Looking through my parts shelves, I ran across a couple of 1967 Beetle SWF 12 Volt Wiper Motors (VW Part# 111-955-113). Not knowing if they were viable, I put them on my work bench for future testing. 1967 SWF Wiper Motors are a one-year-only part—the last with the small 5mm Eccentric Shaft and the first of the 12 Volt Motors. Thus, they are valuable to us ’67 Beetle Owners.
Finally, I got a chance to test them. While testing one, the positive wire got hot. Hummm—not good. I put that one aside with a note attached. Maybe the old Grease was so hardened that the Armature just could not turn the Gears.
The second Motor tested good. I decided to draw a Diagram, while I was at it, to remind me which connectors were for what function.
To test, I used two test leads with clips on the ends (color of the leads doesn’t matter for this test. I used two colors to keep the wires separated). I attached the red lead clip to the 53 Spade. Using a black second lead, I clipped one end to the negative battery terminal. Now, I held the red lead clip to the positive battery terminal and touched the black lead clip to the Body of the Motor. I had movement—slow movement. This, I determined, was the Slow Speed. ’67-12 volt Motors have Slow and Fast Speeds—contrasted with earlier Motors which have only one speed (usually quite slow—if you have driven a 6 volt VW).
I clipped the red lead to 53b and repeated the above process. Fast Speed. Then, I repeated the process, clipping the red lead to 53a. Happily, I was between positions of the Wipers and the Motor ran to Park.
When testing a Motor out of the car as I was doing, do not use Terminal 31b. This is the Ground to the Switch. If you test using 31b—you’ll get a spark for sure.
The Body of the Motor is indicated by 31 on the Terminal Pad of the Motor—with NO Terminal. So you can touch the negative lead to anywhere on the Body of the Motor to get Ground.
I decided to service this Motor for my private Inventory of 1967 Parts—as a spare. (Have we talked about spare parts?)
First, I cleaned the exterior of the Motor. I used what’s commonly called paint thinner. It’s not highly combustible—but I do this cleaning outdoors. I don’t want to incur damage by breathing the vapors of this or any other solvent. I also use nitrile gloves to prevent absorption of this and all other solvents.
With the hardened grease deposits removed, I pulled the Bail over the Cap, or Top, of the Motor. The Rubber Sleeve at the center of the Bail still is good on this Motor, fortunately. More about this later when we discuss what to do when the Rubber Sleeve ISN’T good.
More cleaning to the inside of the Cap and some blow-drying and I turned to 4-ought steel wool for removing oxidation and superficial scratches from the aluminum. I really got after it—the result was a shining example. But, I wanted to do just a bit more. I donned nitrile gloves again, fetched the Mother’s Mag and Aluminum Cleaner and set to work on the Cap, using an old rag. After probably 20 minutes of rubbing, I had a Cap which was going to look really good on my serviced Wiper Motor! I used a terry cloth towel to remove residual Mother’s.
Now, I was ready to open the Gear Case in order to view the Gears and old Grease. I removed the 4 Screws. Gently prying with a small flat-bladed screw driver, I lifted the Case Cover. Now, I was able to view the old, discolored and hardened Gear Grease.
Using a small flat-bladed screw driver, and anything else I could find to do the job, I began to remove the old Grease from the Gear Box. This took a while to accomplish. After removing most of the Grease, I used pieces of paper towel and a screw driver to clean the recess well. With a pick, I cleaned the old Grease from the protruding Worm Gear at the Gear End of the Armature.
I repeated the process with the Gear Cover and its two Gears. The large Gear has a recess. Inside the recess you can see a shiny Washer. This Washer usually won’t come out on its own until the old Grease has been removed. Be careful not to lose this Washer! When most of the Grease had been removed, I washed the Gear Case Cover and both gears using paint thinner and a tooth brush.
The Large Gear is metal. I again used the pick to clean each Tooth on the Large Gear.
Since the Armature can be turned with ease, I am not going to remove it. This would involve tying back the three Brushes so that they do not pop out once the Armature Bracket has been removed and the Armature has been pulled from its position. In the past, I have had to remove the Armature due to hardened grease deposits on its lower shaft—which impeded movement. But, we’ll save that for another chapter down the road.
All cleaned and time to install the White Lithium Grease. I packed the Gear Chamber. Then I applied grease to the Teeth of each Gear to be sure that they would be ready to go once the Gear Case was sealed.
Once all was greased, I installed a new Gasket. I make my own Gaskets. I installed the Gasket onto the Cover Plate because the Cover Plate Locator Pins help to hold it in place during the installation of the Cover Plate onto the Wiper Motor.
I positioned the Small Gear—the Grease helps to hold it into position. Then, I placed the Cover with its Gears onto the Gear Case and worked the Cover with its Gears down into the Gear Case. Once things were well situated, I started the 4 Screws and began tightening them. I worked to tighten them evenly—working around the Cover Plate—until all 4 were tight. I turned the Wiper Arm and the Gears were meshing well. Next thing will be to put current to the Motor to see how good a job I did.
Well…not quite the next thing! First, I had to fit the Rubber Seal around the edge of the Motor Base and push the Cap onto it. The old Rubber Seal (111-955-119) hardens with age. I cleaned mine using a rubber rejuvenating product. This returned some of the supple nature to the rubber. Then, I carefully stretched the hardened rubber, tweaking it here and there. After some tedious work, the Seal fit and I installed the Cap and Bail.
If you cannot get the Seal to fit or if it is unusable, check with Eric at Lane Russell for a new one.
Another part to deal with is the Rubber Sleeve on the top of the Bail. This is a part which no one reproduces, to my knowledge. If yours is damaged beyond use, you can substitute by using Wire Shrink Wrap. This can be purchased at electronic stores. Take the Bail with you to test which size will best work for you. Once you have the Shrink Wrap, install a length of it onto the Bail, situated appropriately. Use a hair dryer to heat and shrink the Wrap. I have done this with some success. If you have access to scrap Wiper Motors, maybe you can find a viable original piece from one of them.
I cleaned each of the Brass Terminals so that they will give optimum contact. To further Polish the Spade Terminals, I used a product called Wenol Red Polish and a Q-tip. Beth Leverman put me onto Wenol a while back. Thanks, Beth!
If you do not want to service the Wiper Motor on your Beetle or, perhaps, there is damage which cannot be repaired without certain tools or parts, you can contact “The Wiper Guy”—Don West. Don is THE Wiper contact who can care for any Wiper problem you might have.
My thanks to both my wife and our daughter for photographing and videoing different aspects for this Article. What would I do without them?!
Thank you, David Brown—for helping with VW Part Numbers and a discussion of Wiper Motor Types!