Differences Between 30 Pict-1 Carburetors

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — Differences Between 30 Pict-1 Carburetors

I have been driving and working on ’67 Beetles for over 37 years. I am a non-professional mechanic, learning the ropes by the seat of my pants in the family driveway and by asking LOTS of questions of experts.

Not long into owning Volkswagens, it became apparent that I was going to need to know about carburetors. My VW mechanic, at the time, was obliging, telling me some tricks of the trade. By this time of life (I’m now 74) I thought that I knew the 30 Pict-1 inside and out, by heart, and could work on them in the dark. But…….

That “but” caught me way off-guard. It caught some other people off-guard, as well. Here’s how it happened. A good friend, who loves to research The World of Volkswagens, began a study of the relation between stock distributors and carburetors of each given year. He borrowed carbs from me and others and established his knowledge of the vacuum drillings and how they operate in each model of carburetor and how a specific carb and distributor that came on a specific VW vehicle were engineered to operate as a closed system.

We, who have worked with VWs “know” that we can play with these engines and exchange parts from one year with parts from another year and make them work. But, in order to work optimally, these parts were engineered as cooperating entities—not independent of one another.

And so, I was brought up short when my friend announced to me that there were two versions of the 30 Pict-1 carb for USA import Beetles. I even argued the point. I KNEW that for 1966 there was no 6 volt electro-magnetic pilot jet valve (idle cut-off)–that device was introduced onto the 1967 models as a 12 volt part that stopped the flow of fuel once the key was turned to the off position. It is rather an anti-dieseling device. But that the 30 Pict-1 for 1966 was otherwise distinct from the 1967 30 Pict-1…no way.

30-pict1

Based upon this new information, I dug through my supplies of carbs until I found and separated those from 1966 (1300 engines) and those from the 1967 1500 engines (note that I am speaking about vehicles specifically exported from Germany into the USA through dealerships).

And because we of 1967Beetle.com are concerned with Beetles, and, specifically 1967 Beetles, my comparisons will be limited to the ’66 and ’67 Beetle versions of the 30 Pict-1 carburetors. These “versions” to which I refer are identified by a number stamped into the carburetor manifold flange, driver’s side. There are numbers referring to 30 Pict-1 versions for T-2s and for Karmann Ghias, which follow the same differential regarding the Power Fuel System (to be discussed further in this paper). Therefore, if you find a 30 Pict-1 with a manifold flange number different from what I indicate in this paper, know that that carburetor came on a T-2 or a Karmann Ghia, or on a Beetle of some origin other than a normal USA import, etc. That’s a complicated discussion for some other venue.

Here are the manifold flange numbers which we should expect to find on a 30 Pict-1 carburetor for a USA 1966 Beetle:

  • VW 47-1 with the early style throttle return spring
  • VW 75-1 with the late style throttle return spring
  • VW 83-1 with the late style throttle return spring

Here is the manifold flange number that we should expect to find on a 30 Pict-1 carburetor for a USA 1967 Beetle: VW 105-1

Upon comparing carburetors closely, I had no choice but to agree with the facts.

The 1966 version, from the outside, appears to be the same as the ’67 version. The bodies are cast identically. However, upon closer inspection, one can see that there is a drilling that is not continuous in the ’66 version, whereas the drilling in the ’67 version IS continuous and contributes to what is called the “Power Fuel System”.

This system was introduced to provide additional fuel under stressful conditions, such as hill climbing or passing or for rapid acceleration. It is vacuum activated.

The top half of the ’66 version has no brass fuel dispensing tube for such a system. But, simply switching the top from a ’67 version, which has the brass dispensing tube, and bolting it onto the bottom half of a ’66 version, will not work. This is because, although the casting is present in the ’66 version, it is not drilled through to the bowl—the source of the fuel to be dispensed.

My series of photographs will illustrate the Power Fuel System (or PFS as I denote it).

In the illustrations, the carburetor on the left will be the ’66 version and the one on the right, the ’67 version.

Illustration #1 pictures both German Solex 30 Pict-1 versions. The non-PFS ’66 version, on the left, is stamped “VW 83-1” on the manifold flange. The ’67 version, on the right, is stamped “VW 105-1” on the manifold flange. Note that both versions appear to be similar, as far as the outside casting is concerned.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #2 shows both carburetor top halves from a top view, clearing showing the lack of the PFS dispensing tube in the ’66 version (left) and its presence in the ’67 version (right).

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #3 shows both tops, again, but from the bottom perspective, again showing the lack of or presence of the PFS dispensing tube. Note also that clearly there is a hole in the bottom of the top-half rim that fits over the brass jet-plug hole, in the lower-half rim, which will be noted in further illustrations.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #4 shows identical drillings in both carburetor top halves but, again, no dispensing tube in the ’66 version (left). The drilling in the ’67 version (right) matches its dispensing tube.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #5 shows the bottom halves of both versions demonstrating the PFS drilling into the rim of the driver’s side of the carburetor. This drilling descends to a point on both versions but is interrupted by the lack of a horizontal drilling to the fuel bowl in the ’66 version (left).

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Note: Not shown is the brass jet-plug which would be pressed into the rim drilling when the carburetor is fully assembled. Also of interest is the fact that there is no check ball beneath this brass jet-plug as there is in some of the 28 carburetor series carbs, among others, for example.

Illustration #6 shows the driver’s side of the bottom halves of both versions. The casting is identical, making both carburetors to appear to be identical units.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #7 shows the end of the horizontal casting in the ’66 version (driver’s side)—the end has not been plugged. This means that it has not been drilled, then had the end plugged.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #8 shows that the horizontal casting in the ’67 version (driver’s side) has been drilled, then plugged. Note the tiny, shiny plug.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #9 shows the inside of the bowl of the ’66 version—no drilling is present, thus disallowing any fuel to be pulled through to the PFS dispensing tube.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #10 shows that the horizontal casting on the ’67 version has been drilled through and into the fuel bowl so that vacuum will pull fuel through the drillings and out the dispensing tube.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #11 shows the ’66 version carburetor bottom half (left) with the Brass Jet on the passenger side of the carb, and the ’67 version (right) with the Electro-magnetic, 12 volt, Pilot Jet Valve (idle cut-off).

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Of course, Volkswagen trained and certified specialists knew of all of these differences and didn’t switch carburetors from one car to another unwittingly. Nor did they mismatch tops and bottoms.

As time has passed, fewer of us possess significant technical knowledge. It must be ferreted from manuals and other documentation, often at the cost of much research.

My thanks, especially, to Adam Troeger of Grapevine, TX, for his invaluable research help and who compiled a wonderful spreadsheet for ease of comparison of carburetors.

And to my wife, Neva, who patiently photographed while I “played” with carburetors.

Additional thanks to several who made contributions to:
TheSamba and to Andy T. who compiled data from several sources. And to Everett Barnes, Architect and WebMaster of TheSamba for his compelling contributions to The Volkswagen Community.

The Finishing Touches for Your Vintage Volkswagen™

Jay Salser

I’ve been driving and working on VWs for over 37 years. In fact, I raised my family in these cars. Now, I’m 75 years old and enjoy VWs as a hobby. The ’67 Beetle always has been my favorite year.

31 Comments

Eric

about 1 year ago

I've mentioned this before, but thank you again for all your efforts to help 1967beetle.com grow. Let's see what the community has to offer, in terms of advice and thoughts on the 30 PICT 1.

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Timm Eubanks

about 1 year ago

Thank you Jay for the time and knowledge!

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Jay Salser

about 1 year ago

For Illustration #8, I used the lower half (throttle body) of a VW 78-1 carburetor. It has the Power Fuel System and is a 30 Pict-1 from a VW other than a Beetle. My apologies for not showing the VW 105-1....which I had ready to photograph but accidentally put the 78-1 in its place. I discovered this misstep too late in the process to reverse it. Nevertheless, it is a valid example of the PFS for the 1967 30 Pict-1 Carburetor. I know that someone is going to catch this sooner or later. jay

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Eric

about 1 year ago

I did notice that. However, the purist in me kept my mouth shut.

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matthewjohnkeen

about 1 year ago

Excellent article my friend!

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Tom Griffin

about 1 year ago

This is over-the-top cool! Thanks, Jay, for all the details and to Neva for the great pictures. I thoroughly enjoyed your article and precise style of writing!

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Kevin morton

about 1 year ago

Wow great write up! Lots of info, I learned something I didn't know. This is a great forum for our '67 Volkswagens. I have to see exactly what carb I'm running.

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Eric

about 1 year ago

Kevin, Hopefully the right one. *Smile

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Mike Buettell

about 1 year ago

Whoa................more information than I can handle. I just trust Ed Fall At Vintage Werks to keep me going. Now there is a quality guy with a ton of integrity.

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Eric

about 1 year ago

Thanks all! Jay really did a great job with this one. Go, Jay!

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Nelson

about 1 year ago

Jeff, so you can put a 1967 pic 30 pict on 1966 bug ?but not vise a versa ?

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Jay Salser

about 1 year ago

It IS possible to run the '66 version on a '67 Bug. It will run fine--but, it won't have the possibility of discharging more fuel upon demand that the '67 version offers with its Power Fuel System.

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Nelson

about 1 year ago

My pic 30 saids vw-75 on the flange. What year is that ?

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Eric

about 1 year ago

Nelson, That's a '66 version.

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Larry

about 1 year ago

Another very interesting and certainly useful article from Jay. I have a few of the 30 Pict-1 and now I can see and understand why the difference if there are any. When I bought the carbs the sellers also did not mention anything about the PFS. Perhaps they too were unaware of this. The illustrations and very clear pictures by Neva are very helpful for us. Thank you Jay for sharing your knowledge posting in the 67beetle.com. Keep up the good work. We definitely has benefitted from your article.

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Ed Fall

about 1 year ago

Jay is to be commended on the research he has done. It is correct as far as my information is concerned. I am aware of other versions than the ones he mentions but they are for Karmann Ghia and Transporter use such at the VW106-1 and VW107-1. He is also correct that VW and its suppliers such as Solex and Bosch were very deliberate in there designs of distributor/carburetor pairing, and to achieve optimal performance of the vintage VW engines strict adherence to these pairings is essential. That said, it is possible to substitute different versions of the 30PICT-1 given that it is often difficult to find the version you want. Most people on your website are going to be interested in the VW105-1 version with active power fuel circuit. If they don't have one and/or can't find one, it is possible to convert an earlier version to the later version in the following manner: You can use a top from a 28PICT-1 carburetor which has a power fuel circuit and place it on a 30PICT-1 base. You must drill out the needed galleries on the base to activate the circuit. Also, you must use stamped brackets that allow you to use the late style throttle return on the 28PICT-1 top. Solex actually fabricated pieces that bolt to the carburetor top and also to the throttle linkage to allow them to set up a late style throttle return on a carburetor such as the 28PICT-1 or 30PICT-1 VW47-1 which was originally designed to use early throttle return. Using originals as patterns, I have had both the upper and lower brackets made for use with either 28PICT/PICT-1 or 30PICT-1 carburetors allowing conversion to late style throttle return. As far as the power fuel circuit, the interesting thing is that I've seen all versions of the '66 carburetor base, i.e. VW47-1, 75-1, 83-1 without the circuit drilled and with the circuit drilled as delivered from the factory--of course all of these would have been missing the critical brass nozzle on the carburetor top which in fact allows the circuit to become active. However, it suggests that the factory probably began drilling out the galleries at some point so that the bases could be used on any version of the carburetor. Anyway, drilling out this gallery is no big deal--I've done it many times. Of course in the strictest sense the VW105-1 version is technically the correct original carburetor for the '67 beetle. If you have further questions, let me know. Best regards, Ed Fall Vintage Werks LLC 801-355-0266 edfall@vintagewerks.com

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Jay Salser

about 1 year ago

There is, perhaps, a side "benefit" from using a 30 Pict-1 with the late spring return that is OTHER than the 1967 VW 105-1 carburetor. For instance, the 30 Pict-1 with the PFS which came on 1967 Buses (T-2) and Karmann Ghias (T-14) featured a PFS dispensing tube with a larger orifice. Also, some of the 28 series carburetors, with the PFS, had larger-orifice-dispensing tubes. As one person commented to me, during my discovery process...this might be an advantage, given today's ethanolized gasoline. More gasoline upon demand than the VW 105-1 could dispense. So...if you are not interested in a numbers-matching engine compartment but want to take advantage of perhaps a little extra boost, leave your non-'67 Beetle 30 Pict-1 where it sits on your manifold.

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Eric Shoemaker

about 1 year ago

Jay, This is fantastic information. Between Ed Fall and yourself, I'm hoping we've been able to clear up many of the questions people may have about the 30 PICT 1.

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Richard

about 3 months ago

Wow... That is GREAT info. Seriously useful info for most of us playing with out 67s. And an extra bit of performance if we are using the wrong model. Thanks guys. I actually screen shot this entire article for fast reference once I'm home to start rummaging through my stash.

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Jay Salser

about 3 months ago

That's a good way to save information for quick reference, Richard. Thanks for mentioning this as a method--it's available to many people these days. jay

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Richard

about 3 months ago

Ha... I knew I'd be needing this info. I'm now smarter and saved to home screen, the whole articles I need. Meaning all....lol, saves the photo storage. Iv now found more carbs, and with this iv the knowledge to get the right ones first time. Thanks again guys... All great stuff.

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Mark Hamling

about 2 months ago

Hi, I've recently got a 30 pict 1 as a replacement for a 1300 DP engine. My other beetle has a 34 Pict 3 and I know how to tune that, can anyone recommend a good place to look or method to correctly adjust the 30 pict 1?

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Eric Shoemaker

about 2 months ago

Info on the way!

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Eric Shoemaker

about 2 months ago

Give this a read, while we are doing some research for you.

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Jay Salser

about 2 months ago

Hello, Mark...First let's talk a minute about your carburetor. The 30 Pict-1 Series is an efficient and simple carburetor. I have used them for many years with great results. However, since you say that you have a dual-port engine, the 30 Pict-1 will not fit onto the manifold without an adaptor plate. The 30 Pict-1 is not suited for a dual-port engine. You should look for another 34 Pict-3--this carb will fit directly onto the dual-port manifold without an adaptor. I hope that this helps. jay

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Mark Hamling

about 2 months ago

Hi Jay, Thanks for responding. The Engine I have is a 1973 Twin-port 1300 AB code engine. It has been stored, unused for a long period. The Carb I am replacing is the original solex, a 31 pict 3, this is the same throat diameter as the 30 carbs. I understood the 34 picts fit the wider throated 1600 twin ports.

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Jay Salser

about 2 months ago

Hello, again, mark...You must live other than in the USA. This was unclear in your original message. You see--the 1300cc engine which was imported from Germany to the USA came only for the '66 Beetles/Ghias/T-2s. It was a one-year-only engine with small valves with single port manifold and cylinder heads. I am completely unfamiliar with the 1300 "twin-port" engines. We never have seen a 31 Pict-3 carburetor here--only the 30 Pict 1, 2 and 3s. My chart shows these as "non-USA only" carburetors. I cannot comment on their functions as compared with the 30 Pict-1 carbs. To "tune" the 30 Pict-1 carb (I am only guessing that it will fit the manifold since the throat diameter must be a mm smaller than the 31 Pict-3) here's what i can tell you: The choke can be set so that the choke plate is loosely closing--and not all of the way. In other words...do not set the choke so tight that it is slammed shut. You don't want to wait for 5 minutes for it to open. Be sure that the wire to the choke element is securely fastened. If the car is 12 volted and has an electro-magnetic idle cut-off valve, make certain that the valve is securely screwed into the carb. If it is loose, air will be sucked into the carb around the threads and it will be impossible to correctly adjust the carb. Be sure that the wire to the cut-off valve is securely connected. If your car does not have the cut-off valve--skip this step. There is only one screw on the driver's side of the carb. Screw this screw completely into the carb. Don't screw it hard--just so that it seats. Now, back it out 1-1/2 turns. This will allow the carb to run, although it prob. will need further adjusting. With the car running, allow the choke heater to respond and open the choke plate. Now, you can adjust the screw mentioned above. Turn clockwise VERY slowly in until you hear the engine begin to slow. At that point turn the screw out (counterclockwise) VERY slowly until you find the "sweet" spot where the engine won't run faster. Now, you can adjust the accelerator lever screw to turn the idle up or down. I listen to my engines and turn it according to "my ear". I don't want too fast or too slow. At operating temperature, it should run nice and smoothly but not fast. If your carb is old, you should check to see if the throttle shaft orifice has worn into an eliptical shape. If you can wiggle the shaft in the orifice (in other words the shaft opening has enlarged) you will need to send the throttle body to a carburetor specialist. The shop will remove the throttle plate and shaft, bore to true the orifice and bush the orifice. The new bushings will be bored to match the steel shaft. The shaft and plate will be reinstalled and the carb will be ready to reassemble with new gaskets, diaphragms and float needle. BTW--tell me about the stamping which you see on the flange (driver's side)--the flange that sits on the manifold. I hope that this helps. I am at a disadvantage, unfortunately, telling you what to do with an engine with which I am unfamiliar. jay

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Mark Hamling

about 2 months ago

Thanks for coming back to me, you're right, I'm in the UK so a non US vehicle. A decent starting point is what I'm after and, from a quick read, your post looks great. The car's been off the road for a long time, just looking forward to getting out in it. The help is much appreciated.

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Jay Salser

about 2 months ago

Mark...why don't you use the 31 Pict-3 carb? It probably is most suited to this engine--jetting, etc.--since apparently it was designed for this engine. I don't have too much hope that the 30 Pict-1 is going to get the job done. jay

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Frank Schieber

about 2 months ago

Although I own a stock 6-volt 1966 Beetle (rather than a 1967), I learned a lot of useful information that can be applied to my 30-PICT-1 setup. Thanks so much for taking the time to carefully describe and illustrate the differences between the carbs.

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Eric Shoemaker

about 2 months ago

Frank, You're welcome!

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