This article was submitted by a reader and friend of 1967beetle.com, Mike Buettell. A huge thanks to him for taking the time to compose such valuable content. We’d like your feedback. Please chime in below.
I’m sure all of you at some time have asked: I wonder what my 1967 Beetle is worth?
The recent posting here of that beautiful Zenith Blue Beetle for $29,900 at Crevier Classic Cars in Newport Beach begs the question; is it worth it? To answer that question, I went to the Price Guide Report at Hagerty Insurance for guidance.
- According to Hagerty, a condition 1 (essentially perfect) ’67 Beetle in early 2012 was worth $17,000. Today, they say $24,000.
- A condition 2 (almost perfect) in 2012 was $13,000. Today it is $17,000. Condition 3 and 4 cars (drivers) have held constant in the $5,000 to $8,000 range over the past few years.
So, where are prices headed? It’s my opinion that “drivers” will rise slightly in the future? Why? The law of supply and demand. Stock ones are getting harder and harder to find, but they are out there. Condition 1 and 2 Beetles, on the other hand, should appreciate about 10% a year for two reasons.
The ’67 Beetle is the best car VW ever made (I’m obviously biased). Just try and find a “show” quality one!
Unless you have a shop and a lot of time and talent, paying to take a driver to “show” condition can easily cost $15,000-$20,000, or more. That is if you can find a top quality restorer who doesn’t have a year backlog of vintage VW buses and 356 Porsches he needs to finish. Do the math. If you want a condition 1 car, it’s cheaper to find a guy who has already done the resto and now needs to sell, than pay for a restoration yourself.
So, what do I think the Crevier L639 Zenith Blue is worth? In the words of Kieth Martin (Sports Car Market) I’d say, “$25,000 would be a fair deal for both buyer and seller.”
Now, let’s hear your thoughts.
Thanks for that info Eric. Even my #2 totally stock sea blue 1300 sedan has gone up quite a bit these last four years. I currently have a 14K replacement value on it with Hagarty.
I really don’t know what I’ve got on plate, my a Mom has a beetle with a Manx body on it, but she says the engine needs rebuilding, the motor is dismantled, has been stored in her garage, I need a fair market price for it, she needs the cash, thanks if you can help.
Hello, Grady…Your vehicle cannot be evaluated as we might an unaltered VW. I suggest that you go to the following Link to look at the various vehicles which may resemble yours. See if you can establish a value by comparing your vehicle with those resembling what you find there:
After reading this article Beth wants me to go buy that 67 in Encinitas.
Yes, please do! I just so happen to know the #1 source for ’67 Beetle knowledge.
Taken from Hagerty’s Valuation Guide
Vehicle Condition 1
Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best car, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the car has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 cars is “concours.”
Vehicle Condition 2
#2 cars could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 cars that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and interior will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine compartment. The vehicle will drive as a new car of its era would. The one word description for #2 cars is “excellent.”
Vehicle Condition 3
#3 cars could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 car, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior. #3 cars drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These cars are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. “Good” is the one word description of a #3 car.
Vehicle Condition 4
#4 cars are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the fender has a minor dent. The interior could have split seams or a cracked dash. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or the interior might not be stock. A #4 car can also be a deteriorated restoration. “Fair” is the one word that describes a #4 car.
It is worthwhile noting that there are factors which can “perturb” the value of a vehicle–such as the SunRoof Edition. Usually these cars have an intrinsic value higher than that of a car without, in this case, the SunRoof.
Also, the values above, I believe, are indicative of the Sedan and not of the Convertible Models. Convertibles traditionally fetch more at the sales.
Jay is completely correct. Here is the Hagerty price guide for ’67 Verts
They say a condition 1 Vert is worth $39,000 !
Your right Jay,
under vehicle value details there is a note to add +7% for the sunroof sedan…yay!
My 67 beetle has a sun roof, no engine. It’s rough. I have no idea what to price this bohemuth at, any advice?
We would need to see some photos.
Hi Eric, I have a totally random question. My grandpa (he passed a couple years ago) has a 67 bug on the side of his house. It’s been there for as long as I can recall – he has always wanted to restore it but never got to. I’m not expert but as it’s been there for many many years, it’s not in the best shape. Is it worth selling and if so, what would it even be worth?
I agree, Christie…send as many photos as you can of the interior, under the front hood, of the engine and full frontal and full rear photographs. Very important is knowing the condition of the bottom of the car. Has the car been under a shelter protected from the weather? Has water been entering the vehicle? Has the car been parked on concrete or on bare earth? You must also locate the title and match it to the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)–there are two of these on the car. 1. behind the spare tire and 2. beneath the rear seat. Both of these MUST match the VIN on the title. If there is a discrepancy, it may be costly to acquire a clean title to the car. This is a start to learning the value of this car. Send to firstname.lastname@example.org
Just makes me more proud to be the owner of these awesome cars. Thanks for sharing that with us.
Thanks for following our efforts.
I am trying to do an insurance claim with USAA and on 1967 condition 3 and they are placing value at 2,784. Can we say total scam. Anyone ever worked with them?
Bill, that is very interesting. I am getting a ’67 grade 3 soon as a driver because my 66 bus grade 2 value is now through the roof. I have long suspected Hagerty’s and collector car insurance in general is so low not due to risk, but due to aggessive fight of paying claims. Lots of clauses. Good subject for the expert panel.
Hello, we are considering buying a 1967 Beetle. Year I was born and my dream car! We will need to replace under body:( Damn NY weather. No plans on it being show worthy and no winters planned. Body is good, interior not bad. Runs good. Torn with how much to offer? The guy is flipping with no work into it, possibly he paid $500?
Hello, Donna…Thank you for consulting 1967beetle.com. Here may be your opportunity to own a ’67! Right! Do not torture yourself over what the seller paid for the car (maybe even he got it for free). It’s the intrinsic value of the car he’s after and which you, in the end, will pay. Why don’t you send photos of the car and the asking price to: email@example.com Eric will share these with me and we can give you some pointers. Remember: rust is “cancer”. Cancer cannot be ignored. Whether or not you restore this car to a “show car” is beside the point. Rust removal/control is expensive. Having rust anywhere in a car means that it is growing and will continue to grow. It does not stop just because the car isn’t driven under poor weather conditions! Our advice always is to buy a car which has no rust! But, if you do buy one with rust–be sure that you take this into account! If not, later you may deeply regret it. You may need to pass on this one–remember–time is on YOUR side. It’s pay on this end of the deal or pay later. Paying on the front end of the deal to get a better car can be less of a headache. Paying later (when repairing rust, etc.) may cost more than had you purchased a nicer vehicle–plus all of the aggravation of the repairs! jay
I have a 1967 convertible in all original condition… Love.her.. I.want to believe she.is.original paint?.How do I tell?
Hello, Pynki…I suggest that you send some photos to firstname.lastname@example.org Eric and I can view the photos to hopefully help you to assess your Convertible. We’ll do our best. We’d like to see photos of the spare tire well–remove the spare tire and take photos behind where the tire would have sat. Let us see a couple of photos under the front fenders. And send a couple of the engine compartment. It would also help to see photos of the dash and of the interior. Let’s start with these to see if we can discover anything for you. Meanwhile–enjoy you “new love”! jay
I’m trying to sell a 1967 Volkswagen bettle in very good conditions
Hi, I own a ’67 bug , a daily driver not stock, dropped, Porsche wheels, Recaro seats & lots of Gene Berg parts, fast little car, it gets lots of thumbs up. Cheers.
Richard Guthrie 74. Prostate Cancer. Looking for a long ago memory! Want #1 67 Bug you would be proud of! Bucket list, can you help me? Cell 504 583 6791. Thank you!
I have a 1967 beetle with a salvaged title. The car is in very good condition and I am trying to find out what the value is. Any help would be appreciated.
Hello, Rudy…Please send photos to email@example.com Eric and I will view the photos and attempt to steer you in the right direction on pricing. We’d need to see photos of the interior, dash, full front end of the car, full back end of the car, engine compartment-engine, inside the trunk area, the underside of the car and any other photos which you can take. There are many facets to take into consideration and these photos will help. jay
I have a 67 baja. Ragtop sunroof. I have all the electric with new harness.. but not installed. Engine is sounds what is it worth
Hello, Kaylee…There is no method for ascertaining the value of this vehicle because it conforms to no standard. The rag pull-back sunroof is an add-on to the vehicle. Baja-ing the car hopefully was a last ditch attempt to save the car after an accident which damaged one or both ends. I suggest going to thesamba.com to do a search for ’67 Bajas in similar condition. Be ready to haggle over the price unless the car has something special to offer (such as the sun roof). The fact that the car needs work (is a project car) means that you will need to contend with a thousand other project cars. But, you picked the right time of the year for selling this vehicle. Give it your best shot with plenty of good photos. I wish you the best. jay
Agree w/ Jay, It’s almost impossible to put a value; especially because it’s not a stock car. Once you get into modifications such as this, it becomes more what a buyer is “willing to pay” if it’s the car they want. We are here to help. Good luck.
I have a VW1300 Model 1967 .Everything on it is genuine,as I spend a lot of money replacing every part which is not in perfect condition.
Of course it runs nicely and since I’m getting old I plan to sell it in the near future. It is my first car and I never tried to let it down,and it never let me down.
I ordered from Belgium the best parts I could find.The genuine front bumper cost me 380 euros.The car is in Athens Greece and we rarely see snow. in my town.Of course I never disregard to find a way to stop rust especially in bottom parts of the car.Its my passion and people stop when I drive this car downtown. I must say that we don’t have humidity. and that is something which preserves it a lot.My question is how much does it worth today.I intend to select the person who will be interested in buying it. You must be fond of this kind of vehicle.Many pictures will be available on demand
I have a 2956 bug in my garage it has set for 30 yrs able to start need lot of work
Hello, Lonzetta…Thank you for contacting 1967beetle.com. I think that you mean that you have a 1956 Beetle. I could not discern whether or not you want to know its value or if you want to sell it. If you want to try to place a value upon the car, I suggest that you go to thesamba.com Under Classifieds, you can look at all 1956 Beetles and compare those cars with yours. If you are wanting to sell the car, I suggest that you contact Chris Vallone @: firstname.lastname@example.org Chris runs a restoration company and might be interested in purchasing your car. I hope that this helps. jay
To anyone out there. I’m looking at a 67 beetle being offered by a gentleman up in Jacksonville Beach, Florida. That’s about 120 miles from where I live near Cocoa Beach. I live in Satellite Beach specifically. It’s listed on AutoTrader for $10,000 – says it’s a daily driver and that he is the second owner. States has been garage kept most of it’s life. Granted I realize I would have to inspect it but it does seem in very good condition for being a daily driver. Is $10,000 too much for a level 3 or 4 as it’s described in these articles? Thank you
Hello, John…thanks for contacting 1967beetle.com! Rather than to discuss price at this point, let’s talk about inspecting this vehicle. Check all 3 VINs–beneath the back seat, behind the spare tire and on the Title. Be sure that the two VINs on the car itself have not been altered in any way. These days, too many cars are being pieced together and VINs altered. Now–let’s turn to rust–Florida is well-known for rust issues. I’d have this vehicle inspected as closely as the seller will allow. Get a professional to help you–if you aren’t sure that you are qualified. The car should be placed on a lift. Inspect for rust. Inspect for rust repairs. A good inspector also can test for paint thickness–to determine if the car has body fillers. Once the car passes the rust and rust-repair inspection, then go to the rest of the car to determine if it is authentic. A $10K car would need to be in really decent condition–running, driving and stopping and operational in every aspect with no issues. From a distance, it is difficult for us to determine the authenticity of the car and its condition. We can, however, critique the car for what we can see in the photos. So, as Amanda says–please send photos to Eric: email@example.com jay salser
I just went to AZ. To pick up my 67 w/sunroof that i sold 10 years ago. The guy that bought it put it in storage and then he never got to it before he passed away. I first bought it is 1989 and owned it for 22 years. I was the 2nd owner and now i am also the 4th.
I envy you, Robin! My wife and I often wish that we could find and own-again some of the VW s which we have sold over the years. If you have not written Your Story for 1967beetle.com, please consider doing so. Get with Eric Shoemaker and he can guide you through the easy process. jay
Hi I have a question! My mom wants to sell her 67 beetle.. it was running ok last year, but this year we have not started it yet. My parents have put some work in it for the past 20 years but its definitely not in A1 condition. My father wanted to sell it for 5800, but I think thats rediculous. Any idea how much she should sell it? I don’t know if I can attach pictures here..
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