that came for Buses and Ghias). It has the Power Fuel System. If your Beetle has been altered to 12 volts, you can install the pilot jet valve instead of the g55 brass valve.
I have used 30 Pict-1s for all of my single-port engines over the years and really like them. They have given me plenty of good service and are so simple to work with.
The 30 Pict-2 is somewhat more complicated in its attempt to be emissions-friendly.
Excellent information Jay. Thanks sharing. The rebuilt 30 pict-1 I had in stock is working great. Just a bit of idle adjustment was needed. No dredded flat spots at all.
Merry Christmas, Kevin! I am glad that you found a good 30 Pict-1 in your VW inventory! It should give excellent service. They are my favorite carb!
I just sold one to a customer. He will be sending it for the final stages of restoration. The 105-1s are becoming quite scarce. I was glad to be able to assemble another complete one. I'm going to try for another one from my stash. May the New Year bring you and yours much happiness! jay
Hi Jay -- Thank you for the carb tips. My stock 67 daily driver has the VW 105-1 and has provided good service-- except for one nagging problem. After a long hard run (75 mph for about 25 miles) the carb wants to flood after it's been parked. I can smell a faint fuel oder and see a small drip of fuel from the butterfly shaft. I've replaced the cutoff valve and rebuilt the carb. This does not happen every time, but more often than not. Any idea's? Russ -- Georgetown Texas
Thanks for reading!
Hello, Russ...Thanks for checking into 1967Beetle.com!
I think that the first thing to check would be the fuel pressure from the fuel pump. If you do not have a gauge suitable for this test, check with a mechanic. Most mechanics have such a gauge. This is a simple test that does not require much time or effort. The pressure should be 1.5 to 2.5 psi. Closer to 1.5 is better. If the pressure is too high, to remedy the problem, you can add a gasket beneath the fuel pump--this raises the pump, thus shortening the stroke.
If your car is parked on level ground, after one of your drives, remove the air breather. You may be able to see the gas coming out of the tube which comes from the bowl and drains into the throat of the carburetor. That can be a sign of too much fuel pressure and thus over-filling of the bowl.
When I rebuild these carbs, I habitually use the thicker of the two washers, which come in the kit, to put beneath the float valve (called needle-and-seat). Remember, the carb bowl is just like the tank on a toilet--you don't want the valve set so that the bowl over-fills.
The problem with the dripping at the throttle shaft concerns the over-flow, of course, but is possibly symptomatic of the need for throttle shaft bushings.
The throttle shaft of a stock German Carburetor rides on the body of the carburetor--no bushings come on a stock carb. Eventually, the action of the throttle lever causes the shaft to wear an elliptical orifice in the shaft opening. This results in leakage--it becomes more critical with more wear until the carburetor cannot be adjusted properly due to sucking outside air. Then, in your case, if there is a gas leak (as we have discussed above) gas will drip from around the throttle shaft.
I hope that this gives you somewhere to begin your discovery process. Keep us posted about your progress.
Hi Jay, thanks for the fuel pressure tip, however this was the first item I checked and had to add a few gaskets to get the pressure down to under 2 psi with the new fuel pump last year. The float was checked on the last rebuild 2 years ago and was ok. I did not pull the air cleaner off to see if it was leaking thru the tube mentioned in your reply, but that is next. Have a Merry Christmas and good new year! If your down Austin way, stop by and visit, we are in Georgetown.
Hi, Russ...let me get back, first, to the issue of the needle and seat (the float valve). Since gasoline has been ethanolized, we have to maintain a constant vigilance upon fuel lines--anything with rubber. This includes the needle and seat valve. They can go bad because of the ethanol. This is not a difficult thing to check but does require removal of the carb top.
Next, you told me, I believe, that you installed a new fuel pump. There are two types of fuel pumps available these days (two styles): 1 for use with engines using a generator and another for use with engines using the alternator.
The pump to be used with the alternator is canted so that it will fit to the space--the "head" of the alternator is quite a bit larger than that of the generator, you will note. When one installs the alternator-type pump, he must also install the matching push rod. If you kept the same push rod from the old pump, this may be the reason why you have had to install several gaskets beneath the pump. It is something to check on.
Next...do you notice any difference in the level of the oil when you check the oil, or that it has thinned? That would be an indication of fuel over-flowing the bowl and coursing down the carb throat and into the cylinders.. an indication of a faulty float valve needle and seat, and/or too much pressure at the pump.
If this is not the case, perhaps the only problem comes down to the worn throttle shaft orifice! The cure for that is to have the throttle shaft orifice bushed. Or to have an over-sized throttle shaft fitted to the carb.
Continue your diagnosis. Let us know what you discover.
Thanks for the invite to Georgetown, TXD! That would be a nice trip. The problem is getting my "horse" to carry me that far. He got too old too soon! LOL
Hi Jay, ethanol is a big problem. We have an old Aston Martin that we have to run 110 octane/leaded fuel to keep all the rubber bits from going bad. However with the 67 VW, we run the cheapest gas we can find! I appreciate your expertise and will probably re investigate the needle and seat as a possible culprit (as this happens every now and again). The oil in the crank case is fine and never smells of fuel. Have a great Christmas and New Year! Russ
Thank you for the wonderful tutorial. I drive a 59 single cab daily driver with a 1500 single port. I'm presently running an H30 PIC manual choke carb and the time has come for a refresh. I was wondering how to clean out the ball checks and you gave me the answers I came for. Thanks again. sy
You got it!
Hello, Sy...I am glad that you found the information on 1967beetle.com which will help you with your rebuild. The H30/31 is a great carburetor. I run one of these on my single-port 1600 engine in my 1968 Karmann Ghia (it was on the engine when I bought the car). There's a slight problem with removal of the accelerator pump check ball, however. The Brazilians failed to tap the brass plug, making it impossible to remove the plug in order to remove the check ball. What I do is to tap the plug--it already has the cavity ready to be tapped. I believe that it is fine-thread 7mm. That's what the threads are on the tail light screws. You can use the screw to do the threading, if you are careful. Use some WD-40 or a fine oil to lubricate whilst you are doing this. First, carefully remove the self-starting tip of the screw so that you can take advantage of all of the threads. Be careful not to cut any of the threads! Then, carefully start the screw into the brass. Don't hurry! Do a turn, remove the screw and clean using compressed air. Then do the next round, and so forth until you have bottomed the screw. The key is not to hurry. Once you have the plug tapped, you are ready to remove the plug--screw in the tail light screw until it bottoms, then pop the screw, plug and all out. The ball should fall right into your hand. Happy rebuilding! jay
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Ha, ha, Eric...Well...you'll get no argument from me.
I'm waiting for the all out argument..
Hello, Frank...I have discussed the undercoating "dilemma" many,
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