Not a week goes by without someone emailing about the ’67s unique one year only parts. Below is the list of items we are aware of. Over time, we will be adding photos to help illustrate each item. Would you like to contribute a photo to help our efforts? Please email.
What’s different about the ’67 Beetle?
This information applies only to Beetles destined for import into the Continental USA.
The 1967 model of the Beetle Sedan (non Convertible) heralded several changes. Most of these changes are subtle and go unnoticed. I will attempt to point out those of which I am aware. A lot of the changes continued to be incorporated into later years as well.
First and foremost was the change from 6 volts to 12 volts. This is the most talked-about change and resulted in a significant, new direction for the Beetle both in physical capability (of the car) and in popularity. Note: silver 12 volt sticker on driver’s door hinge pillar.
1967 Pre-heat Tin Set
Seat Belt Hook: One year only.
B Pillar Seat Belt Bolt: With nylon Insert.
Horn: One year only.
Front fenders: change from covered headlights to open sealed beam headlamps with no parking light inside the headlight housing. The front parking light was incorporated into the top-of-the-fender-mounted turn signal housing. This particular fender was used only for the ‘67 year cars. A new type of headlamp ring began to be used.
Reverse or back-up lamps: A switch was installed on the transmission so that when the car was placed into reverse, rear bumper-mounted lamps lighted. This was a one-year-only lamp since in ‘68 and later years the reverse lamps were incorporated into the taillight housing.
Front seat knob: About mid-year, ‘67 models were fitted with a knob on the side of the seatback rather than the previously used handle at the seat base.
Radio knobs: During the manufacturing year, rubber knobs began to be used. This was a new trend to accede to US “soft dash” standards. All ‘67 Beetles came equipped with rubber knobs for the emergency signal and headlight and wiper switches but the rubber radio knobs appeared during the production year.
Sapphire V: A one-year-only Sapphire V radio, AM only, with the antenna now mounted at the driver’s side just shy of the windshield.
12 V: 12 volt two-speed wiper motor.
Seat belts: One-year-only seat belts. These belts mounted on the B pillar and could be latched into place when not in use. The belt was housed in a sheath that pivoted downward beside the driver or front passenger so that the belt could be pulled from its sheath, over the person’s lap and the snap end clamped to a tunnel-mounted, chromed bracket. I am told that the belts were dealer-installed since USA requirements for mandatory seatbelts did not occur until 1968.
The black box: A “black box” under the hood now housed major electrical components. Sometimes the box was other colors, I have seen blue and aluminum as well as black. This box, I am told, persisted for years ’67 and ’68.
Window cranks: The knobs were a one-year-only black plastic and highly unreliable. The plastic backs split at the weak point and became useless.
Decklid and rear apron: The apron was changed. This one-year-only apron now featured a latch hole that had a rubber seal to prevent road dust and moisture from entering the engine compartment. The new latch was a low-profile bar secured by two bolts used only in that application. The decklid was changed to conform to the new apron. On the decklid was the new script which read “VOLKSWAGEN”.
Rear bumper over-riders: A one-year-only design that shortened the middle legs to give added clearance to the newly designed decklid.
Body, running board trim and hood trim: This was a new slimmed design that set the trend for all succeeding Beetles. This necessitated smaller holes in the body and hood with redesigned plastic trim clips and new trim clips for the running boards.
Exterior rearview mirror: A one-year-only redesigned ovoid (pear-shaped) style.
Engine: 1500cc displacement of about 53 Hp. That began the “H” series engine case to run for 3 years.
Oil bath air cleaner: Greatly enlarged with dual air-intake. The size increase mirrored the larger engine displacement. The size and weight of this one-year-only air cleaner/breather necessitated a one-year-only stabilizing bracket that mounted on the front manifold bolt and held the airbreather firmly in position. The dual intakes also necessitated a small diameter paper hose on either side that dropped through small holes in the one-year-only breastplate. Beneath the breastplate were right and left deflector plates, each with a hole. Behind each of these plates was mounted a tube, mounted to the exhaust stud on either side of the engine. The breather hoses dropped through the breastplate, passed through the holes in the deflector plates and mounted over the metal stabilizing tubes.
Pilot jet valve: An “anti-dieseling” device was added to the generator side of the carburetor. This was an electro-magnetic valve that closed the gas supply as soon as the ignition switch was shut off.
Regulator: The regulator was placed beneath the rear seat.
Axle tube: A lengthened one-year-only axle and axle tube was used on the ‘67 models. The axle tube continued through the 1968 production year (however, axles for ‘68 models had longer splines).
Transmission: A one-year-only transmission with a 4.125 gear ratio. This transmission remained the Beetle tranny through ‘72 ½ when the ratio was changed to 3.88 with the advent of the “single-side-plate” transmission.
Brake cylinder: Dual master brake cylinder with two brake-light switches and a one-year-only brake fluid reservoir. There were two metal tubes between the master cylinder and the brake fluid reservoir for this year only.
Door handles: One-year-only exterior door handles, doorlock pulls (buttons), mounted on the door frame, and new, recessed interior door pulls as opposed to the former interior door handle locking capability. (formerly up to open and down to lock)
Fuses: Expanded fuse panel from 8 to 10 fuses.
Ash tray: Redesigned without a knob but with a “dimple” at the bottom edge for pulling the tray with the fingers.
- 180 mm to 200 mm wide clutch.
- New oil breather/filler unit with water condensation tube.
- New cooling fan inner and outer cover plates to hold the new 105mm diameter generator.
- New crank pulley and shroud plate.
- Mid-year change from smooth type to Type III annular groove oil pressure relief piston.
- Mid-year change to pinch-type hose clamps on the fuel pump and carburetor inlet.
- Mid-year strengthening of crankcase near oil pump mounting.
- Mid-year introduction of 8mm oil pump mounting studs/holes replacing 6mm.
- Mid-year change to crankshaft adding oil pockets and “X” drillings.
- New rubber seals added to the front and rear portion of each rear seat kick-panel.
- Revised left and right quarter panels introduced; quickly replaced with revised types.
- Revised left and right rear cross members introduced.
- New left and right roof support members introduced.
- Re-designed firewall compartment panel in front of engine introduced to make room for 1500cc engine.
- Revised lower firewall plate and front engine cover plate weatherstrip.
- New sedan and sunroof deluxe model roof stampings.
- Elongated hole now cut in left side cowl at corner of windshield for optional retractable antenna, sealed with aluminum cap and black packing.
- New double-sided “K” profile lock cylinders and ignition locks.
- New cloud white vinyl headliner section with black dots surrounding back window.
- Rear luggage compartment carpet replaced with pvc lining along with left and right wheel house linings.
- New door and rear quarter panels introduced.
- Driver’s door armrest now standard.
- New passenger door armrest.
- Door and quarter panel interior moldings removed.
- New leatherette seat upholstery with smooth backs and sides; faces received perforated basket-weave covering the entire area, instead of center portions only; now seven heat pleats.
- Mid-year new cloud-white rear seat grab handle straps.
- Mid-year new cloud-white visors.
- Mid-year slightly larger rear view mirror introduced.
- Mid-year new left and right door hinges installed.
- Mid-year new center defroster vent under dashboard.
- Mid-year new front passenger grab handle with different mounting angle.
- Mid-year new rear seats installed.
- Headlamp switch and wiper switch swapped locations.
- New main wire harness, left and right front section wire harness.
- New starter/battery positive cable.
- Two Bosch distributors available; condensers were not shared.
- One VW distributor available; it had unique points, rotor, cap, condenser, vacuum advance.
- Mid-year new clutch pedal with 25mm offset to left of brake pedal (short lived).
- Mid-year new brake pedal/master cylinder clevis rod introduced.
- Mid-year old style clutch pedal returned, but with new stop bracket to limit pedal travel.
- Mid-year right tie rod inner clamp nut and bolt deleted.
- Mid-year changes to brake line diameters and routing up front.
- New transaxle casing and differential unit; rear axle, ring and pinion.
- Gear-set, and 3rd gear ratio changes; new gearshift fork housing nose cone; new reverse gear shaft.
- Mid-year changes to first/second gear shift mechanism, increasing shift travel; new reverse gear.
- New rear axle shafts, wheel bearing housings and covers.
- New rear axle shaft nuts; torqued to 217 ft/lbs.
- Side rear torsion bars narrowed from 22mm to 21 mm.
- New equalizer spring mounted on inner and outer supports with rubber bushing between each.
- New side levers and hardware introduced to work with narrowed torsion bars.
- Side radius arm/spring plate support inclination angle change to 20 deg/30 min from 17 deg/30 min.
- New rear shock absorbers.
I now have my third 67 Beetle. The first was flipped by a “friend”. The second was in such bad shape (rust) that I looked for a third, and scavenged what parts I needed from the second. Unfortunately, it has no engine, but the body is in decent shape, though the interior is quite sad. I’m just getting started on it by stripping the interior, and hoping to keep it as stock as possible, except for engine and paint. I guess you could call my plan a semi-resto-custom. Being on the East Coast, resources are slim. Your site will be something I intend to follow. Thanks for being here.
Thanks for the comment. Let me know if I can do anything to help!
Hello from Sweden,
…my search for this question has not found the answer that I am looking for so I’m hoping you can help…
…I am looking at a buying 67 right but have noticed the headlamps are different from all the 67’s you have images of here…was there two different headlamp options for the 67 beetle?
…thanks for you time…love the site!
Yes, all US spec ’67 Beetles have the same headlights. The ’67 was the first year of the front sloping. I believe some ’67 Beetles that were not produced for the US had ’66 headlights. I’ve seen that a few times.
Hi, just recently purchased a 67 and am curious about rear seatbelts. The guy that we bought it from said there were holes drilled for them. Would this have been stock? Will I ever find belts for that year? I see some on eBay for 68-71, wondering if those are the closest I’ll get. Thanks in advance for any info you can give me.
Thanks for writing! Yes, all ’67 Beetles had homes drilled in the rear for belts. Seat belts back then were a dealership option if you can believe that.
Hi, iv recently bought my 67 beetle, i need a rear window and cant seem to find one anywhere, im from the uk so this maybe harder, thanks!
I think TheSamba would be your best bet. Or, there has to be a shop somewhere in your town? Are you looking for German?
Welcome to the ’67 world! Lane Russell is by far the best in terms of high German quality. You have to keep in mind that EMPI is not what it was 20 years ago. I generally stay away from their products. I suggest trying to buy NOS when possible. I’d love to see some photos of your ’67. Let me know if you’d like to be featured.
i have a 67 beetle and need to install a new door latch they say a 68 can be modified to work .I installed it but the latch button seems to be rubbing against something in the door preventing it from easy movement is there something in the door I have to remove, like maybe that metal guard .
Give this article a read. There’s a video too, and it might help you out.
Great site. Have owned a 67 vert for about 20 years and it has evolved over that time to Cal look, Porsche wheeled cruiser. Great car with non stock 1600 single port which looks right to the untrained eye. Even more differences for this vehicle. Decklid, door handles, etc. My web page image. Parked for a year but just waiting for spring! Enjoyed reading.
Thank you for reading!
Eric, I’ve never heard that 67 rear fenders were oyo, only the fronts. What’s different about them?
You’re right! Only the front were. Still, German rear bumpers are getting hard to find. I have a pile of fronts sitting in my garage; just waiting.
OG Fronts. What are you waiting for? I wish you lived closer, I’d take em off your hands! Thanks for the response.
I have 2 sets of OG, German front fenders. I’m a bit of a ’67 Beetle hoarder. I also have lots of NOS stuff. Sapphire V radio w/ safety knobs, Pierburg fuel pumps. It’s a sickness, to which there is no cure.
Remember, Eric, Wally2 is looking to replace his fuel pump. I don’t see them on Lane Russell; can you e-mail me the specifics, please.
I just emailed you.
I’m looking for a Sapphire V radio for my 67, if you have any ideas please let me know!!
PS. I’ll reply to your email soon.
I did not see the interior door latches on the list. These were also one year only, right? The later 68-on interior chrome door latches where more rounded, where as the 67’s had a pointed edge on one side. I could be wrong.
I believe only the window winder was one year only, not the latches.
I have a ’67 that I bought in 1970 when in high school. A friend is currently doing a restoration on it (see Samba thread Larry’s 67). Years ago I but shoulder belts in it but would go back to the lap belts when we put it together. I have (pretty sure) the original driver side belt but can’t find the other one. Do you by chance have a passenger side lap belt?
I don’t. However, they are around in theSamba or VW swaps. Let me know if I can help more.
Also… Jay Salser may have one. He writes articles with us.
I have a set of left and right Lobster Claw seat lap belts in black. Also the Horseshoe chrome latch for the hump. My 67 is Baja converted and I will be installing three point modern belts for safety.
Let us know if you need any help!
Ref: my ’67 Baja….I am un-bajaing it. Lowered back to original ride front and rear, looking for a rear deck lid and full front hood which I think will lay over the Baja nose chop. Looking far and wide and long for a rear seat frame. Where do they go? Most of the old Baja jobs are turning into Volksrods. I am going halfway there with a street rod look. Good source for brake differences is Milo Manx. Lots of details on shoe widths and adjuster screws with and without slanted slots.
Do You still have these factory seat belts and how much? Thanks
Do You still have the factory seat belts and how much? Thanks!
Michael, do you still have the lobster claw seat belts that you took out of your 67? If so, would you be willing to sell them. The belt on the left side of mine doesn’t retract anymore.
I kept my “Lobster Claw” drivers side belt. I use a regular seat belt with a buckle for my passenger side as most of my passengers didn’t like the “Claw.”
Of all the 67 parts, I’ve found that quality seatbelts are the hardest parts to find. Check the Samba often. Occasionally they appear. Good luck.
Becky, Just because the seat belt does not retract does not mean it is broken. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned nicely. Sometimes they are just stuck on the roller and can be easily fixed by bending back the clip that rubs against the belt. However, if the spring on it is truly broken it usually breaks at the end that attaches to its little groove that holds it in place and stops it from spinning. You can, with difficulty rebend the end of the spring and reinsert it into the groove and rewind it and it will now be as good as new. You must keep pressure on the spring at all times when putting it back. It is not easy as it wants to spring back , but I have done it twice with the same spring. I have recently got two extra driver side seat belts as I can use them for parts. The passenger side spring will not work on the drivers side belt as it is reversed. Interstate Volkswagen in Lake Elsinore, California has 2 boxes of these seat belts if you want to call him. His name is Jim and he has alot of 67 parts. The drivers side ones are getting scarce as nobody wants to repair them and instead they get a used one and throw the old one away. If you plan on keeping your bug then always get spares before they are gone, gone, gone.
Bruce, after removing both seat belts I found that the drivers side was completely missing the spring and the passenger side spring is a little loose. Can you give me the contact info for Jim at Interstate Volkswagen?
Becky- Sorry that this blog takes forever to get to you but here goes: Interstate Volkswagen is in Lake Elsinore, California (southern cal) and Jim can be reached at 1-760-736-8515. Hope this helps. Sometimes owning a 67 bug is tough due to the scarcity of parts. Let me know if you have the right carburetor and distributor for your car. If you want to keep it original then these are the year correct for your bug. Look them up on the 67 only site. Take care.
Had same problem with both belts in my 67. I was able to get mine working though, it was a rather easy fix once I got into it. Inside there’s a spring steel rub plate that rides against the rolled belt. I just bent that to add more tension. Carefull pulling that black plastic spring cover off, be prepared to catch the spring, it will unwind and must be rewound to fit back under this cap
I know this is old, but just in cases the info is useful. I am trying to slowly start and fix up my 67 bug after owning it for 28 years. The passenger side seat belt was also not retracting. To fix it you just need to take it off the car and unscrew the 4 little screws that holds it together. Then clean the belt in hot water and soap. Put a clamp on it and let it dry all out and long. Once dry it will work again. I just did that, and tightened the spring by turning the plastic it’s in clockwise a few turns. I also put a little wd40 in the joints. It works as good as new now.
Hello, Dana…thanks for the useful information. These belts have become very scarce. A lot
of people are having to purchase anything they can find now. Knowing how to restore them is imperative–your information is very helpful! Keep up the good work! jay
Hi guys, I have a 67 deluxe and live in the UK. Mine has sloping front headlights, disc brakes and was six volt as standard. I have converted it to 12 volt which is the sensible option in the UK with our weather although we are in a heatwave at the moment. I bought the car in 1982, took it off the road in 1983 and mothballed it my garage. Come 2010, my son comes of the age to drive, we bolted it back together and he runs it as his daily driver and we go to shows all over the UK. It’s ratty and low but very cool. Really enjoy the site. Cherrs, Pete
Thanks for the comment! Enjoy the site.
Just to give some more details : 67 beetles where available in several versions, but 3 are to retain: sparkäfer, 1300, 1500 and export. The sparkäfer, had a 1200cc engine and very basic outfit. The 1300cc had 5 lug wheels and drum brakes and is the most common 67 in Europe. The 1500cc had 4 lug wheels and front disc brakes. Some had 12v like mine. The export version had bumper overriders and in the US, 1500cc engines with 5 lug wheels. The export versions where specific to meet foreign regulations.
Other versions available where the police versions, etc… But that’s another story.
Hi! my 67 beetle was hit today while parked. Dented the decklid and cracked the overhang for the license plate (which cracked). Wondering what my options are for fixing the decklid, since it is OYO and especially since the overhand (where the license plate light is located) is cracked — it appears to be metal which is odd that it cracked.
It can be fixed for sure. You’d be amazed at how German metal can be re-worked. Where are you located? I can recommend a body shop.
Hello, Julie…and thank you for responding to 1967Beetle.com!
Julie…the “over-hanging” part to which you refer is often called the License Plate Light Housing. You can easily find one of these in good condition that will need only to be cleaned and repainted to match your car. I have some of these at your disposal, if you wish.
This part is of some metal other than steel–what we used to call “pot metal”–an alloy of some sort. Check this Link to get an idea of such metal: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal
If you car was covered by one of the collector car insurance companies, consult them, first, for their recommendations of how to proceed with the repairs to your car. In any case, I hope that you have significant insurance on your vintage Beetle!
If your insurer cannot suggest a good shop in your area, ask around to find an auto body shop which is highly recommended. Don’t go for the el cheepo! It doesn’t have to be a Volkswagen repair shop–but it does need to be a good body shop that won’t just slap bondo on your decklid and paint over it.
If the decklid cannot successfully be repaired, all is NOT lost. There are still good original decklids out there. I saw a really good one this past Saturday at a swap meet–it was priced at $80. I was sorely tempted to purchase it, even though I don’t need one presently. One never knows when the odd collision might happen–as in your case.
Stay in touch and let us know how things go for you.
jay salser in texas
Hi Eric, is the door mechanism inside the door a one-year only part?
i am having difficulties with mine, First off, I cannot unlock the car with a key, but I can lock it.
Then the mechanism inside the door isn’t always springing back when you open a door.
Yes, I do believe the whole set up is. Have you looked on TheSamba? I’ll let Jay or M chime in on this as well.
Good morning, Matt, and thank you for contacting 1967Beetle.com!
Check the following Link for rebuilding door-lock mechanisms. It was submitted by one of our readers:
Let us know if this helps. It seems straight-forward enough. I have not had to rebuild my handles–yet.
Sometimes a build-up of grease contributes to “slow action” of the mechanism. Cleaning, then lubricating with the proper type of lubricant, may solve the problem. Otherwise, Marius Strom’s rebuild instructions are good.
Great site. Buying my first vw beetle convert. 67 Gone from 65 911 to alot of fun. Thanks in advance for all the info. BOb Ebert.
Hello, Bob…So, you are joining the Gang! Good deal! if you haven’t had a Convertible before, be sure to do some eye-balling before the purchase. Convertibles have structural assemblies to stiffen the body in lieu of the roof. Check beneath the running boards for the square-tubular frame to be sure that it is intact. If not, you are in for some heavy duty body-off restoration and some big bucks. If the pans (floors) are rusted, chances are that the support frames are rusted as well. If the rest of the car is sound and the buy-in price is right, a Convertible, restored, can be worth the effort. Convertibles are rising quickly in value. Keep us posted on your purchase. This could make a nice featured article on 1967Beetle.com! jay
Jay , thanks for the reply back. Looking forward to having a vw. You are wright,look before you leap. I have a friend who has a vw resto. shop. Vw are alot less costly to buy than Porsche. Enjoyed my 65 911 but now I am moving on. The 67 has an older resto. still looks good . $8000.oo Thanks Bob
I have a German 67 am from Peru, my car comes with front oval headlights ie those corresponding to model 66 less, my question is if only for usa changed the design of the headlights or sudamercia also changed that, according to the previous owners the car came to them with these oval headlights. thank you very much
My partner and I will do some research. More soon.
Hello, From Texas, USA, Juan!
Your comment is well-taken. You will note that the article which appears on 1967Beetle.com details changes made to the Beetle for year 1967 for the USA consumption only. We do not have a detailed and reliable document for those 1967 Beetles destined for other countries (markets). Obviously there are some great differences from country to country.
Thank you for reporting on your car. Do know of its origin? Is it from Mexico or from Germany, for instance? Thanks for reading 1967Beetle.com!
Hello from Singapore!
We have the Euro styled front headlights, US type bumpers, 1300cc “F” engines and RHD on our 67s.
Years ago, I had a very basic resource page that went defunct after geocities was shut. Here is the archive though:
Anyway, I wanted to thank you for creating this page. It’s a great reference!
I have a question about the running gear on a 67 beetle. I replaced the passenger side rear bearing due to noise (was told by previous owner it was needed and did hear a noise), and found the entire inner part of the drum soaked with what I believe is transmission fluid, The bearing cap had a weep hole, but the backing plate did not have a matching hole. I proceeded to drill the backing plate to allow the fluid to drain, but I am concernedthat the drum itself may be incorrect. What did the 67 come with as original equipment, was it a swing arm or IRS? If it was a swing arm, did it drain on the backing plate or did it use a slinger/washer to direct the fluid out the side of the drum? I plan to remove the other rear wheel to confirm what is there and ensure they match, but also want to make sure the drums are correct for the application. I read somewhere that the drums came in different sizes and I’m not sure if they are interchangeable.
Let me do some research for you. The smoke signals are out. More soon.
Hello, Gabriel…Let’s talk, first, about the ’67 running gear. The ’67 still had what people call “swing axle” with the axle housed in a tube. The bearing plate held a captive “slinger” to disperse transmission fluid should it get past the seal. The seal fitted on the inside of the bearing cover (as contrasted to ’64 and earlier seals which pressed into the bearing cover from the outside). The axle was called “the long axle” and is unique to the ’67 Beetle (although the ’68 Beetle axle is of the same length, the threaded portion is distinct from the threaded portion on the ’67 axle). The bearing cover for ’67 is (I believe) unique to ’67 (although ’65-’66 also had the similar bearing cover with the captive oil slinger washer, the covers do not interchange necessarily). The weep hole in the ’67 bearing cover should correspond to a hole through the backing plate. You did the right thing by drilling the hole. It seems a little far-fetched that someone would use a ’64 and earlier backing plate, but apparently that’s the case. Perhaps there was damage and the earlier plate was handy. Who can say why people do what they do to these cars! (the ’64 and earlier cars can be fitted with the later bearing covers with the slinger washer but a hole must be drilled through the backing plate–as you did.) I cannot imagine that anyone installed an earlier axle on your car. If they did, they would have done so on both sides so that the wheels would be equally placed. Your idea of checking the opposite side to see what is there is excellent! It’s good to become intimately acquainted with one’s car! Let us know what you find, please. I’m not sure what you have read about incorrect drums. If you are thinking about the ’64 and earlier drums–yes, they did come with a strange oil slinger set-up which, thankfully, VW resolved for year 1965. Those drums are no longer available except in salvage yards. They would have been turned so many times that they would be of no value now. The majority of the older VW owners have had to resort to using later systems. Although, I have a friend who owns a nicely restored ’57 Beetle which has all of the original correct oil slinger system. He is fortunate to have that, since it is about impossible to find the original equipment. Let’s hear what you find. jay
need front seats for my 67 bug also the car is higher on one side by 2 to 3 inches
Have you checked TheSamba for the seats? Also, the ’67 has a taller stance in the front by default.
Hello VWs, just got a 67 that’s rusted out, doesn’t run and thinking of making it a project rebuild. How much is it going to cost me? Really?
I live by the beach in Cali, where the freeway ends.
Who knows the hook up here?
Rust is never good. This is a bit of a loaded question, as it all depends on what you want to do. Jay?
Since converting my 66 to 12 V. I am wondering if the 67 emergency flasher switch will fit. Right now all I have is the switch but no lightbulb or red knob with the 88 on it, as the sun and heat made the Original one so brittle it fell apart in my hands. Does it still have two prongs in the back of the switch for connections like the 1966 bug? Thank you.
Let me research this. More soon.
Hello, Robin…thank you for contacting 1967beetle.com. Yes…the ’67 Hazard Switch looks essentially like the one for ’66. You can interchange them. I do not know if you can buy 12 volt bulbs for the switches. You can install a ’67 Hazard switch into the ’66 Bug dash hole for that purpose. Unfortunately, you must buy the entire ’67 switch with knob–the ’67 knob assembly will not interchange with the ’66 switch knob. The shaft sizes are distinct. See this Link: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1658813 jay
My wife’s father bought his in November of 1966 (I have the original sales sheet). He gave it to my wife about 5 years ago and I have since had it painted (original pearl white, it’s original color) new rubber seals everywhere and re-carpeted it. Looks like it is new off the show room floor. He owned in Southern California and kept in the garage, so it was in great shape to being with. the only thing I would like to change is the front seats (I’ll keep the original ones but they are not very comfortable). I would like a high back version but can’t find any, got clues for me?
Have you tried TheSamba? That would be your best bet. That or a local VW show.
Hello, Bob…Do I understand correctly that you’d like to keep some version of VW Beetle seat–but you want them to be high backs?
Maybe I should ask this another way–what is it about the seats in your ’67 that is uncomfortable. The short seat back (lack of a head rest), or the seat itself–being uncomfortable?
If it is the seats themselves–you can have them re-padded using foam rather than “horse hair” padding. There are formed foam pads available for the purpose.
If it is the lack of head support, but you’re okay with the way the seats feel otherwise, I recommend using the 1970 Beetle front seats. The seat rails on the ’70 Bug seats will fit right onto the rails of the ’67 by putting a simple notch into the front cross-piece of the ’67 seat rail structure. If you go this way, you will immediately see what I mean. You can use a regular flat file turned on edge to do the job of putting the notch there so that the ’70 seats will slide right onto the ’67 rails. The head rests on the ’70 seats are narrow and do not impede vision to the rear as do the ’68 and ’69 seat backs.
(don’t let anyone sell you ’71-’72 seats–the rails of those seats are very different. Then, of course, from ’73 onward, the seats changed entirely)
Let me know if I missed the point completely. There are various non-VW seats which can be purchased and installed into Beetles. Some bolt to the floor, etc. You’d want to get a type that would not disturb the original seat ’67 rails.
You bet–keep those original front seats. The price on them is going up as we write! And, availability is diminishing.
Eric recommends http://www.thesamba.com That would be the best place to look. Try to find something locally–shipping seats can be expensive. Use your ingenuity when doing the search: bug seats/seats/front seats/etc.
This is a picture of an unassembled1966 VW’s components. Does a picture exist of a 1967 VW like this one? I would LOVE to have a poster-sized copy of either one. Any leads where I could get one? Thanks, Don Barker
Replying to Don Barker about VW poster. In a similar vein, many years back, mid 1980’s or thereabouts I bought a poster from John Muir publications (of CompleteIdiotBooksFame) of a VW broken down into a myriad of pieces with a fellow staring at it with a rather perplexed look on his face. My son colored it, I still have it someplace. Don’t know if it was 1967 or just generic Beetle, but it was a superb example. I looked about just now for John Muir, seems they may have been sold to another entity
Commet referencing Seat Belts following: ” I am told that the belts were dealer-installed since USA requirements for mandatory seatbelts did not occur until 1968″. The seat belts were a Factory Option not Dealer, the vehicles came from Germany with the seat belts installed under Special Options Code M27 (Lap belt reel fixture from Chassis Number 117 000 001 through 117 999 000) for USA and Canada.
My 67 Beetle came with four warning lights. Three come on when you turn the key to first notch. When engine starts one of the lights stays on. I have figured out which one is the low oil pressure, it flicks at low idle. The one that does not come on when key is turned appears to be the lights on. What are the other two?
Is your ’67 US spec?
Hello, Russ…Thanks for commenting. It would be good to see a photo of your speedometer. This definitely is an unusual speedometer–at least for the Deluxe version which came to the USA. The “normal” US Import Deluxe should have 3 bulbs at the bottom of the speedo–the center one flashes when the turn signal switch is activated but does not come on when the key is switched to the “ON” ignition position. Both the Generator light (red) and the oil pressure light (green) come on when the key is turned to the “ON” position but should quickly go off when the car is started. The only other “warning” light is for the high beam and activates when the high beam lever is pulled on.
There should be no other “warning” bulbs. I wonder if you don’t have a later speedometer. Is there a space at the top of the speedo for a gas gauge? BTW–if your oil warning light is flickering, you should investigate to see if your idle is set too low or if the engine is low on oil or (forbid the thought) you have a worn engine and it is not lubricating properly. This may spell engine failure soon. Have this investigated right away. Try to send a photo of the speedometer in your car. jay
Anyone have an extra mounting bracket for the front seatbelts? Mine has two rights and not a left. Or vise versa… Will check theSamba too. Thanks!
Let us check!
Thanks! It’s the one to the far left: http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/354178.jpg
Sure! Jay might have one…
Daniel…Jay here…can you send a photo of the two that you have so that I can compare with what I have? I have two of one of those but without knowing which is which, I cannot make a bonafide decision. jay
Thanks Jay and sorry for the slow response. Got some pics last night for you. The brackets are correct for the drivers side. Can you send me your email? I can’t figure out how to post a pic…. :-/
Just sent them to Eric!
Happy to help! The sever is a bit slow today.
Hi. Stumbled across this site in looking for parts. I knew pretty much nothing about VWs but have wanted one for years. I knew the look of what I wanted which narrowed it down to pre-68. I knew I didnt want a Super because of the fat looks and I didnt like the idea of the McPherson struts and their wobble. When I was younger I thought Super was the way to go because they were like Super Sports, I found out later I was wrong ha.
I purchased a 1967 this weekend, I didnt know they were OYO bugs. Mine is Lotus White and pretty much factory with the exception of the rims 1986 El Camino rims with usage of adapters (gotta go quickly) and the exhaust is some kind of aftermarket which neccessitated removal of the engine apron and the rear apron its like something that would go on a baja, I dont like it and want to purchase a new factory exhaust, In looking for the replacement aprons Im finding 66 and 68 with 67 being skipped. With the exception of those things I want to keep it the same, The floors are clean enough to eat off of. it was a rubber mat car with factory tar paper the only real rust is a hole in front of the rear fender about the size of a quarter. The rest is all surface where the Georgia sun has burnt the paint making it a perfect patina for me. I dont know what to deem it as because its not really a rat rod my buddy says its more of a survivor, not knowing enough about these VWs their has to be a name for them I see them all the time lowered with worn out paint, Any Ideas on what type of VW this kind is called and any idea on finding new aprons? Thanks Rob
Hello, Rob…congratulations on the acquisition of one of the most wonderful years of VW Beetles! For more information on automobile classifications, read from this Link: https://1967beetle.com/restored-original-survivor/ This should give you a better idea about your vehicle. I suggest that for a name…drive the car for a while. Listen to the engine, note its idiosyncrasies and give it a name like “Friendly”, “Rattles” and so forth! LOL If you are not going to restore the Bug, conserve it so that it does not further deteriorate. What we are urging owners to do is to conserve for future owners. These cars are fast becoming scarce! Stay tuned to 1967beetle.com. We love our Readers! jay
hi i am joaquin from chicago i have a 1971 vw sedan in mex i purchased some acsesories here in the usa but did not fit what is the reproduction or conversion usa model or year
Hola, Joaquin…I frequently have persons come to me with their Mexican Beetles looking to buy parts. I sadly shake my head. Mexican Beetles are different. As far as I know, there are no “conversion” parts. You may be able to make things work. The best thing is to leave Mexican Beetles in Mexico. They never have been cleared for registration in the USA because many of the parts do not qualify under USA automotive laws.
There are many parts, as you know, for the German Beetles, including many after-market or reproduction parts. I do not know of anyone reproducing parts for Mexican Beetles.
Some parts may be common, such as brake drums, brake cylinders, etc., etc. and engine components. However, many of the body and interior parts are different.
Got a rust spot in the center of the drivers door and some rust on the bottom of the passengers door(approx.2″ long,at the bottom door edge).your suggestions as to the best remedy to fix.
This is a bit of a loaded question. We would need to see photos, etc. It could simply be some POR 15. However, it could be a lot more.
Hello, Gary. thanks for stopping by today at 1967beetle.com! As Eric says, this is a complicated issue. First, I want to say something about the cause of rust from the inside of the door: Two causes come to me right away and there could be more to it than what I am about to say–bad (faulty and old) window scrapers. When the scrapers get old and break…they allow more than normal moisture course down the window and onto the inside of the door skin. This moisture gets behind the sound deadener which is glued to the inside door skin. It stays wet (just like moisture beneath the sound deadener on the pans). So, keeping sound window scrapers is very important. You see a rust spot in the middle of a door–that’s what caused it. For the bottom of the door, we have to blame dirt, leaves, etc. debris which sit in the door tray and hold moisture–again the moisture is coming from excessive moisture coursing down the glass due to the degraded scrapers. So that needs to be taken care of.
To cure the rust–if you see the rust on the outside, it probably is coming straight through as I describe above. The best “cure” is a replacement door. If you can find a decent door, switch doors. It will be a better fix in the long run and possibly cheaper. If you don’t find a door, my body shop friend tells me that usually this is a job for a professional. Several ways to fix the rust. A cheap fix–Cut it out to clean edges–best to cut a regularly shaped hole. A piece of metal just slightly smaller than the hole can be cut, then butt-welded into the hole using a MIG welder. Weld on both sides to secure the filler piece of metal. Afterwards, the outer welds will need to be ground smooth and skim filler used. I’m making this sound more simple than it is–for lack of space, you understand. Could also weld a larger-than-the-cut-hole to the inside of the door for strength (?). Cannot use a gas welder–that causes too much heat and will really burn and warp the metal. Armed with this information–I encourage you to find a quality body shop and show them the car. Any quality body shop can do this type of work to a VW. You don’t need to try to locate a VW shop to do this work. In fact, I recommend that you not do that since most VW shops are not set up to do body work. This is my best answer for the hole in the center of the door. As for the rusted part on the bottom edge–again, this is best left to the professionals. jay
Good Morning Eric,,,,I really had a good time reading all your comments,I just bought a pretty nice 1967 I would like to send you a picture
I need help with seats and radio for my 67, it has the original radio and wondering if anyone restores them? I can hear a hum but that’s all,then the seats,oh wow,found the original labels but can’t seem to get the right horsehair and covers to work together,all in all it seams to have everything original
Hello, Jackie…Welcome to the Great ’67 Beetle Community! Before we talk about restoration of the radio–have you checked the speaker to see if it is sound. It may be that the speaker has deteriorated. Then, check the antenna lead to the radio to be sure that it is in good condition and is plugged into the radio. Next…try extending the antenna–depending upon your area, perhaps there is not a radio station close by? If all fails, get back to us and we can suggest a restorer. Seats: Do you plan to refurbish the seats yourself or to have a shop to do them. Quality shops can be a great help with obtaining padding and cover material. They can cut their own covers. If you are going to do the seats yourself, check with lanerussell.com personnel. Someone will be glad to assist you with which covers go with your car (model) and color, as well as padding, hog rings and tool, etc. Let us know how this goes! jay
Thank you so much for the quick respond! I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions
Hi Guys. I have a restored 1967 but the doors have now reached their end after daily use and obviously the lifelong neglect of proper draining. Besides the door handle mechanisms, is there any other difference. Which model’s doors will fit? Can the handles be fitted to those doors?
Hello, Pieter…You have asked a question which may be difficult for any of us in the USA to answer. The ’67 Beetles imported into the USA were the Deluxe Model. Your Model may be much different. I will try to answer you on the basis of a Deluxe Model only. Doors from later models (USA Deluxe Models) will function. However, the wing (vent) windows are distinctive, the arm rest is distinctive and the locking mechanism and exterior handle are distinct. Also, the exterior mirror screws into the door itself (does not attach to the hinge). Have you looked into having the door bottoms repaired? (if that is the rusted portion). You will be unable to use the ’67 door handles on later model doors since the locking mechanism and handles for those models are distinctive. I would look into a quality body shop which may be able to resurrect the doors. I wish you the best! I wish that I could be more conclusive and helpful. jay
Thank you for this wonderful article.
I have searched far and wide on the internet for a left front quarter panel for my kid modified (read damaged) 67 Deluxe for the last month and half.
I’m on my third 67 and by far it’s in the worst shape. The others had little rust or PO damage.
My question is – is the 67 front quarter panel unique to the 67 other than the smaller trim clip holes?
If not, what are other years that will fit if I were to weld closed the trim holes and re-drill them to the correct 67 size?
Any input would be gratefully appreciated.
Hello, Perry…You should be able to use clipped panels back to at least 1962, if not farther back. Depending upon what part of the Country you live in–contact VW salvage yards for your front quarter panel. In Arkansas, try Way Out Salvage, for instance (www.wayoutsalvage.com/). Contact me for possible locations in your area. You don’t have to purchase a complete car. Usually there are wrecked vehicles from which parts can be salvaged. You will need to be able to give the salvage yard the correct dimensions which you will need–usually somewhat larger than the actual area needed. jay
Jay – Thank you for the quick response. I was figuring that you would have the answer to my query when I posted my question. I live in the Pacific NW.
I have read many of your responses to inquiries that others have posted here. Always the kind and with gentle encouragement for the 67 owner. You Sir are a true champion of 67 knowledge. I knew I could depend on your far reaching knowledge. Thank you so much.I can breath a little easier.
Perry … if you’re on Facebook, try joining these groups PNW dub-Folks (PdF) and PNW Aircooled Swapmeet for additional sources for the parts you need. Someone is always doing something and like the 1967Beetle.com guys, they are so very willing to help.
Donna – Thanks for the FB tip. I don’t social network by choice. I plan to attend the PDX speedway swap meet this coming summer for a parts search. You know! All those little parts that only can be found at a swap meet, Like seat belts, sun visors, seats, fenders, front hoods, bumpers and on and on. Ah da@m all the money that a 67 lover needs to spend for his baby. Mine will be a resurrection not a restoration (so I say now). Have a great weekend.
Perry: Not knowing where you are or how far you wish to travel, the May 30th “Bug-In” in Woodburn, Oregon put on by the Portland Volksters has a really decent swap meet. The one at PIR around the 1st of August is also pretty good and both have a variety of cars (although I have yet to see a ’67 convertible at either). If you want more info about swap meets in Bellevue and Seattle, contact Eric or Jay privately they can give you my e-mail.
Gear Shift Knob: To maintain the originality of the gearshift knob for1967 Standard Transmission beetles, only one color is correct, Grey black. Yes, the same part number 113 711 141 A that was utilized since around 1955 with one small exception, they were color code 466 Silver Beige. From August 1966 through July 1967 Model Year 1967 color code 043 Grey Black for standard trannie Beetles, one year only. Exceptions yes: The special options code M5 Saxomat Transmission equipped 1967 used color code 466 Silver Beige. There are still more one year only parts
One Year Only: Armrests by color code from August 1966 through July 1967 Model Year 1967. Color code 181 Gazelle Light, Color code 138 Waterblue 66, Color code 752 Indian Red. These were for Models 113, 114, 117, 118, 151 and 152. It requires some deeper searching to determine exactly which vehicle body color and interior combinations these worked with. Yes, 1968 had Dark Gazelle 68 but it is a different color and color code 190. Same for Indian Red 68, Color code 173. Part Numbered 114 867 171 A Left and 113 867 171 D right. The Color Code is the defining moment for one year only. There are still more one year only parts/color combinations!
Hello, Quinn…You have had your head in the “books” again, I see. Good information on the GearShiftKnobs (above) and the Arm Rests. This is progress! Thanks for digging into this for the Worldwide 1967 Community! jay
Such good info!
Hi Eric- I too have a 67 Beetle that my grandfather bought new. It is ruby red and originally had cloth seats. Can’t find the material anywhere tho. I do have the original dealer key tag. If anyone finds a source of cloth seat material feel free to email me. Thanks. Pat (Carsavior at MSN dot com)
I have a 1967 with a possible bent driver side shock tower. Can i replace with any beam as long as its full because of the different tie rod ends?
Hello, Rob…thanks for contacting 1967beetle.com! I am uncertain what you mean by “full” when you are speaking of replacing the front beam. You can use a beam which is for 1966 or later Beetle (not a SuperBeetle). Front beams can be purchased new or rebuilt devoid of any other parts. Or, if you find a good used beam, you can remove any and all parts and use the parts from your present ’67 Beetle. ’67 was the last year with the small outer tie rod ends. You can keep your spindles, brake assemblies and drums and tie rod set up from your ’67. I hope that this helps. jay
Need some bits for my 67′ 1500 beetle , text 07871948845 .
This site has been an inspiration to me as a new 1967 Beetle owner :~). My partner has been into Beetles for about 40 years and always went for 1966 or earlier but is getting really into the 1967 Bug now. We are in the Uk and have been to a few shows were we’ve grabbed parts at Autojumbles and the hunt for more original ’67 parts goes on. Currently he’s fitting the decklid and skirt and we are getting ’67 doors from someone next week. I’m totally hooked and love the fact that this year has so many one year only parts. thanks for a great site and loads of info.
Hello, Mel…Since ’67 Beetles differ from country to country, your journey likely will take you places where we, in the United States, will not have opportunity to explore. Your discoveries will help the World-wide 1967 Beetle Community to grasp t he over-all concept of our beloved vehicles. Keep up the good work and let 1967beetle.com hear from you! jay
HELLO GUYS,I THINK I ALLREADY POST THIS BUT JUST IN CASE I JUST BOUGHT A 1967 BEETLE JAVA GREEN AND I WILL LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IS THE INTERIOR COLOR ON THAT PARTICULAR COLOR SOME PATRS ARE WHITE OR SO AND SOME OTHER PARTS LIKE THE SEATS ARE BLACK,CAN U TELL ME,AND I AM LOOKING FOR SOME PARTS,LIOKE THE MIDLE SEAT BELT AND SO ON,,REGARDS
Eddie this link from “The Samba” will help
Eric, I know we’ve chatted about a few of these things before, but it would be good to start documenting more of the mid-year changes as they pop up. One that jumps out right away is the rear bumper, as mine is a very early production ’67 from before the redesign. Other small things, such as the outside mirror. My Bug has a round mirror instead of the pear-shaped one, and to the best of my knowledge and available documentation that hasn’t been replaced. Just some thoughts, as I know I have been thrown off in the past by things that weren’t on my car, when I later realized they were just changes made during the year.
Yes, good feedback. I had pushed this article back up so we all could open up the conversation again. Also, mirrors were a dealership add on. There really is no “right or wrong.”
Awesome! That makes sense about the mirrors. I had tried to look up information in the past, but there wasn’t a lot available.
I did the research on that one awhile back. Ron over at WW gave me the literature about it. Also, we do stock both mirrors, if needed.
Hello, rkade93…thank you for commenting. We have a really good definitive Article on the issue of the Bumper Over Riders. See this Link: https://1967beetle.com/67-beetle-rear-bumpers/ In addition, we have treated a number of other aspects of changes during the year. It’s somewhat cumbersome, but read through the Comments in the One Year Only Changes Article (to which you are commenting) and you will find some good answers to many of the “mid-year” changes. When you come across some definitive answer to one of these nagging change questions, please give input. We depend upon Readers to submit this valuable information. jay
That article about the bumper overriders was very, very helpful. It was actually published within days of me discovering that I didn’t have the 1967 piece on my own bug. My only point was that it might be good to actually update the list with these mid-year changes and findings, since the list itself is what people, especially those new to the community, will look to first! The more we can document those discrepancies in the list, the more it can become the end-all, be-all for 1967 Beetle enthusiasts everywhere.
The information on outside mirrors is correct-whatever the dealer had on hand. However, And, one could wonder about the “whatever” had on hand. Early Parts Manual with page supplemented June 1961 shows outside mirror part number 113 887 513 A for door hinge mount for models 113, 117 and 151 along with associated mounting parts-for LeftHandDrive. 114 857 113 A for RightHandDrive. One could purchase each part individually. Fast forward to later Parts Manual with supplement dated January 1967 the same part number and image is still around. Additionally In this listing the part number has an asterisk in front of it (Meaning the mirror was available Also in a SP spare parts kit). The SP kit part number was 113 898 121 which consisted of the aforementioned mirror part number and 113 857 517 A (union nut) and 111 857 519 (tapered locking sleeve). This kit could be purchased-also it was often Service Installed by VW. I should think that is how many new dealer sold VW’s came to have the pear shaped mirrors. My 67 came with the small pear shaped left side mirror back in 1966-I do think that 113 857 513 A is the small pear shaped mirror. The Only mirror listed in the parts list is 113 857 513 A. No round mirrors listed! The parts lists/manuals are correct, as the sometimes quoted ex VW employees used the same manuals. It does appear that when the hole is dug deep enough that Volkswagen indeed sanctioned a certain mirror, no matter how many round mirrors dealers themselves placed on the vehicles!
The one year only list states that in mid year the interior mirror size was increased. I have never noticed a difference. The Parts Manual states that part number 113 857 511 A was used from Chassis Number 115 000 001 through 117 999 000 for models 111, 113, 115, 117 and for 1968 for models 111, 115. For 1968 models 113, 117 the number changed to 113 857 511 H. There are still one year only items, and changes made that aren’t listed.
Good info, Quinn.
Hello, Quinn…Very valuable information, Sir! Thank you for the research. I agree with you about the small “pear-shaped” mirrors–from my Texas experience. Of my acquaintance with ’67 Beetles, the vast majority have had that mirror. In my mind, the round mirror never has been “correct” simply due to my observations (which doesn’t make my view-point valid, of course). I’ve also see the reference which you note about the larger interior rear view mirror. As per your experience, I haven’t see any difference. Maybe a lot of this has with geographical distribution and supply? We’ll probably never know! LOL Thanks again. jay
I ❤️my 67!!!!
Good info, but confusing sometimes ….the use of ‘one year only’ I mean. Does it really apply, for example, when it is stated that 1967 transmission was ‘one year only, but used up to 1972’ ? What does this really mean???
You make a very good and valid point! Maybe some statement such as:One Year Only AND Changes Beginning With Year 1967. Thank you for commenting! jay
I have a 67 bug, actually my wife owned it before we got together back in 1989, her dad gave it to her before he passed. In 1990 I decided to to take it apart and restore it, but that didn’t happen, to make a long story short, we had kids and the bug sat for 25 years. Within the last 4 months I’ve gotten the itch to finish what I started. I took inventory of what I have, and I’m happy to say that I saved mostly all the parts I took off and they are all original equipment, from the bumpers to the original engine. It needs work but nothing that can’t be fixed. I’m actually excited to restore this bug for my wife, she has no clue on how it’s going to look. It’s been a sore subject for the past 20 years because I dismantled a perfectly running bug, lol, I was young and had big plans with no money!
We are here for you!
Hello, Big Mario…I understand your situation. Stay with 1967beetle.com as you rebuild that ’67 Beetle! Hopefully you will be successful. If so, your car will be a miracle car. Here’s why. Nearly 100% of cars in situations such as yours NEVER get completed. They end up at the recycle place or, worse, at the dump. Here are the 3 key elements which go towards doing a restoration: Time, Money and Space. Having only Time and Money won’t do it. Or Money and Space. Etc, etc. This is the reason that there are so many “project” Bugs on thesamba and Craigslist, for example. A Beetle can be completely disassembled in a couple of days. Restoring that car takes a lot of money space and labor. I look forward to seeing your completed car. Meanwhile–let us know of your progress! jay
Jay, thanks for the advice! I would love to do a total restoration, but like you said it takes a lot of money to complete. My plans are to get it painted, re-chrome the original bumpers, replace all the exterior rubbers with new ones and redo the interior. The dash is in excellent shape with the original color and pieces, I might just leave as is, also all the wiring under the hood is intact, I might just leave it alone as well. I don’t want to take it all apart (which is easy to do) and later on run out of money, time and space only to have the bug in pieces and unfinished. A total restoration would be the way to go, but I have to draw the line somewhere and settle for a partial restoration. The most important thing for me is to see my wife happy and for her to drive the bug her dad gave her some 27 years ago before he passed, that to me is going to be the greatest feeling in the world!
Big Mario…I like your plan. A good plan helps to keep us on track. Keep all of us Readers out here informed of your progress! I love to hear that yet another ’67 Bug is being put right and back onto the roadways! And…making the wife happy, of course! That’s uber important! jay
just picked up my first air cooled. a 67. its about 85%-90% done i guess. minor things right now. it has a lot of custom work. Eric i will probably have tons of questions for you shortly.
I also have a 67, it is my 2nd the first 67 was the car I bought in high school. 1973. This bug is modified, but the problem i am having is with the pillar post upholstery. Any advice on securing thanks
Hello, George…The B pillar securing tabs can be real pills! I have a VW friend who is having the same problem. He operates a fabrication shop and there seems to be nothing he cannot do but this thing is bugging him, literally. I’m sure that eventually he will get this problem dominated. I suggest that if you cannot work this out, rather than to damage the windlaces/upholstery, that you take the car to an upholstery shop. I bet that they can help you for a nominal fee. jay
[* WordPress Simple Firewall plugin marked this comment as “trash”. Reason: Failed GASP Bot Filter Test (checkbox) *]
Hi, my 1967 vw bug passenger side footrest, kick panel is missing. Do you know if that is a one year only part and where I could get a new one or good used original one? If it is not a one year only part, do you know what years fit with that part? Thanks for responding, Judy
[* WordPress Simple Firewall plugin marked this comment as “trash”. Reason: Failed GASP Bot Filter Test (checkbox) *]
Hi, my name is Joel. I found a 67 but it needs a lot of work. The man wants $300 for it. Even if it is in bad condition, do you think it would be worth restoring?
[* WordPress Simple Firewall plugin marked this comment as “trash”. Reason: Failed GASP Bot Filter Test (checkbox) *]
I have a 67 bug that I bought in 1974 for 700 bucks. The radio did not work so I shoved a coat hanger into the hole and wow, I had a nice sounding radio. I am now trying to get it back into original parts, fenders and the like to pass on to my son if he wants it. It came with a flow through ventilation system with a vent on each side of the front firewall and a plastic vent flow cover to regulate the amount of air coming in on your feet. It is hooked up by plastic hard pipe to the front fender horn covers on each side. Works nice but never seen it on any bug since. The originalowner said he did not put it in but the dealer did. Ever hear of this one?
Bought my 67 about three years ago, was restored but sat for about seven years. Had to change distributed but that was all. Love it!
Yeah!!!!! We like to hear this.
Although my “Engine Story” isn’t for a ’67 Beetle…it goes to show just how resilient these engines can be. I spotted a VW in our neighborhood sitting in a driveway. Eventually the owner moved it into his garage where it sat for the next 21 years. I approached the owner once or twice yearly with an offer–which he, with a little smile, would refuse politely. Then, to my great surprise, one day he accepted my offer! I rushed the car home where I cleaned and set the points and installed a good rotor. I cleaned the spark plugs and put a small amount of automatic transmission fluid into each spark plug hole to lubricate the dry rings. I gently turned the engine by hand, using the generator pulley. Then, I installed the plugs. Using a used battery which I purchased for the purpose, I intended to start that engine. I set someone to turn the key while I poured a small quantity of gasoline into the open carburetor. The engine roared to life and didn’t even smoke! Ferdinand Porsche proved himself once more–he indeed had built The Peoples’ Car! Now, Lamar…drive and enjoy your wonderful ’67 Beetle! Thank you for reminding us of how resilient they are! jay
So I am going to look at a 67 on Monday. Great info, thanks!
Keep us posted! Sorry for the delay, I’ve been out of town.
so, does a 67 front seat fit in a 68 and vise versa? how about the rear seat. Mine was built in August 67, does that make it a 68?
Hello, Ruzter…Look at the VIN stamping on the tunnel beneath the rear seat of your Beetle. If the car is a 1967 Beetle, the VIN will begin with 117-xxx-xxx. If the car is a 1968 Beetle, the VIN will begin with 118-xxx-xxx.
Usually by August of a given year, the new year’s model would be put onto the market. In other words, by August, 1967, the 1968 Models would be on sale at Dealerships. But…check your VIN to make certain of your car’s provenance. jay
thanks Jay, it is a 68 then. the local wrecker has what’s left of a 68 and a 67 then.
Rutzer…I forgot to comment about the seats: For 1968, the Beetle front seats were high-backed–contrasting with the low-backed seats of the ’67 Bug. The ’67 seats will fit onto the ’68 rails but there has to be a slight alteration in order to fit them. The back seats of the ’68 are a bit different, as well. jay
thanks, good to know.. i have no seats but found one 67 passenger and half the back seat…
I’ve finally found my restoration candidate. It’s already had all the bad metal replaced with new metal and it’s had a body-off primer spray. I want to do a complete original restoration and have a few questions.
1. In researching the numbers, the chassis was from Aug 1966, but the motor 1500 was from Nov. 1966. Will that be a major issue, and if so, how much will it hurt the value?
2. The original colors were Lotus white paint with black weave interior. If I do a complete inside and out spray with a different 1967 spec. color/interior combination, will that be an issue, since there are no paint codes associated with the VIN number, etc?
Hello, Mike…The difference in the Serial-Date on the engine prob. isn’t going to bother anyone..unless you were doing a Concours Restoration. For a Concours Restoration EVERYTHING would have to be perfectly stock. We haven’t arrived at Concours status, yet, for vintage VWs. There are no judges who are qualified to do that sort of judging of VWs. The paint color, on the other hand, could be an issue because it is more “evident”. You say that there is no link between the car and the color. Actually–there is a link. When a person applies for the “Birth Certificate” from Germany, the original color and other specifications will be noted on it. I’m not certain whether the Engine code is on the Birth Certificate or not. While all of this comes down to how it pleases you…there is a certain amount of satisfaction when a vintage car is returned to its originality. The original color was so noted on a factory sticker behind the spare tire. (see LaneRussell for reproduction Paint Code Decals). Enjoy your car, Mike! You want to be able to drive it…right? jay
Mike & Jay — The “Zertifikat” for Wally2 dated 11/4/13 states, along with color, build date, optional equipment and factory info … “Motor/Engine: H 44 DIN PS, 1.5 Liter”. The cover letter states that “for data protection reasons the engine number cannot be listed along side the VIN …” but Stiftung could confirm that the engine number I provided with the order was the original engine. Hope this helps — dlf.
Hey Eric, Jay, thanks again for this great site. I revisit this particular list often. Was wondering, would the 67 door lock release knobs be a OYO part? Have only seen this design on 67s. It is cylindrical rather than flat on the top bit. Thanks!
Hello, Ken…To my knowledge, the door lock release (or to engage) pull-push “button” is one year only. Since many cannot find examples to install onto their cars, they are using the ’68 and later “buttons”.
There was a company that reproduced exactly the ’67 only ones but I cannot get ahold of them any longer. They were identical! The ones which came on cars from the factory were two variations but upon casual observation were identical. Somewhere I must have recorded the differences but right now I cannot lay hands on that bit of information. Prob. were from two suppliers to the factory at the time. Thanks for asking, Ken. Have a great 2016 and keep enjoying your Beetle! jay
What’s up guys? I just recently purchased a 1967 convertible, trying to find a 67 and vented deck lid? Any thoughts?
Hello, Brandon…Maybe someone on this Site will have a ’67 Convertible Decklid–it’s a one-year-only lid, of course. Place a Wanted Ad on thesamba.com, as well. A nice one can be quite costly due to the rarity. Maybe someone will begin to make them in fiber glass one of these days. jay
Brandon- that decklid is very rare and it will be difficult to find one. We used to put them on 67 sedans as they looked cool and were rare 30 years ago. Try calling Interstate Parts in Lake Elsinore, Cal. He might help!
Brandon..if you cannot find a real ’67 ‘Vert Decklid–you can buy a regular ’67 Lid and have a quality body shop to cut and weld in louvers from a late beetle decklid. That’s the cheapest route Next, but more expensive, is to have a fiberglass or carbon-fiber decklid fabricated. This prob. would cost in the neighborhood of $800 or so. Remember–shipping will cost going on a hundred for a decklid–usually. I don’t want to sound negative or discouraging–this is realism of the matter. If you’ve read any of my pieces you will note that I always advise against buying incomplete Volkswagens. Buying parts, especially for the ‘Verts, can be ultra expensive. It is not for the faint of heart. Check this Samba ad: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1826515 jay
All NOS sheetmetal that I have seen for 1967 was gray primer, including the part right below the deck lid-the rear apron. I have never viewed an NOS 67 piece with the earlier reddish primer. That piece appears to be painted. I have viewed that ad several times with the same thoughts, doesn’t look NOS to me.
Brandon..Reader Bob Ebert of Ontario sent the following Link as a possibility–at least until you find a genuine Convertible Decklid: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1529478
Some Historical Perspective: Many folks aren’t aware that the USA/Canada front fenders for 1967 are different in rest of the world. Perhaps 1967 owners will appreciate the following words from Workshop Bulletin No. A-43 August 1966. “All VW Sedans and Convertibles for export to the USA and to Canada are being provided with modified front fenders containing vertically arranged headlamp housings (Part Numbers 113 821 021 A and 113 821 022 H). The sealed beam headlamps of the Type 3 are now being installed on these vehicles”.
“The service installation of these fenders in pairs is only possible in connection with sealed beam headlamps and for countries the traffic regulations of which permit the use of such headlamps. The installation of vertically arranged asymmetric headlamps in the modified fenders is not being contemplated as, for this purpose, it would be necessary to apply for an Individual and Use Certificate in most countries”
Hello, Quinn…I am glad that you have shown this documentation. The strengths of 1967beetle.com are seen in that it publishes the Stories of 1967 Beetles around the World. I have found this Site to be extremely educational to give us a “world-view” of the ’67 Community. jay
Concours and general history: As in all things Volkswagen there is much speculation and misinformation floating around as to when, why, and what concerning the valve settings/stickers. The 1967 Volkswagen came from Germany with the valve setting sticker (Part Number 311 100 175) attached to the fan housing starboard/right side (rear looking forward) with the notation in a rectangle 0.1 MM and underneath that .004″. Not just 1967, but some years into the future, the valve sticker would be .004″ for the following four (4) plus Model years. Volkswagen made the change to .006″ in December 1971. There are several means to verify the change date, some subtle, some big bold and weighted with authority. The first one described here (among others) is the various owner manuals printed until around 1972, all have the valve settings at .004″. After the change was made by Volkswagen Some owners manuals had inserted within them an errata sheet bringing the setting to .006″. The ever so handy to have VW booklets “Without Guesswork type 1, 2, and 3 1971 and 1972″ dated October 1971 has the valve setting at .004”. “Without Guesswork” 1960 through 1970 dated December 1971 has changed it to .006″. Another source: “In Gear” a small newsletter published for use by Volkswagen mechanics by International Auto Sales & Service Inc, the Volkswagen Distributor for Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee issue four-December 30 1971 page 1 “Valve Settings” makes the change from .004″ to .006″ with immediate effect. The main document however that supports the change at that time is/was Volkswagen Workshop Bulletin Change to the “M” manual dated 10 December 1971 (M manual being the Volkswagen engine workshop manual(s) stating: “Effective immediately, valve clearance of all engines manufactured as of November 1964 should be adjusted as follows: Intake and exhaust 0.15MM (.006 in.) with cold engine only” The “M” manuals of course, the printed word from on high that Volkswagen dealer mechanics utilized, previously to being supplemented, all carried the valve settings of .004″ through 1971. Note the word “Should” be adjusted. Hundred of Thousands of engines for years had been using the .004″ settings. Suddenly it isn’t correct! As stated in other entries on this site, Volkswagen mechanics as well as Independent and home maintenance types were sloppy in setting valves. That is not the official word, but from the folks doing the work down through the years oft repeated. For those who strive to have their beloved 67 period correct, there simply is only one correct valve setting sticker; .004″ regardless of the actual setting you may care to use. To my knowledge the repro folks don’t care and don’t/won’t repro the correct sticker, along with many other parts that are incorrectly marketed as correct for 1967 (Rarely: stickers can be found NOS occasionally). When and if, more like when, Volkswagen is judged at Concours events perhaps the judges will be savvy enough to require the correct valve setting sticker-as the present show judges are seemingly blissfully unaware. Period correct history is difficult to change once it has occurred.
High End German radios for 1967 Type 1 (2 & 3): From Volkswagen Workshop Bulletin No E-4 August 1966. “With immediate effect, two new radio sets Wolfsburg and Emden are available as optional extras”. Under M codes 95 & 97: “Wolfsburg set medium wave 519-1640 k/cs, Long Wave 150 190 k/cs”. “Emden Medium wave 519-1640 k/cs, VHF 88-108 m/cs”. Workshop Bulletin No. E of 5 August 1967 (1968 model year) delineates changes made to the two radios for the new model year. Thus it would appear that the two for 1967 would/could also slip into the famous time slot of one year only
Hi there, I have a 1966/1967 crossover (european), which has a blend of specs from each year. (Backstory: I rescued it from the roadside in Madrid 20 years ago … it was dented all over after being used as a bench for pre-match drinks outside Real Madrid´s Bernabeu soccer stadium and the tyres had practically melted after years in the sun. I am the second owner since new) I´m looking to replace the external rubber, and redo the interior, but am not sure which set to get, the 1966 or 1967? perhaps it doesn´t matter? Was trying to upload a couple of pics, but am struggling, … the FB icon will give you an idea. Best regards, Simon
Hello, Simon…You have a unique story, that’s for sure! Refer to the Chassis VIN beneath the rear seat. If you car is a 1966, the VIN should begin with 116-xxx-xxx. If it is a 1967, it will begin with 117-xxx-xxx.
If your car is the “European” 1967, you will need to determine which features the car has which are definitely ’67 Beetle. Without examining the vehicle, it is impossible for us to make such determinations. We do not know the origin of the car. Differences could be the decklid (boot) and rear apron, for example, which would require rubber seals for ’66 and earlier Beetles.
If you can send photos to firstname.lastname@example.org, he will be able to make some determinations for you. If you can move your photographs to your desktop, it will be simple to push them to an e-mail attachment. Until then, we are not able to make those determinations.
Where are you and the car located>
got a complete 67 Volkswagen. been sitting in a barn for 35 years with 98,000 miles here in Michigan. some rust. anyone knows of a buyer?
Send pictures and how much do u want for it
is there any way to fit a pre 1967 like a 1962 or even a 1957 “W” deck lid on a 67′
Finding a one-year-only 1967 wiper switch knob has been an impossible task
Not to mention the one year only and very hard to find, the 1500 hubcaps for the wheels
Hi. Great write up. I’m looking at a ’67 for purchase, but it has sloped lights. I’m in Canada. Is there any way that those could be original or am I looking at something that has been modified?
You’re welcome! It could be both. However, the “Euro” ’67 did come this way. Do you have locking steering?
I’m not certain about the locking steering. I only had a cursory look at it yesterday. Now doing some digging about it so I can look closer. IF it does have locking steering, then what would that mean? I have the vin 117623115. As best as I can tell that means March-April 1967 build dates.
Added this to my registry … VIN #620976 thru 674558 should have an Apr 1-30, 1967 build date. (BTW: The next nearest VIN on my list is also located in Canada). To get the exact date of manufacture, you need to get the certificate as suggested by Jay; good value as it will not only give you the shipping designation, but the original engine # and equipment. Good luck and keep us updated.
Hello, Steve…First…take a sheet of paper and make notes of everything that appears to be different from the USA Deluxe 1967 Beetle. Is it 6 volt? Ignition on steering column? Early front fenders? Decklid script-Volkswagen or 1500? Or, is the engine a 1300? Check the engine code (beneath the generator stand). Are there front disk brakes? Etc., etc. We already know that Canadian imported ’67s differ from the ’67 Deluxe which was imported into the USA. These cars vary by country according to the automotive standards of each country. Or…you may have a ’67 that was designated for a European country but which someone imported privately into Canada. The ultimate proof will be in purchasing the Birth Certificate from Germany. That will tell you without a doubt the market for which this car was destined. See this Link: https://1967beetle.com/birth-certificate/ jay salser
Thanks Jay – also helpful! Car is def 12 volt. has volkwagen emblem. Has 1500 engine (to be confirmed when I look at the stamp). The vin number I have is from the front clip tag. I will need to go back to the seller to look at the chassis stamp… all of the other usual salient 67 details seem on point. However one other point of note was the hi-lo toggle switch for the headlights… just above the ignition key. Not sure if this is “correct” or additional clues to some retrofitting. Any thougthts about that in particular?
The “European” version came with a 6 volt system which probably explains your lights. However, you should have disc brakes which is a nice plus.
It would (could) mean that it’s a Euro ’67. They are close to the US spec ’67 but a bit different. Search “Euro” and you’ll see. We have a few articles on them. Also, you could be dealing with someone that simply switched out the fenders. (Gah)
much appreciated! Will do.
The Canadian version was spot on the U.S version from what I have seen. Except for the question of the slanted over-riders on the back bumper I have seen no differences. (Mine are documented original, cabriolet and are not slanted) My best guess would be a previous owner liked the sloped fenders and adapted them. The toggle switch on the dash would not have been a standard item in any version. This would be a response to a non working paddle switch on the column. Canadians (speaking from experience) can be an eclectic and inventive crew! LOL
On an import note! I have a ’71 Super in the garage that I am just finishing for my dad. (91 years young!) He imported it from Germany in the 80’s. There can be some amazing differences for sure on an “imported car”. This car has a 1300 motor, PICT 30 carb on a dual port manifold, non padded dash, and halogen headlights, all spec for the year! It also has the low bucket seats that are similar to 67 seats but have the seat back switches on the side up high like the later high back buckets. It also has the 67 and earlier parking light assemblies all on stock super beetle (European) front fenders. It is also badged as a VW1302! I always get lots of questions. I have just finished painting the body with fenders off and all of the suspension rebuilt and it sports the wider Volkswagen sport wheels. A neighbour looked at the McPherson strut front suspension and asked me if I raced the car! Apparently he felt the 1302 was some special racing version of a VW that he was not familiar with! Sorry got a little off track there but my 67 with 1500 is much faster even as a single port! Since I lost and subsequently found my coded ignition key, that might also help identify the real year of Steve’s car! Happy motoring.
Thanks to you all for the input – sincerely appreciated! Went and had another look today with more knowledge. Chassis and body matched. Motor was a 1500 just not from production month. Had ’67 front fenders with earlier headlight assemblies. While in body was in fair / shape it was not original paint, had some prev metal patching done. I’ve opted to continue with my newly acquired ’62. The best part about this exercise was that it improved my vw knowledge. THANK YOU all for helping with that. ;).
I am going to look at a 1967 bug here in San Diego tomorrow. I have owned many volkswagens but since maturing I am looking for my forever 67. I have looked at your site and several others to find out about one year only parts and such. I am a high school teacher so I have limited funds and therefor I am looking at the bottom of the line 67s. I was wondering if there are several must find or look at things when looking at a 67? Does the vin # have to be a specific range or number? Motor/Case # etc? Thank you
Hello, Kevin…Let’s try to answer some of your questions. We do not have adequate space for a complete run-down for what you ask, so…please read from this Link, first: https://1967beetle.com/buying-strategy/ You tell us that you have limited funds. Do as I suggest in my article–build a “warchest”–funds with which to buy a nice example. Don’t buy a crummy car and expect to be driving it immediately and cheaply. You will spend more repairing and buying parts than if you wait to buy a better car later. During the time while you are saving your funds, study 1967 Beetles. Ask lots of questions. Study prices for repairs and parts. Educate yourself. If you don’t, you will find yourself having bought something which either will never be pleasing or which is going to cost you a mint after the fact. I think that you don’t need to worry about buying a car in a certain period of the production year. Although there were certain things changed along the way, I think that you will be satisfied with a ’67 from any part of the production year. I want to stress to you and all of the Readers of 1967beetle.com to immediately check the 3 VINs of the car–the Title, the Aluminum Tag in the spare tire well and the one stamped into the Chassis beneath the rear seat. Just the other day a person called me to say that he wants to sell his ’67 Bug. I began the interview by asking him to verify that all 3 VINs were identical. As it turns out, the Chassis is ’66, the spare tire well tag is illegible and the Title VIN is for a ’67 Bug. By verifying the VINs immediately, you can save a lot of time. Walk away if any of the VINs is altered or doesn’t jibe with the others. Inspect the car personally. If you are not mechanically inclined or do not feel up to the job of inspection, hire a Certified ASE Company to do the job. It will cost about $200 dollars but is well-worth the money. Do not buy a vehicle sight-unseen or without having it inspected! And, for goodness sake…if the person has any history (such as a seller on thesamba.com, eBay, etc).–check feedback! Do business carefully. It’s your money–if you spend it unwisely or without educating yourself–you will wear out the seat of your pants from kicking yourself over a bad deal! Keep 1967beetle.com informed of your progress. Eric and others are ready to help along the way. jay
I’m selling my 1967 vert. Very nice car. Let me know if your interested ?
The big question is how much?
Thinking $10,500.. 1835 motor, new interior, real porch wheels.. Very fun and fast..
First of all, thank you for all the great advice. I looked at the 67 today. As I was driving to the house the owner emailed me that he took it out this morning and it has a gas leak and asked if I wanted to still come look. I kept going to see the bug anyway. After looking at your site and things I have learned in my research I noticed some odd things about the car. The head lights had covers over them? I thought the 67 was the first year that didn’t? I found the vin tag in the trunk, it started with 117 but I could not find the stamp under the back seat? I didn’t want to tear the covering because it seemed like it was glued down. I pulled the crank wheel in the motor and there was no play. I shook the front wheels and there was a little play and a knock? Overall the bug was in ok condition. He claimed he was the second owner. He mentioned twice that he was willing to take less because of the fuel leak issue which I kind of expected anyways. The other thing that is a deal breaker for me is a cut dash for a bigger radio. He had a non-stock radio in the car but I could not tell if he cut the dash to get it in? He said it came with it installed when he bought it. He seemed honest and mentioned that he was selling it because his HOA would not allow him to keep a non-operational vehicle at this house.
Here is the link to the 67 I looked at today. I hope that is ok to post?
Kevin, that bug is overpriced. Front lights have been changed and if it leaks fuel it might be a tunnel leak which is not easy to fix! Take it to a bug mechanic for a look! If the owner says no then swallow and move on.
Kevin, Please be careful as these bugs are really overpriced for what you get. Everybody thinks they have a winner in their bug but, believe me, it is usually far from it. Prices in California are over blown especially in so-cal where I live. As a friend of mine who once told me about car restorations, “get your check book out to pay for what you did not see and hold your breath when you find out what it cost now days to fix these cars up”. Most of these bugs are tired and worn out and have modifications and repairs over the years that make them anything but the 67 you really want. If you must, lower your expectations and get what you can knowing that you will have to spend money just to get them right. The number one thing is to get a real 67 and the number two is to see how much, not if, rust is present. All these cars have it no matter what the owner tells you. To repair the rust that is found at the base of the door can be around 500.00 if it is bad. that is just the start. I was at my repair buddys place when a guy came in with a 74 superbug and all he wanted was a paint job and some minor repairs. Just looking at the car from 20 feet away it was obvious that this car was not worth restoring. The owner was upset but my buddy was honest and told him it would be over 10,000for the huge amount of repair that was needed. Believe me, it is a junker. 1967 bugs are neat and cool and all that but you are buying a very old car that was manufactured by the millions and not made to last for 50 years. If you are really into the 67 bug then go and find one that is already restored as best as possible or at least needs very little. You will have to pay top dollar as these owners know what they have and the demand is growing. Most of the 67 trannys are shot and need rebuilding at around 1300.00 easily. A rebuilt motor,done the right way, is another 2500.00. I keep mine since I have had it for years but I know the rust is growing and I know what it costs to repair it plus the paint job that will be needed in the future. I have slowly, mind you slowly, got it back to where the engine was in the beginning and got rid of all of the crap that various repair dudes have taken off over the years and replaced it with good original stuff that should have never been removed in the first place. I also keep plenty of rare spares in a box so I don’t have to crawl around junk yards for some of this stuff. I drive it to work every day for 10 miles of so and I still love the little car when people look at me and wave or give the peace sign. It is what it is. I told my son to keep it when I croak and sell it, along with the parts, to someone who cares and to get what he can for it as I will not care at that point. One day there will be no more bugs except in museums and everyone will be driving the same color, style and shape of car like the neighbor next door and the neighbor after that. Buy what you like, and if you fall in love with it then you got a great deal.
Bruce–You are my kind of guy! I like your advice! Kevin–check what Bruce says–he’s spot on! jay
Lots of good advice being offered here. If the price is right, say around $4500 then you have lots of leeway to restore the car properly if you can perform some of the work yourself. If you are going to shop it all out then no this may not be a good way to start. If you want a perfect car shop around and make sure your wallet is stuffed. Call Chris Vallone. See what he would charge to restore this car. Get actual prices not just speculation on motor and transmission costs. I have replaced many gas lines, a difficult job through the tunnel and almost impossible with the body on the chassis. If you are pulling the body then this would be no problem. You have to know from the start how far you are willing and capable of going in a restoration effort or refurbishing effort. An 1835 with Porsche alloys might be tempting but if the gas line is rotted as many are, then there are many other mechanical aspects that need to be considered before you drive down the road. I would be happy to start with a car like this one. The dash if it was cut was very minimal if at all and the fender swap is pretty simple and will force you to visit your friendly flea market vendors and meet new enthusiasts. It is easy to say “walk away” if the gas line leaks but if that were the case with my many restorations and refurbishments then I’d still be walking. LOL If this car is in your price range and you have some mechanical skills and the ability to put some money into it before it hits the road then you may have saved another ’67 for the future. I have one car that I have “restored three times, twice with the body off. Each version better than the last. If you love it it happens. If not you move on to something else or trade for a better version. I have owned that one car for over 45 years and my’67 Cabrio for 27 years. The Cabrio was a learning experience and is a work in progress but it is mechanically sound before it ever hit the road. If you buy this vehicle do the “grunt work” first to be safe. All 40+ year old cars are worn out unless they were hidden somewhere. Expect the repairs and if you are prepared to do them well or shop them out don’t be afraid of a car like this. Rust free never means rust free but this car seems pretty straight although you had no pictures of the pan. Just some thoughts to confuse you more!!! LOL Have a great day.
Wow, all of the comments are great advice and have given me a lot to think about. The challenge is that most of the bugs for sale out there are a mystery if it is a decent price or out of my budget if has been restored. I am feeling as if I have unrealistic expectations and that is a roadblock to getting a 67. I did find one in orange county that seems ok and is in my price range but it has a quarter size hole in the dash just above the radio. The current owner said it was there when he got it. The other issue is that it has some rust present on the pan. Here is the ad
I really appreciate your help and I am getting a great feel of community and brotherhood.
I am currently having my 67 bug restored and it is my job to source a new carpet. How can I find out the original colour so I can keep it as original as possible? Thanks
I bought my ’67 in 1970 and I’d call the original carpet like a charcoal.
Thank you. I honestly cant remember much about the carpet before it was taken out. :-) Apart from the fact it needed replacing. My beetle is blue, what colour is yours? Just wonder if different colours had different interiors.
Mine is white with black seats and door panels. I bet you can search on theSamba.com and get info and likely pictures of the factory carpet.
Hi there, i have a bahamas blue ’67 (european) , and the original carpets (still in place but tattered) are charcoal gray… mine has black door panel inserts and a black steering wheel). Best of luck!
hi, I’m from Belgium! Lovely webside!! I own a 67 beetle since 98. it was my first car, and I restored in in 2001 to original condition. it still drives perfectly. the only thing I can’t get werking is the horn. It worked untill some years ago…but sadly now no sound anymore. sadly I don’t have any idea how this can be repaired. if anone could tell me, I would be greatfull!
My wife and I are in the process of a complete restoration of our 67 vert, which my wife purchased as her first car in 1986. Unfortunately for us, my wife lived in the Florida gulf area and moved to Pennsylvania, which is where we met, the beetle in its time went through a few hurricanes and floods while being stored in Florida. About 8 years ago we drove down and brought it here, and started our process of our restoration. We had tons of bad luck with people who were going to restore it, from 2 people moving out of state, one never committing to do the work, one came highly recommended and sat in there shop for 9 months with never touching it. Finally last year we found a great guy who has his own shop and had just did a restoration on his own 67 vert! His wife owns a 66 vert also. Now comes the expensive part, the flood and sea water, we needed a new motor, our motor couldn’t be used for a core charge, a new rebuilt tranny with flyer gears, new floor, body supports, other sheet metal,etc. There isn’t much that the water didn’t have an effect on, torsion bars in front axle beams were bad, had to drill out clutch cable tube, accelerator tube,etc. This has turned into our “NEW” car with the cost. LOL. When completed in March it will have been a 5 month project and as much as our new Subaru Outback, which we bought in 2015. Would we do it again, YES!!! It has been a great experience, I get to do hands on in the shop and learn all about how it works and knowing there were only 6349 verts made in 67 makes it really worth it! I had a price from a great shop in Maryland for $45,000 for the restoration, which would have been show quality, not what we wanted. We will have a better than new, almost show quality, and something we can drive around town with. A great vert that will get passed on to the next generation. Our restoration guy did sell his 67 vert and bought another project for himself, an early 60’s bus which he is doing the airbags suspension, window and sunroof in roof, low profile tires,etc.
Just recently got my 67. Hope to keep it in the family for a very long time. It was sold new in Hutchinson, Ks. In 2014 the car was put back into use. I enjoy the car as it is, but the work done in 2014 was lacking in many areas. I hope to be able to get the car back to a 100% function and 80-99 % appearance level. I am so very happy with the VW info and help that seems to be everywhere.
Scott, ….. 1967 sunroof sedan – “white”
Hello, Scott…Congratulations on your acquisition! A SunRoof Edition–a rare car indeed! The SunRoof is an extremely desirable Beetle. With perseverance, you WILL be able to reach your goal of bringing the Bug back to its original glory! There are lot of good people here on 1967beetle.com who are ready to help with that goal. jay
Any idea where I can pick up some sapphire V radio knobs? Amazing site btw, thanks!
Are the rubber radio knobs the same as the head light switch knob? I can’t tell from pictures but someone was telling me they are the same.
You are correct. They are the same safety soft black knobs.
Brian–the difference will be not in the Knob but in how it fits onto the radio shafts. The Radio Knobs are push-on Knobs but the Head Light Knob is a screw-on Knob. jay
Hallo! I own a Beetle 1967, but unfortunatelly many of its parts do not belong to it. I am looking for a co-drivers door with the roond handle knob. How possible is to find one, and in what price?
Hello, I have a 1967 Bug that i dismantling for parts as it was hit hard on the drivers side. The passenger door is good and complete. i also have many other parts for a 1967. Rear Pop out windows, the correct wiper motor assembly. Front and rear hood. Good dash and other parts. All the glass is good. Door handles correct for 1967.
Possibly a working original radio? Mine quit and I sent it off for repair but it quit again.
Larry, sorry, no radio. We still need one for the 1967 Beetle we are rebuilding. Let me know if you need any other parts.
Are the front fenders in fair shape and are they German?
Sorry, I needed them for our project car. I do have a set of 66 our older.
I’m looking for the yellow covered wire from firewall to the license plate light on rear hood if you have it. Also looking for a 0-101-302-076 (Bosch) 075//VW#–211-903-031A generator.
Please drop me a note at email@example.com if you should have either one,
Don, sorry for delay and responding. I do not have either item you are looking for. The parts car does not have an engine. As for the wiring, you can get complete or partial wiring harness from several of the VW parts supply houses.
many thanks anyway. the hunt continues.
Is the front hood handle specific to 67 beetles ?
I am just beginning the adventure with the delivery of my ’67 bug last Friday. It appears to have been mostly unmolested except for a change of paint color – previous owner wanted it to match her Pontiac… I am glad to find you site. It looks like it will be very helpful as well as encouraging! Thank you!
Hello, Greg…Welcome to the wonderful world of t he 1967 Beetle Community. You are embarking upon a great journey which may give you pause, at times, but which surely will result in much pleasure as you enjoy your Beetle! jay salser
Just found you guys. Have been looking for a pair of seat belt release ivory push on handles for my 67 Bug. Any chance someone knows of some nice ones? Also wonder if I should paint my 67. It will have pretty much everything new, except the crappy ruby red washed out paint. No dents or real rust issues, just bad paint. Would I be able to get that money back? Thanks for any input-
Hello, Randy…Welcome aboard! I am intrigued by your request for “ivory push on handles” for your seat belts. Would you be able to send photos of your seat belt set-up to firstname.lastname@example.org and to me at email@example.com This will help us to visualize what you need. Are you planning to paint the Beetle then sell it? A worthy paint job will cost several thousand dollars–depending upon how much body work is needed, etc. There are many factors which enter into the mix when a person wants to market his car–mainly it is correctness and condition. It is the usual case that reconditioning/restoration costs far exceed what these cars will sell for. But, then–there is the buyer factor. Some buyers will pay more. I have found the former to be more the case, however. Thus, the more money put into a vehicle, the less “profit” (if any) the seller makes. jay
As far as the 67 having the push on connectors for the 12 volt generator please note that this type of generator was primarily used in 67 but 67 was not the first year only for this generator. The push on connector type generator was used on various models of volkswagens off and on from 1965 to as late as 1970. So it is not unique to the 67 bug. Just mainly used on it. I personally have this type of generator dated June 1966, 6 from the 1967 year , one from 11/1968, 09/1969 and one dated October 1969.
My other friend in Nor-Cal said he has one dated 5/1970 with the plug in type. Basically they used these until they either ran out of them or decided the normal screw on connectors were better or more efficient to manufacture and slowly phased out the 67 type. Nothing is written in stone.
Hello i am so jazzed to find 67 only. I bought mine in 1989 and she was a dream come true. I drove it until I fell on some hard times and then she sat for a couple of years. I put her up tor sale and it broke my heart to see her go. The guy that bought it had a collection up to 60-70 bugs. He never drove it or did much to her in the ten years he had her. He took rims off and a few parts. Sadly he passed away in early 2019. I had kept in touch with him the entire time and was able to buy her back from his wife. I drove 517.7 miles to AZ from CA. to get her. She is a little worse for the wear.. I really want to restore her to her former beauty. My problem is that my husband is now disabled and cannot do it. I need to find someone that knows what they are doing. Engine is sound transaxle is new. It is more the little things and pan that need restoring. Any connections would be greatly appeciated. Elizabeth wants to be my baby on the road again.. As do i. Thank you and reguards, Robin
Is there a 1967 one Year only turn lever switch for the steering column?
Hello, Jet…The Turn Signal Switch with the Hi-Lo Trigger on the Turn Signal Lever was new for 1966. The Turn Signal Switch Assembly for 1966-1967 is 141953517F and can be used for both years. The Switch for 1968 has some changes. jay salser
Great help! Wow thanks a lot! Another 67 only part to get hahaha
Hello, this is a question for Jay or Eric: I’m restoring a ’67, Ruby Red and chasing for original parts I discover 1967beetle.com and I’m amazed at the incredible fountain of information I ran into. Thank you guys for doing what you are doing. Now, back to my question: the VIN number on the pan is there, but the aluminum tag in the spare wheel well is missing. How can I get one? I read some of the comments about a “birth certificate” from VW in Germany. How do I go about that? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Armando
I purchase a 67 sedan that has a chrome insignia on the back lid that says VTO. Is this normally done or is it some type of upgrade? It also had a gasoline heater in the trunk and a different carb that did not fit the standard oil bath air cleaner. Do you have any info that will tell me anything?
Hello, and thank you for commenting here! First, let me say that people added after-market parts–or interchanged parts from previous or following years. I’ve seen some really bizarre creations. Sometimes these changes were made when no correct replacement part was available–but parts from other year-models would work, allowing the owner to continue driving his vehicle. Now–getting to the VTO script on the decklid. Is this in addition to the VOLKSWAGEN script or in place of it? What was the name of the manufacturer of the gasoline heater? If it was Stewart-Warner–that was an add-on applied in the USA. For VWs sold outside the USA, usually the Eberspacher gasoline heater was used. The Stewart-Warner heater usually was used only in the colder sectors of the USA. Regarding the Carburetor–to our knowledge only the 30 Pict-1 Carburetor was used both for USA destination Beetles (and other ’67 VWs) and in other countries. There was, for the ’67 Beetle only the one oil-filled air cleaner atop that carburetor. Look for identifying Part Numbers on questionable parts. This can reveal whether or not a part found on the car corresponds to its year–or not. If you have found numerous questionable parts on your Beetle, expect to find even more as you examine it. I think that there may be a trend here! I hope that this helps! jay
Hello! My son recently purchased what the VIN says is a ‘67 but the metal dash has all the holes of a ‘68 including the rear view mirror holes. Can someone explain this? We are stumped! It was converted to a Baja and is missing so much. Thanks
Good morning, Deborah…Thank you for contacting 1967beetle.com Let’s talk about VINs. There should be 3 VINS: One will be stamped into the Chassis beneath the Rear Seat Bottom. Lift the Rear Seat Bottom and look for the Chassis VIN stamped by the Oval Inspection Plate. It should begin with 118-xxxxxx. Next, check beneath the Front Hood behind where the Spare Tire sits. There should be an Aluminum Plate which bears the SAME VIN as the one beneath the Rear Seat Bottom (118-xxxxxx)–this is called The Body VIN. (In later Beetles, this became a Plate affixed to the driver’s side of the Dash inside the car.) The Title VIN should be identical to both the Chassis VIN and the Body VIN (118-xxxxxx). We do not understand about “holes for the mirror in the dash”. The mirror was not situated on the dash but above the windshield. IF–the Beetle is a 1967, all three VINs will begin with 117-xxxxxx. All sorts of things happen with these cars. People will set one Year’s Body onto the Chassis of another year Year. OR–they will cut-and-remove the Chassis VIN and weld in the Chassis VIN of another year. OR–people will sell a Bug based upon the Paper Title which may not represent the Chassis OR the Body VINs. It is a crime to alter a vehicle’s VIN. I tell people to stay away from cars for which All Three VINs are not identical. Please reply to us to let us know what you have discovered. jay
Comments are closed.