’67 Beetle Correct Wheels and Hubcaps

1967 bug

Contributed by Louie Meyer, a reader of 1967beetle.com, this article talks about the correct wheels and hubcaps for your ’67 Beetle.

As you well know, owning a ’67 Beetle is a very different experience. All the one year only parts, early and late production within the time frame of the ’67 model year and so on.

When it came time to find the correct wheels and hubcaps, I began to get frustrated. I looked at a lot of used parts ads showing what the seller claimed was ’67 hubcaps for sale but, in fact they were the later ’68 and up hubcaps.

Wheels on the other hand are easier to spot. So what do you need to look for when searching for these “rare” parts? The hubcaps look a lot like the ’68 and up caps until you turn them on their side.

67 beetle hubcaps

The ’67 hubcaps have an inner lip to attach them to the INSIDE of the wheel hub. The ’68 and up caps attach to the OUTSIDE of the wheel hub. Now the tricky part. The wheels are special too. What a surprise right?!


The wheels have holes all the way around the hub area of them. The wheels also have no hubcap clips like the ’65 and earlier beetles. The ’67 wheels used three small bumps on the inside of the hub area of the wheel, this is where the hubcap actually contacts the wheel. They fit very tightly so be careful not to dent them. When the hubcaps are fully installed there will be a 1/8th inch gap between the cap and the wheel. This gap makes it seem like hubcaps are not fully installed, but they are. The gap is there so that the accessory trim rings will fit on the wheels.

Now that we got the shape of the hubcaps and wheels out of the way, what color wheels are correct for your ’67? Well with the help from 1967beetle.com, I got mine painted correctly. All ’67 Beetles had black and white wheels. Inner hub area is black and the outer ring area near the tire white. The black is more of a dark charcoal color and the white is an eggshell color. I cleaned up my wheels and painted them myself. The stock wheels really set off the car. Looks like a Million bucks!!

Well I hope sharing my knowledge and experience restoring my wheels will help you bring back the stock look of your ’67 Beetle. Have fun with your ’67 no matter what shape it’s in. Let’s all keep the vintage VWs rolling.

Happy Motoring -Louie Meyer

Thanks, Louie for sharing this tip with 1967beetle.com.

Posted by Eric Shoemaker

Hello, I'm Eric. I started Air-Cooled Artifacts (previously, 1967beetle.com and Lane Russell). I drive a '67 Beetle daily and love to share vintage Volkswagen stories with the world.

  1. Perfect timing on this article. Was talking to my good friend about this yesterday. This could answer some of the questions. Thanks!

    1. Another great article!

      1. Thanks for reading!

    2. You are the second person to mention the timing. Thanks for reading.

  2. Glad I could help!! -Louie

    1. Thank you again for your contribution to the site.

  3. You have to be careful looking for these hubcaps as there are several early Type III hubcaps that look very similar, but some of those are not crowned or domed as tall, and will likely be three times the price of Type I’s!

    It is also common for them to be dented because they are hard to install correctly. Most people hit them in the center when trying, and that can dent them if not done with care. The best way I have found is to place the hubcap lip into two of the three wheel tabs, hold it down against them so it doesn’t slip and direct a firm blow to the opposite side of the cap where the third wheel tab is. It won’t dent if you hit it right on the edge of the cap where it’s shape makes it strong. You can use the palm of your hand, which is not advised due to potential personal injury, or a soft rubber mallet.

    Hope this helps those looking to find or install them.

    1. Thanks for the great info Bruce.

    2. Bruce, thank you for your additional info. You’re correct the type III caps are a little flatter and the “nipple” Vw logos are more defined, taller as such. And the price will definitly reflect it. I believe these are the style the aftermarket has reproduced. They claim the caps are the same as standard 66-67s but they are slightly different.

  4. I will confirm the details of the descriptions of the hubcaps and wheels. Mine are still 100% stock and still looking pretty good. I didnt know these facts so will be even more careful not to lose or damage my ’67 parts.

  5. This article only depresses me since I have clips on my hubcaps. :) The hunt starts now!

    1. It never ends…… :)

      1. And today I discover that I have clips on my spare wheel hubcaps, but all 4 on-the-ground wheels seem to be correct! Repainted by a PO to single-color L87, but correct. I’ll fix the colors later..

        1. All VW Wheels are date coded. VW stamped the wheels around the area of the lug holes. Look for a circle with 2 numbers in a fraction form (9/66), meaning September 1966. You may have to sand some paint off to find it. I had a spectator at a show comment on my spare wheel stating it was older than my car. I quickly responded that my car was built in December 1966 and he walked away. Also, late 1967 wheels have a safety bead or hump as VW refered to them. They were designed to be safer with radial tires. These wheels will have a J stamp. That’s just another 67 only item.

  6. except rims on all 67 convertables were black . they came with factory trim rings .

    1. Totally random, but when I first got my ’67, I sold the German hubcaps for $20. I’m still not sure to this day what I was thinking…

  7. Here is a technical addition to this fine story:
    L41 Black, L282 Lotus White, L456 Ruby Red, L518 Java Green and L620 Savanna Biege 1967 Beetle sedan wheels were painted LD43 Grey-Black inner and L282 Lotus White outer. L633 VW Blue and L639 Zenith Blue 1967 Beetle sedan wheels were painted LD43 Grey-Black inner and L680 Cumulus White outer. Convertible wheels were painted LD43 Grey-Black regardless of body color as already stated and did come with beauty trim rings as standard equipment. Wolfsburg West stocks the LD43 Grey-Black paint in aerosol cans. Online paint retailers can mix a spray can of your choice with these color codes. Hope this helps.

  8. The hubcaps you are writing about are for the 5 lug 1300 67s
    a “HOT 1500” 67 has 4 lug wheels which also have different hubcaps to the 68 on, basically they have the same side thickness as a 68 hubcap but the vw logo raised section is alot more raised.

    1. Good info!

  9. I’d like to know more about the 4 lug variant. How different are the hubcaps? Are the wheels on the 4 lug model the same as 68 on?
    Mines a UK model 1500 so 4 lug and disc brake.

    1. Right well the correct hubcaps for the 4 stud 67 can be seen here

      Notice they are flatter and have a very raised centre section, they attach just like all 68 on beetles, its the profile that is different, 67 to 68 type threes have the same rare hubcap, not sure is they are exactly the same or if they have a reversed vw logo

      1. another picture, bit blury but you get the idea of the raised centre section http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/revans_trebor/hub.jpg

        1. Good feedback!

  10. Well nice. My set are not correct but there are a few on the samba and failing that there are even repros!

  11. I had no idea I would still up so much feedback. I love all the extra info. Keep em coming! -Louie

  12. IS there a good way to tell original German hubcaps from aftermarket caps?

    1. Charlie,
      This is an easy one. As far as aftermarket VS German, the OEM stuff will always have a part number stamped. I’m not sure of the number, but I think Jay might. Jay? Otherwise, the aftermarket stuff will look German; until it rust after 3 weeks!

      1. I thought there might be. Any idea where the part number would be located?

        1. I’ll let Jay chime in, but I believe it’s on the side, the part that gets pooped into the rim.

          1. VW# 131 601 151A
            The number is not stamped on the hubcap. The best way to distinguish a German cap is to look at the VW logo. It should have a deep impression. They also weigh more than an aftermarket, but this only helps if you have something to compare it to.

          2. Thanks for the info Eric and Jody. Does anyone happen to have a picture of a German and after-market side by side to see the difference in the logo?

          3. I’m sure I’ve seen a part # on caps before at least once. Jody’s correct about the thickness of the metal. You could always find and old set (German) and have them re-chromed.

  13. Oh…wow! This becomes a complicated situation quickly. I have learned, about VWs, never to say “never”! In this case, I will say that I never have see the VW logo on a ’66-’67 Beetle wheel cover. But…I may find one with the VW logo on it tomorrow. So…stand by, please. Eric asked that I chime in. I have very little to offer, actually. I examined 13-’66-’67 wheel covers and found 5 had not a single marking on them, I used magnification, even, but could not find any identifying marks. On the other 8, here is what I found. I found all of the markings stamped in tiny letters and numerals on four parts of the wheel covers–all were within the part that snaps into the rim. I designate these as the bottom inner lip, the upper inner lip, the inner ring surface and the outer bottom lip.

    1. T 6–bottom inner lip
    2. T 6–bottom inner lip
    3, B 157–top inner lip
    4. 38 T–bottom inner lip
    5. T 77–bottom outer lip
    6. 68 (could be 89 but conforming to the right-side-up of others it is 68)–inner ring
    7. T 69–inner ring
    8. M 14l (the last numeral or letter could be a 1 but more appears to be an L)–inner ring

    Even the covers which have no identifying markings appear to be triple-plated (copper, nickel, chrome). Therefore, I am assuming that I am dealing with genuine VW parts.

    Until someone comes up with code-deciphering literature, I am stumped.

    I did look at an old parts catalog and found this parts number: 131-601-151 that reports this cover to be for ’66-’67 Beetle, ’66 Karmann Ghia and ’62–’65 T-3.

    Let me add that I don’t immediately assume that anything on my cars is original without careful inspection. I think that we all have discovered, to our dismay, that people have altered our cars over the years. That’s the reason that a venue such as 1967Beetle.com is so helpful. Our pool of knowledge is strong evidence for appropriate-year parts and accessories for our ’67 ‘Verts and Sedans.

    Did I just say all of this? I’ll continue to think on it.


    1. Jay, I checked my stash of caps and here is what I found. I have 17 hubcaps, 10 of them have markings.
      B 06
      B 48
      M 104
      M 122
      T 14
      T 123 (2)
      T 52
      W 50
      W 133
      My opinion,…it’s a German Bingo game!

      1. no markings on 4 of my 4 wheels.

        1. Here is the post I started on thesmaba.com. It has pictures of the hubcaps in question and also some pics of the raised squares that others are saying are on the original german 67 hubcaps.

          1. Good read!
            Jody’s right about the German caps being much deeper with the VW mark.

            Here’s a easy test. Put an aftermarket cap outside in the rain along with a German cap and see which one rust first.

  14. Jay thanks for all the great info! I put a post on thesamba.com and many people mention that on the inner lip there are three square raised area’s. I do not have enough hubcaps to look at to see if this is true or not.

    1. Hello, Charlie…I examined my wheel covers and could find no “square raised areas” on any of them. I see the factory mandrel markings only. Maybe tomorrow when my old eyes are rested? I had to laugh real big at Jody’s assessment of the numbering situation–“it’s a German bingo game”! That’s so good. jay

  15. here is an excellent picture of a true 67 1500 with correct 4 lug hubcap with correct 1 year only raised centre section


  16. Hi
    i have 3 x ’67 original hubcaps in good condition for sale. If anyone is interested I can send photos.

      1. looking for four good 67 hub caps

        1. We should have them in stock soon. Check http://lanerussell.com.

    1. Rob…If possible, please send photos and contact information to Eric. We have many readers searching for ’67 caps to put their cars right. Thanks for contacting 1967Beetle.com! jay

      1. Thanks Jay will do.

  17. I’ve got a 67 beetle with the correct 67 wheels, and new aftermarket hub caps. The front caps stay on fine but the rears have a mind of their own and fall off during cornering. Any tips to help them stay in place?

    1. Rob,
      Thanks for writing. Yes, the aftermarket caps are known for this. Honestly, I’d replace them with a good used German set. Let me know if you need help sourcing some.

  18. Hello ,
    I’m a bit confused I guess….I’m currently in the process of Doing a Total Rotisserie Restoration on my 1967 Beetle ..”.For Sure ” I DO have ALL 4 ORIGINAL WHEELS off of it along with I believe at least 3 of the 67 Hub Caps you are talking about !
    What exactly are ALL of the Wheels & Hub caps actually worth ??..
    I am doing a sort of { LA Style Half original / Half Resto-Mod VW }….Whats really cool about this Beetle is when I completed striping it to complete bare metal …I was Totally BLOWN away to have found ONLY a hand full of very small dents NO RUST on the entire outer Body any where , and the only Bondo I found at all was on the left rear fender …which I’ll hammer dolly it to death to almost get it nearly perfect so I’ll only have to use a Skim coat of Mud!….
    Oh …Ruby Red from the factory as well …Man what a Cool Beetle to work on ..I’m REALLY glad that I bought it ..
    Like I said,I would REALLY like to know what those {REALTHING Wheels & Hub Caps or worth?}
    Thanks SO much ,,
    Butch @ Premium Auto Corp.

    1. Hello, Butch…As with most automotive parts it’s condition, condition, condition! Check this Link: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1303389. This person is offering “restored” rims for $50 each. I’d say that this is a cheap price (even though they aren’t painted correctly). If your rims are rusted, especially where the bead of the tire sits, they aren’t worth much. If unrusted and ready to be blasted and painted, I’d say that they are worth $50 each. The condition of the hub caps also is dependent upon their condition. Dented and rusted–not much value–maybe $10? If they are perfect, they could be worth $50 each–or more. They have become scarce. Reproduction caps are now available–these are better quality than in the past. BTW–Your Beetle will be worth much, much more in restored stock condition. Every modification devalues the vehicle. This is more so every day because the ’67 has become more and more sought-after. But, enjoy your Beetle, Butch! jay

      1. Hi Jay
        Thank You SO much for all of your valuable info on my 67 Beetle, I’m a very good listener .
        The Best To Ya,
        Butch Wyrick ,

  19. a friend of mines boss bought a 67 new, apparently one of the odd 4 lug 67’s, long story short a month after they bought the car new his wife wanted different wheels so he ordered some brazilians and put the stocks in the aftermarket wheel boxes where they say until a few months ago, he had a cleaning out sale at his print shop and my buddy called me and said he had some vw wheels, i went, listened to the car story, i tossed around the fact i thought they were 68’s or newer, since then this old dog did some research and low and behold there were some 4 lug 67’s. my question is are there markings to prove it on the rims as im going to sell them soon. thanks for any info

    1. mystery solved, they are marked 74 so the story must have some holes in it!

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