SOLD — L456 Ruby Red ’67 Beetle Sunroof


Hello, ’67 Beetle community. You might have noticed that things here have been a bit quiet. My Grandpa hasn’t been feeling well; another story for another time.

Fresh to the market here at, we have a really nice L456 Ruby Red ’67 Beetle for sale. I love seeing a stock vintage VW. We all know these gems are going up in value each year. Here’s the info we have from the seller. Please reach out to him with any questions. Let’s help this ’67 Beetle find the new home it deserves. Did I mention that this ’67 is a sunroof?!

1967 Volkswagen Beetle Classic Sunroof Sedan from Fresno California in 2010. Ruby Red with off white leatherette basket-weave interior and door panels. Headliner in excellent condition. Original 1500cc single port engine s/n # H5348568. Car runs and drives excellent with no smoke or noises. Paint is very nice, was painted around 2009 and was driven very sparingly sine then. Pictures do not do this car justice looks much nicer in person. Car has new wide white radial tires all around. Since I have owned this car I have replaced the interior seat covers and door panels with correct basket weave material, headliner was previously done when painted. Windows have been upgraded: front-ventless style, rear pop-outs. I am moving and reluctantly must sell this car.

Status: SOLD
Mileage: 34,279
Location: Grand Island, NY
Price: Bidding on eBay
Contact: Bidding on eBay


Posted by Eric Shoemaker

Hello, I'm Eric. I started Air-Cooled Artifacts (previously, and Lane Russell). I drive a '67 Beetle daily and love to share vintage Volkswagen stories with the world.

  1. Sweet little car at a fair price. If the new buyer is going to use that Black CA plate, he/she needs to scrape off that 1968 sticker. The YOM (Year of Manufacture) program only allows one sticker on the plate and in this case the 1967 is the one to keep. GLWS.

  2. How could some body figure a fair price on a 1961vw beetle new paint,wheels,and tires .it runs and drives however the interior needs to be reapulsterd original radio and dash whats a realistic price

    1. Hello, Anthony. It is difficult to say what is a “fair” price. It’s all in the hands of the buyer. Do comparative shopping. For ex. go to and look at same year, similar condition Beetles.
      Chart a good number of them–then try to find an average selling price. The better the car, the higher the price–even though we’d all like to pay less for better. These days, the prices are going up and up. What used to be a good price for a ’61 a few years ago doesn’t even compute today. So, do your comparative homework. Those who try for a cheap price often find themselves with a pretty looking car but beneath the shiny paint–a lot of work and expense to be done. Pay up front now for better or pay more down the road for lesser quality. Remember–the price of repairs and restoration will be significantly higher “tomorrow”. jay

  3. Where do I start? This vehicle was purchased and transported sight unseen from WNY to North Louisiana. The owner asked me to look it over because it was smelling up his garage and there was gas, oil and other fluids under the car dripping onto his garage floor. The person that “restored ” this car in Fresno CA should be shot. The car is now in my garage and I am fixing the hundreds of things that are wrong and unsafe. I do not know where to start except that every rubber hose on the car is 50 years old. It will not hold brake fluid, it will not hold gasoline. The engine and transmission are leaking also. The brake hoses from the reservoir to the master cylinder crumbled in my fingers. The seals at the master cylinder are Brazilian junk. The original fuel line was capped off and a new line installed on the inside of the interior, under the carpet. The rubber fuel hose was 50 years old and fuel had been leaking into the car, under the carpet. The rubber fuel lines in the engine compartment were too large and crumbled also. The fresh air hoses crumbled and were not even hooked up. The carb heat hoses go thru the breast shield and are attached to nothing. The gas cap seal, dry rotted, The tank sender seal, non existent. The gas gauge wire was epoxied at the end and glued to the sender unit. The back up light ( only one ) does not work. The flashers and turn signals did not work. The shifter coupler under the back seat was the original and was broken into 3 pieces. The after market console was screwed into the tunnel and just missed the new fuel line by a millimeter. One piece windows don’t seal, passenger window handle on the floor, no pin. Passenger door check, missing in action.Sunroof opens but scratches the paint when opened. Driver side hood gap at least 2 inches, passenger side OK. Front fenders are aftermarket, as are the rear. Car was hit hard front and rear . Paint job is filled with dust and orange peel. I could go on and on. The car is unsafe to drive. Please, if you are going to buy a car online, go and look at it first, drive it, get under it, check everything.

    1. Hello, John…I am sorry to hear about this car’s condition. The main thing to remember about used car sales is that the Seller WILL “puff” its condition. I always recommend a personal inspection of a vehicle. If this is not possible, for 2-3 hundred dollars one can hire an Agency which will send an Inspector to view the car for a thorough inspection and an actual drive. Following the inspection, the prospective Buyer will be issued a detailed report on paper (or by electronic mail) of the car’s condition. The beginning of such an inspection will involve looking at the VIN–including the title, the spare tire-well tag and the stamped VIN beneath the rear seat bottom. If those are not in order–the inspection should go no further. The prospective Buyer should run! Next–it is appropriate to learn what sort of warranty is proposed by the Seller. If there is no warranty–know that such a sale is “As Is” with no warranty implied–period. Since you purchased this car through eBay–you should have some recourse to negotiate a settlement with the Seller. Did you investigate that angle? jay

      1. This is not my car. I am helping the new owner. He purchased it thru Ebay for his 16 year old son to drive. I am working on it to make it safe to drive. I don’t think the owner in WNY knew anything about this. I have a feeling that it sat in his garage a lot and was driven very sparingly in the summer months. He must have purchased it from the dealer in Fresno, CA. I am not a professional VW mechanic, but I have worked on my own Beetles since 1974 when I purchased my first 1969 Beetle. Presently I own a very nice 1967 Beetle and am the only person in my area that still understands and works on these wonderful cars. They really like this car and they don’t want to take any actions against the seller. I don’t think they understand the seriousness of all the issues I have found. Either the original restorer was out to make a quick buck, or they had no clue on how to restore a Beetle. I have a large stash of parts that I have collected over the years and will try my best to get it fixed, and driveable and able to pass state inspection. I did notice that Chris Vallone has a video that states running the fuel line inside the car is an option now, as opposed to running it in the shifter tunnell. I just don’t know how I feel about that.
        You are correct about a full inspection of a vehicle before purchase. I do not believe in a purchase without a test drive and a hands on inspection. Digital cameras hide a lot imperfections. You have a great site here. Keep up the good work!

  4. The 67 is back in the hands of the new owners. It is now safe to drive and will easily pass inspection. A lot of work, only about $200 in parts and they have a nice daily driver now. Please inspect a car before you purchase it. Digital photographs hide lots of things. Look it over, drive it, inspect every crack and crevice. This is a great website!

    1. Great to hear!

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