30 Pict-1 Carburetor Differences

Genuine Restored 30 PICT 1 Carbs

Digging into the archives here at 1967beetle.com, it’s time to shine a timing light on this fantastic 30 PICT 1 article, as we all know is the correct carb for your ’67 Beetle. A huge thanks to Jay Salser for all he does for 1967beetle.com.

I have been driving and working on ’67 Beetles for over 37 years. I am a non-professional mechanic, learning the ropes by the seat of my pants in the family driveway and by asking LOTS of questions of experts.

Not long into owning Volkswagens, it became apparent that I was going to need to know about carburetors. My VW mechanic, at the time, was obliging, telling me some tricks of the trade. By this time of life (I’m now 74) I thought that I knew the 30 Pict-1 inside and out, by heart, and could work on them in the dark. But…….

That “but” caught me way off-guard. It caught some other people off-guard, as well. Here’s how it happened. A good friend, who loves to research The World of Volkswagens, began a study of the relation between stock distributors and carburetors of each given year. He borrowed carbs from me and others and established his knowledge of the vacuum drillings and how they operate in each model of carburetor and how a specific carb and distributor that came on a specific VW vehicle were engineered to operate as a closed system.

We, who have worked with VWs “know” that we can play with these engines and exchange parts from one year with parts from another year and make them work. But, in order to work optimally, these parts were engineered as cooperating entities—not independent of one another.

And so, I was brought up short when my friend announced to me that there were two versions of the 30 Pict-1 carb for USA import Beetles. I even argued the point. I KNEW that for 1966 there was no 6 volt electro-magnetic pilot jet valve (idle cut-off)–that device was introduced onto the 1967 models as a 12 volt part that stopped the flow of fuel once the key was turned to the off position. It is rather an anti-dieseling device. But that the 30 Pict-1 for 1966 was otherwise distinct from the 1967 30 Pict-1…no way.


Based upon this new information, I dug through my supplies of carbs until I found and separated those from 1966 (1300 engines) and those from the 1967 1500 engines (note that I am speaking about vehicles specifically exported from Germany into the USA through dealerships).

And because we of 1967Beetle.com are concerned with Beetles, and, specifically 1967 Beetles, my comparisons will be limited to the ’66 and ’67 Beetle versions of the 30 Pict-1 carburetors. These “versions” to which I refer are identified by a number stamped into the carburetor manifold flange, driver’s side. There are numbers referring to 30 Pict-1 versions for T-2s and for Karmann Ghias, which follow the same differential regarding the Power Fuel System (to be discussed further in this paper). Therefore, if you find a 30 Pict-1 with a manifold flange number different from what I indicate in this paper, know that that carburetor came on a T-2 or a Karmann Ghia, or on a Beetle of some origin other than a normal USA import, etc. That’s a complicated discussion for some other venue.

Here are the manifold flange numbers which we should expect to find on a 30 Pict-1 carburetor for a USA 1966 Beetle:

  • VW 47-1 with the early style throttle return spring
  • VW 75-1 with the late style throttle return spring
  • VW 83-1 with the late style throttle return spring

Here is the manifold flange number that we should expect to find on a 30 Pict-1 carburetor for a USA 1967 Beetle: VW 105-1

Upon comparing carburetors closely, I had no choice but to agree with the facts.

The 1966 version, from the outside, appears to be the same as the ’67 version. The bodies are cast identically. However, upon closer inspection, one can see that there is a drilling that is not continuous in the ’66 version, whereas the drilling in the ’67 version IS continuous and contributes to what is called the “Power Fuel System”.

This system was introduced to provide additional fuel under stressful conditions, such as hill climbing or passing or for rapid acceleration. It is vacuum activated.

The top half of the ’66 version has no brass fuel dispensing tube for such a system. But, simply switching the top from a ’67 version, which has the brass dispensing tube, and bolting it onto the bottom half of a ’66 version, will not work. This is because, although the casting is present in the ’66 version, it is not drilled through to the bowl—the source of the fuel to be dispensed.

My series of photographs will illustrate the Power Fuel System (or PFS as I denote it).

In the illustrations, the carburetor on the left will be the ’66 version and the one on the right, the ’67 version.

Illustration #1 pictures both German Solex 30 Pict-1 versions. The non-PFS ’66 version, on the left, is stamped “VW 83-1” on the manifold flange. The ’67 version, on the right, is stamped “VW 105-1” on the manifold flange. Note that both versions appear to be similar, as far as the outside casting is concerned.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #2 shows both carburetor top halves from a top view, clearing showing the lack of the PFS dispensing tube in the ’66 version (left) and its presence in the ’67 version (right).

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #3 shows both tops, again, but from the bottom perspective, again showing the lack of or presence of the PFS dispensing tube. Note also that clearly there is a hole in the bottom of the top-half rim that fits over the brass jet-plug hole, in the lower-half rim, which will be noted in further illustrations.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #4 shows identical drillings in both carburetor top halves but, again, no dispensing tube in the ’66 version (left). The drilling in the ’67 version (right) matches its dispensing tube.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #5 shows the bottom halves of both versions demonstrating the PFS drilling into the rim of the driver’s side of the carburetor. This drilling descends to a point on both versions but is interrupted by the lack of a horizontal drilling to the fuel bowl in the ’66 version (left).

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Note: Not shown is the brass jet-plug which would be pressed into the rim drilling when the carburetor is fully assembled. Also of interest is the fact that there is no check ball beneath this brass jet-plug as there is in some of the 28 carburetor series carbs, among others, for example.

Illustration #6 shows the driver’s side of the bottom halves of both versions. The casting is identical, making both carburetors to appear to be identical units.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #7 shows the end of the horizontal casting in the ’66 version (driver’s side)—the end has not been plugged. This means that it has not been drilled, then had the end plugged.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #8 shows that the horizontal casting in the ’67 version (driver’s side) has been drilled, then plugged. Note the tiny, shiny plug.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #9 shows the inside of the bowl of the ’66 version—no drilling is present, thus disallowing any fuel to be pulled through to the PFS dispensing tube.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #10 shows that the horizontal casting on the ’67 version has been drilled through and into the fuel bowl so that vacuum will pull fuel through the drillings and out the dispensing tube.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Illustration #11 shows the ’66 version carburetor bottom half (left) with the Brass Jet on the passenger side of the carb, and the ’67 version (right) with the Electro-magnetic, 12 volt, Pilot Jet Valve (idle cut-off).

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — 30 Pict-1 Carburetors (Are They All The Same?)

Of course, Volkswagen trained and certified specialists knew of all of these differences and didn’t switch carburetors from one car to another unwittingly. Nor did they mismatch tops and bottoms.

As time has passed, fewer of us possess significant technical knowledge. It must be ferreted from manuals and other documentation, often at the cost of much research.

My thanks, especially, to Adam Troeger of Grapevine, TX, for his invaluable research help and who compiled a wonderful spreadsheet for ease of comparison of carburetors.

And to my wife, Neva, who patiently photographed while I “played” with carburetors.

Additional thanks to several who made contributions to:
TheSamba and to Andy T. who compiled data from several sources. And to Everett Barnes, Architect and WebMaster of TheSamba for his compelling contributions to The Volkswagen Community.

Posted by Jay Salser

My wife, Neva, and I have been driving and working on VWs since 1976. In fact, we raised our family in these cars. Now, we are retired and enjoy VWs as a hobby. The ’67 Beetle always has been our favorite year. We own a '67 Beetle and a '68 Karmann Ghia.

  1. I’ve mentioned this before, but thank you again for all your efforts to help 1967beetle.com grow. Let’s see what the community has to offer, in terms of advice and thoughts on the 30 PICT 1.

    1. Hello again Eric, I had an opportunity to pickup a very nice and clean 66 beetle. Super nice. Besides the engines (1300-1500) and carbs was there any other significant differences between the 66 and the 67 beetle?

      1. Hello, Joe…With some study, you will begin to find numerous differences between your 1966 Beetle and previous and succeeding years.

        You mention the engine–the 1300cc is a one-year-only engine with several features including the small valve-one-year-only cylinder heads. The 1300 also was the first Beetle year to have cam bearings. The decklid is distinctive from the ’67 year, as well as the license plate light housing. The breastplate is a one-year-only tin as is the air breather. Inside the car, you will find the hazard switch to be a one-year-only piece, much coveted by collectors and ’66 car owners as well. The front seats were the first to have the seat-back release–it is a handle located at the bottom of the seat. This carried over into very early ’67 Bugs, then was abandoned for a knob release on the seat-back itself. The ’66 was the first year to have the black steering wheel, knobs, etc. I suggest that you contact this 1966 WebSite for further information. This Site is owned and managed by a good friend of mine: 1966vwbeetle.com


        1. Thank you Jay for your vast knowledge on the carbs. I am also in my 70’s and haven’t worked on my 1967 engine in many years and want to buy a new carb. Here is my question. You mention the number codes on the flange. My carb has the PFS tube, but the flange is marked “R 6 157”, not “VW 105 1”. Any comment on this? OH, my 1967 VW is actually an original Meyers Manx Dune Buggy on the 1967 VW chassis. Thanks again for your knowledge.

          1. Hello, Dan…

            Thank you for responding to the Article with your question. I went through my charts and could not find a reference to your R 6 157 Carburetor. Is this the stamping on the driver’s side of the lower flange? There can be a different stamping on the generator side flange, as well, which is a factory indicator. Is your carburetor a 30 Pict-1? Next–is it a German Carb? If it is not, it may be a Replacement carb for the 105-1 carb. I will continue to check to see if I can unearth this carburetor. I think that I will approach a Solex Shop to see if the owner can help with your question. But, I’ll await your responses to my questions here before I do that. Let’s see if we can unearth the relevant information. Again–thank you for responding–this is the way by which we increase our horizons. Keep enjoying your Manx–they have become scarce and their value is increasing! jay

          2. For those reading this Thread–here’s more on the subject which occurred on separate e-messaging:
            Thanks Jay for responding so quickly. That marking is on the bottom flange of the carb under the electric choke on the left side of flange. The carb is marked Solex 30 Pict on the side of the float bowl.
            I’ve had my Manx for 41.5 years. I traded a rough 1952 CJ-3A for it in January of 1975. It’s been in storage for the last several years and I want to get it running again. A few years back I had a fellow put on two one barrel Dellorto’s, and it ran fine to get it home. Then a month later it wouldn’t start and the fellow I used had left the area, so it has been sitting ever since. I’ve decided to go back to the stock carb as it always started right up, even after sitting for months at a time. I want to buy a new carb, as the one I have is the original.
            Mystery solved. I scraped off some light dirt on the opposite side, and found “VW 75 1” very lightly stamped into the flange. I didn’t think there was anything there as the dirt was light and completely smooth. So, It appears to be a 1966 carb. My engine is a 12 volt set up and it was registered as a 1967 VW. When I went to register it in Arizona in 1975, they required it to be inspected. In so doing, I had to register it as a “1975 Reconstructed Vehicle”.
            Hello again, Dan…Right. Glad that you found the identification. Your carb was introduced 12/65 and originally would not have had the PFS. Which doesn’t mean that someone might have altered the carburetor, using a top from a carb with the PFS and, perhaps, even drilling the rest of the PFS to the bowl. Doubtful–but remotely possible. You mention buying a new carb. I don’t advise doing that. The Mexican BoCar carbs are inherently faulty from the factory. I do not trust the Chinese carbs. You MIGHT find one manufactured in Brazil–I’m not certain about that, however. Eric Shoemaker of 1967beetle.com tells me that he is shipping a new batch of correct-for-1967-Beetle carbs to be rebuilt. You can check with him to learn about them. Stay in touch. I enjoyed working through this issue. jay

          3. Thanks again Jay. I have e-mailed Eric Shoemaker regarding rebuilt carbs. I sent it to eric@1967beetle.com, it that correct? Also, is 1967beetle.com a site that one can join? If so, how does one join, as I can’t find anything on the site to do so.

          4. Dan…Go here: https://1967beetle.com/

            Now, scroll downwards–looking on the right hand side. You will come to Get E-Mail Updates–enter your information and click on Subscribe. That will put notices into your e-mail. Enjoy the 1967 Beetle Community! jay

  2. Thank you Jay for the time and knowledge!

  3. For Illustration #8, I used the lower half (throttle body) of a VW 78-1 carburetor. It has the Power Fuel System and is a 30 Pict-1 from a VW other than a Beetle. My apologies for not showing the VW 105-1….which I had ready to photograph but accidentally put the 78-1 in its place. I discovered this misstep too late in the process to reverse it. Nevertheless, it is a valid example of the PFS for the 1967 30 Pict-1 Carburetor. I know that someone is going to catch this sooner or later. jay

    1. I did notice that. However, the purist in me kept my mouth shut.

    2. Thanks Jay for all your hard work, making it so much easier for us.

      1. Hi, Frank…It was my pleasure to review for the Readers of 1967beetle.com what I had been studying. Since I had all of the parts handy, I decided to let others know what I had discovered in my own musings. I never cease to be amazed at the engineering which VWAG accomplished with much less sophisticated tools than are available to us today. No computers–wonder of wonders! We think today that nothing can be done without computers! LOL Happily for us today, we enjoy the fruits of thousands (millions?) of hours of experiments by those German engineers. Keep loving your air-cooled VW, Frank! jay

  4. matthewjohnkeen August 30, 2013 at 4:11 pm

    Excellent article my friend!

  5. This is over-the-top cool! Thanks, Jay, for all the details and to Neva for the great pictures. I thoroughly enjoyed your article and precise style of writing!

  6. Wow great write up! Lots of info, I learned something I didn’t know. This is a great forum for our ’67 Volkswagens. I have to see exactly what carb I’m running.

    1. Kevin,
      Hopefully the right one. *Smile

  7. Whoa…………….more information than I can handle.
    I just trust Ed Fall At Vintage Werks to keep me going.
    Now there is a quality guy with a ton of integrity.

    1. Thanks all! Jay really did a great job with this one. Go, Jay!

  8. Jeff, so you can put a 1967 pic 30 pict on 1966 bug ?but not vise a versa ?

    1. It IS possible to run the ’66 version on a ’67 Bug. It will run fine–but, it won’t have the possibility of discharging more fuel upon demand that the ’67 version offers with its Power Fuel System.

  9. My pic 30 saids vw-75 on the flange. What year is that ?

    1. Nelson,
      That’s a ’66 version.

  10. Another very interesting and certainly useful article from Jay. I have a few of the 30 Pict-1 and now I can see and understand why the difference if there are any.
    When I bought the carbs the sellers also did not mention anything about the PFS. Perhaps they too were unaware of this.
    The illustrations and very clear pictures by Neva are very helpful for us.
    Thank you Jay for sharing your knowledge posting in the 67beetle.com. Keep up the good work. We definitely has benefitted from your article.

  11. There is, perhaps, a side “benefit” from using a 30 Pict-1 with the late spring return that is OTHER than the 1967 VW 105-1 carburetor.

    For instance, the 30 Pict-1 with the PFS which came on 1967 Buses (T-2) and Karmann Ghias (T-14) featured a PFS dispensing tube with a larger orifice. Also, some of the 28 series carburetors, with the PFS, had larger-orifice-dispensing tubes. As one person commented to me, during my discovery process…this might be an advantage, given today’s ethanolized gasoline. More gasoline upon demand than the VW 105-1 could dispense.

    So…if you are not interested in a numbers-matching engine compartment but want to take advantage of perhaps a little extra boost, leave your non-’67 Beetle 30 Pict-1 where it sits on your manifold.

    1. Jay,
      This is fantastic information. Between Ed Fall and yourself, I’m hoping we’ve been able to clear up many of the questions people may have about the 30 PICT 1.

  12. Wow… That is GREAT info. Seriously useful info for most of us playing with out 67s. And an extra bit of performance if we are using the wrong model.
    Thanks guys. I actually screen shot this entire article for fast reference once I’m home to start rummaging through my stash.

    1. That’s a good way to save information for quick reference, Richard. Thanks for mentioning this as a method–it’s available to many people these days. jay

  13. Ha… I knew I’d be needing this info. I’m now smarter and saved to home screen, the whole articles I need. Meaning all….lol, saves the photo storage. Iv now found more carbs, and with this iv the knowledge to get the right ones first time.
    Thanks again guys… All great stuff.

  14. Hi,

    I’ve recently got a 30 pict 1 as a replacement for a 1300 DP engine. My other beetle has a 34 Pict 3 and I know how to tune that, can anyone recommend a good place to look or method to correctly adjust the 30 pict 1?

    1. Info on the way!

    2. Give this a read, while we are doing some research for you.

    3. Hello, Mark…First let’s talk a minute about your carburetor. The 30 Pict-1 Series is an efficient and simple carburetor. I have used them for many years with great results.

      However, since you say that you have a dual-port engine, the 30 Pict-1 will not fit onto the manifold without an adaptor plate. The 30 Pict-1 is not suited for a dual-port engine. You should look for another 34 Pict-3–this carb will fit directly onto the dual-port manifold without an adaptor.

      I hope that this helps.


      1. Hi Jay,

        Thanks for responding. The Engine I have is a 1973 Twin-port 1300 AB code engine. It has been stored, unused for a long period. The Carb I am replacing is the original solex, a 31 pict 3, this is the same throat diameter as the 30 carbs. I understood the 34 picts fit the wider throated 1600 twin ports.

        1. Hello, again, mark…You must live other than in the USA. This was unclear in your original message. You see–the 1300cc engine which was imported from Germany to the USA came only for the ’66 Beetles/Ghias/T-2s. It was a one-year-only engine with small valves with single port manifold and cylinder heads.

          I am completely unfamiliar with the 1300 “twin-port” engines. We never have seen a 31 Pict-3 carburetor here–only the 30 Pict 1, 2 and 3s. My chart shows these as “non-USA only” carburetors. I cannot comment on their functions as compared with the 30 Pict-1 carbs.

          To “tune” the 30 Pict-1 carb (I am only guessing that it will fit the manifold since the throat diameter must be a mm smaller than the 31 Pict-3) here’s what i can tell you:

          The choke can be set so that the choke plate is loosely closing–and not all of the way. In other words…do not set the choke so tight that it is slammed shut. You don’t want to wait for 5 minutes for it to open. Be sure that the wire to the choke element is securely fastened.

          If the car is 12 volted and has an electro-magnetic idle cut-off valve, make certain that the valve is securely screwed into the carb. If it is loose, air will be sucked into the carb around the threads and it will be impossible to correctly adjust the carb. Be sure that the wire to the cut-off valve is securely connected.

          If your car does not have the cut-off valve–skip this step.

          There is only one screw on the driver’s side of the carb. Screw this screw completely into the carb. Don’t screw it hard–just so that it seats. Now, back it out 1-1/2 turns. This will allow the carb to run, although it prob. will need further adjusting. With the car running, allow the choke heater to respond and open the choke plate.

          Now, you can adjust the screw mentioned above. Turn clockwise VERY slowly in until you hear the engine begin to slow. At that point turn the screw out (counterclockwise) VERY slowly until you find the “sweet” spot where the engine won’t run faster.

          Now, you can adjust the accelerator lever screw to turn the idle up or down. I listen to my engines and turn it according to “my ear”. I don’t want too fast or too slow. At operating temperature, it should run nice and smoothly but not fast.

          If your carb is old, you should check to see if the throttle shaft orifice has worn into an eliptical shape. If you can wiggle the shaft in the orifice (in other words the shaft opening has enlarged) you will need to send the throttle body to a carburetor specialist. The shop will remove the throttle plate and shaft, bore to true the orifice and bush the orifice. The new bushings will be bored to match the steel shaft. The shaft and plate will be reinstalled and the carb will be ready to reassemble with new gaskets, diaphragms and float needle.

          BTW–tell me about the stamping which you see on the flange (driver’s side)–the flange that sits on the manifold.

          I hope that this helps. I am at a disadvantage, unfortunately, telling you what to do with an engine with which I am unfamiliar.


      2. Thanks for coming back to me, you’re right, I’m in the UK so a non US vehicle. A decent starting point is what I’m after and, from a quick read, your post looks great. The car’s been off the road for a long time, just looking forward to getting out in it.

        The help is much appreciated.

        1. Mark…why don’t you use the 31 Pict-3 carb? It probably is most suited to this engine–jetting, etc.–since apparently it was designed for this engine. I don’t have too much hope that the 30 Pict-1 is going to get the job done. jay

  15. Frank Schieber July 14, 2014 at 11:23 am

    Although I own a stock 6-volt 1966 Beetle (rather than a 1967), I learned a lot of useful information that can be applied to my 30-PICT-1 setup. Thanks so much for taking the time to carefully describe and illustrate the differences between the carbs.

    1. Frank,
      You’re welcome!

  16. Hey I loved the article and as a newbe to VW carbs I already learned a bunch. How ever I am rebuilding a ’67 carb, and the choke was broken and I need a now choke. Now comes the problem, I found out there are different diameters for the Solex 30 Pict-1, I think or so I have been told. They tell me the smaller one is a 6 volt which they don’t make anymore. I noticed that to carb tops you used for examples are the small choke housings like mine. Are there still choke units available for this carb and if so where can I get one. Thanks again for the article. Jim.

    1. Jim,
      I’ll be right back with some info.

    2. Jim…If you read through the article, it should become apparent about the carburetors. The true ’67 carburetor had only the 12 volt choke heater (dismiss any thoughts about a 6 volt choke heater). Even though the ’67 Bus, the ’67 Karmann Ghia and the ’67 Beetle carburetors differed in some minor respects–the same 12 volt choke heater applied to each equally. No difference in the choke heaters.

      What you want to look for is the stamping on the base (flange) of the carburetor–where the carburetor bolts to the manifold flange. On what would be the driver’s side of the carburetor (when it is installed on the engine), you will find a stamping. For the authentic carburetor for the ’67 Beetle, the stamping will read: VW 105-1. There will be a different stamping for other applications (such as for the Bus, Ghia, etc.).

      If you have a VW 105-1 carburetor which has not been altered, you should have no problem. 12 volt choke heaters are available used (see http://www.thesamba.com) and new…see any number of Online retailers.

      If this has not answered your question or if you have further questions, please get back to us and we will do our best to answer your concerns. Thanks for contacting us!


      1. Jay,
        Thanks for jumping in on that one. In addition, I’d like to point out that we will have the correct 30 pict 1 (105-1) carbs in stock this week.

        1. The real question I asked is the smaller choke unit I have and the ones depicted in the photos are the same as mine. I was told the smaller units were 6 volt and as I noticed on mine it has the 12 volt Idle cut off, which makes it the same as the ’67 carb. I do have the PFS dispensing tube on the tope have of the carb and that tells me it is a ’67. My question is can I still get a new choke unit for this carb. If so what is the part number, and where can I find it. Now that it is determined that mine is a 12 volt ’67 carb. Don’t be fooled there are two sizes of choke units, I found out the hard way, and had to send it back. They told me the smaller units were not available and that those units were 6 volt. I am still confused, and I must find out.

          1. Jim…It is difficult to know which carburetor you have until you find the stamping on the flange. If it is the correct one for the ’67 Beetle, it will read VW 105-1. I encourage you to look for that stamping first.

            Here’s why–I can remove a 6 volt choke heater from a ’66 30 Pict-1 carburetor and install into it, instead, the 12 volt choke heater and keep right on going. The ’66 carb isn’t a “6 volt carburetor” per se. It’s whatever electrical you install into it.

            I cannot say why someone sold you a “small” choke heater. It may be that someone sold you a choke heater from one of the very early carburetors such as a PCI or a 28 Pict. I don’t know.

            One other thing I must tell you. Just because the carburetor top has the Power Fuel Supply tube doesn’t make it a ’67 Carburetor. The 28 series of carburetors also has that feature. Please read my article on 1967beetle.com and follow the sequence of explanations and photos. There is more to the Power Fuel Supply system than just that tube. Be sure to look for the stamping on the flange. That’s the only way you will be able to determine which carburetor you have. People switch parts on these puppies all the time. Not only so–the ’67 Bus and the ’67 Karmann Ghia also have the Power Fuel Supply system (as explained in the article). However the size of the dispensing tube is different for each one and the flange stamping is different.

            I want you to contact the following person. He will sell you the correct part which you need. He is going to want to know which carburetor you have. He is a Solex Specialist. Tim Robson. 360-894-8787 tim@volkzbitz.com http://www.volkzbitz.com

            I hope that this helps.


          2. Well said, Jay.

  17. Hi,

    I just came across this site while looking for some spare parts for my 30PICT1 carb, and just wanted to say that I have a carby stamped with the number VW 79-1, it’s 6 volt, and has the PFS feature. It’s from a 67 1500 engine (Australian model Kombi).


    1. Alan,
      Interesting. All allow my partner Jay Salser to comment. Thanks for visiting us!

    2. Hello, Alan…Thank you for weighing in on the carburetor issues. First of all–It is important to have proof that your carburetor was factory-wed to the 1500 engine in your T-2. Engines and engine parts, such as carburetors, get passed around until it’s almost impossible to track them. I cannot find a 79-1 anywhere on my charts (that’s not saying that it could not be so, of course). I do see a 77 and a 78. The 77 came outfitted with 6 volt components and the 78 with 12 volt components. Both were fitted onto ’65 T-2s. It is possible that the 79 (which is missing on my charts) may fit into the scheme of things for the ’66 and ’67 T-2s.

      Nevertheless…since we of 1967beetle.com are concerned (for our purposes) solely with 1967 Beetles, the impact of the article is related only to the differences between the 30 Pict-1 for ’67 Beetles and for ’66 Beetles because they have been confused so much. I made a statement in my article saying that it would take much investigation to determine the differences for carburetors for Karmann Ghias, T-2s and Beetles both in the USA and abroad. Differences abounded! Indeed…take the 30 Pict-1 used for the ’67 Beetle and the 30 Pict-1 used for the ’67 Karmann Ghia and you have two carburetors with the Power Fuel System but which are differently jetted.

      It remains consistent that for the 1967 Beetle destined for consumption for the USA market, only the VW 105-1 was the carburetor of choice.

      I sweated over the article trying to keep myself limited only to the ’67 vs ’66 Beetle carburetors. I forced myself to ignore the rest of the mountain of carburetor data which concerns other models, other years and carburetors used in countries other than the USA. It will make a much larger study for someone who tackles all of that. If only I had another life-time! LOL Stay tuned, Alan! jay

  18. Thank you for the replies Eric & Jay. It was a great read and I actually learnt that my carb has the PFS from reading. Being new to VW, it seems like I’ve got a lot of learning ahead of me.

    1. Hello, Alan…yes…come learn with us! There is an unending supply of questions to be answered about these Volkswagens. If you like puzzles–you’ve come to the right place! Take care and thanks for stimulating our collective brains! jay

    2. Hello, Alan…Here goes again–my first reply was “lost”. Thank you for stimulating our collective brains! There are questions enough to go around when one gets into Volkswagens. If you like puzzles, you’ve come to the right place. Take care and stick with us, Alan. jay

  19. I have a 65 vw beetle convertable 6V with 28 PICT-1 carbureter. Needa replacement carbureter without modifications. Haven’t found one. HELP

    1. We offer the 30 pict 1 carb. Restored German. You could always replace the choke to 6V.

    2. Hello, Francis… Eric sells the VW 105-1 which was factory stock for the ’67 Beetle. The ’65 Beetle came with the 28 Pict-1 carburetor. Why don’t you consider having yours restored? If you want to do that, we can steer you in the right direction. Let’s us know–e-message Eric Shoemaker @: eric@1967beetle.com for information. jay

  20. Hello, i am Mark and i am from Belgium. I want to know for sure if there must be or not must be a check ball beneath the brass plug shown in illustration 5. I am talking about the one with the PFS.
    Grts Mark

    1. Mark,
      Hello! Let us do some quick research. Back shortly.

    2. Hello, Mark…I am glad to hear from you from Belgium! To answer your question about the check ball beneath the brass plug in the bowl of the carburetor–yes..that ball is essential. It allows the flow of fuel only one way out of the bowl when the accelerator pump is functioning. The accelerator pump is pulling fuel from the bowl. The check ball prevents back-flow (which would be detrimental, of course). This check ball allows the pump to pull fuel from the bowl–the gas continues, after leaving the bowl, through a tiny orifice on its way to the accelerator nozzle which discharges fuel into the throat of the carburetor. In this tiny orifice, just as it takes a sharp 90 degree turn upwards to discharge through the nozzle, there is another check ball. This one is very tiny! It’s function, also, is to prevent back-flow. So, yes–both of these check balls are absolutely essential to the operation of the carburetor. I hope that this helps. We hope that you stay in touch with 1967beetle.com! jay

      1. So i have 3 check balls. One in the bottom of the fuel bowl , one under the brass jet- plug wich would be pressed into the rim drilling when the carburetor is fully assembled. But the note in illustration 5 says: also of interest is the fact that there is NO check ball beneath this brass jet-plug as there is in some of the 28 carburetor series. And one little tiny one on the passenger side of the carb. So i just want to know if the check ball under the brass jet-plug who leads to the pfs dispensing tube is necessary. If so, i thus have 3 check balls.


        1. Hello, Mark…I understand now. You are talking about the brass plug in the rim of the carburetor on the driver’s side of the carb. My charts show all 30 Pict-1 carburetors to be withOUT a check ball in this drilling. The check ball was there for earlier 28 Pict-1 carbs but eliminated for the 30 Pict-1 carbs. Why, I cannot say. At least, this is what my charts tell me. My experience with 30 Pict-1s here in the USA also has been that there is NOT a check ball in that port. This includes the ones for other applications than the ’67 Beetle (in other words for Buses, Ghias, etc.) There seems to be no need for it. Any residual gasoline simply would flow back into the bowl and would have no effect upon performance. Out of interest sake–what is the stamping on the carburetor flange? jay

        2. Hello Jay,
          There are two numbers on my carburetor. One is VW 47-1 and above this number it is 9547_0
          Both numbers are situated on the back of the fuel bowl , not on the manifold flange.

          1. Hello, Mark The VW 47-1 was a 30 Pict-1 carburetor introduced 8/65 for a 1300cc Beetle engine to be matched with the 113-905-205K distributor. It had a 125 Main Jet with an Air Correction Jet size of 125z. It had NO check ball in the PFS. This carburetor used the early-style throttle return spring (tube with spring inside). Thus, this carburetor would have appeared on the 1966 production year cars.

          2. Thank you for the information.

        3. Mark, you surely are welcome! Stay tuned to 1967beetle.com! jay

  21. Great article, Jay. Eric … it would be nice if there was a “print” option for articles like this.

    1. I agree. 1967beetle.com is such an amazing resource.

      1. Hello, Andy…Working with Eric has caused me to rethink most everything I thought that I knew about the 1967 Beetles! It’s amazing. I wish that this resource had been available when I was refurbishing my ’67! Thanks for commenting. jay

    2. Hey, Donna! Sure. I could make it a PDF download. I’ve been asked that before. And, I DO work for you. :)

      1. ;). Gary HAS commented on how demanding I am. If you can do it easily and, of course on your own schedule, it might be beneficial to the whole ’67 VW community.

        You, Jay and the other contributors do such amazing work and I’m very grateful.

  22. This is Andy T. “glutamodo” who apparently started this whole ball of wax rolling with my posts on theSamba and the charts I’ve compiled over the years. Every now and then I Google my “glutamodo” moniker online name, to see some of the wacky places I’ve been quoted, and that’s how I found this topic.

    I have some comments:

    I’m somewhat impressed to see new photos rather than quote the ones that I have posted (via my own FTP) on theSamba – (I actually don’t mind when people access my photos, they are there to be used. )

    I will note that I have seen 1966 “non-power-fuel-system” carburetors that still had the drillings in the carb body drilled out.

    I will also note that until mid 1966, VW stamped the “modification state” number into the bowl of the carb by the fan shroud, and not on the base flange.

    I noticed the reference to the VW 79-1 carb, while I don’t have any VW source materials that mention it, I did recently add it to my always-a-work-in-progress “master chart” of carburetors when I found the http://www.ruddies-berlin.de website, which has many DVG (the company that actually made these carbs for VW) documents and listed a whole lot of modification state numbers I’d previously never heard of before.

    You can find my master chart here, in MSWORD DOC format:


    Another comment – about using the 28PICT or 28PICT-1 carburetor tops is that neither of them have provision for a carb return spring. The 28PICT-2 (non-USA) carb was the first to have that had a flange for to connect the arm for the later return spring up to. Also, the 28-series carbs usually have a larger “jet” in the power fuel system than the 30 series – when used with the check ball in the carb body, its delivery was limited somewhat. With no check ball on the 30 series, no check ball was needed. Of course, Bus and Ghia variants were different than on Bugs.

    So, should I change the VW79 entry to VW 79-1 with an Austia note?

    -Andy T.

    1. Good info, Andy! I’m sure others will chime in as well.

    2. Hello, Andy! I appreciate your valuable comments! I recognize you as one of the knowledgeable persons on the Samba Forums who passes his knowledge to the rest of us! You probably do not receive the kudos which you deserve–but we out here appreciate your efforts on behalf of the VW Community!

      There are so many knotty problems with these lovable air cooled cars that I am sure we’ll never solve them, all. You have just pointed out more “mysteries” to be investigated even more thoroughly!

      Thanks again for your insights, Andy!


  23. [* WordPress Simple Firewall plugin marked this comment as “trash”. Reason: Failed GASP Bot Filter Test (checkbox) *]
    Why does it say 78-1 on the flange of the carburetor in figure 8 instead of 105-1 if this is a 67 carb?

    1. Hello, Bruce…Whoops—yes, author error. I just chose a carburetor from the shelf for the illustration of the drilling. Unfortunately, this 30 Pict-1 (VW 78-1) is for a T-2 (Bus–Aug. ’65). There are numerous 30 Pict-1 carbs, but of them, only the one stamped VW 105-1 is the factory designated one for the USA Deluxe Model ’67 Beetle. I apologize for the confusion. Thank you for reading the article. Keep enjoying your ’67 Beetle! jay

      1. Jay- how do we add a photo or picture to our comments?

        1. Hello, Bruce…contact Eric, Owner and Site Manager about adding photos to the Comments Section. Thanks. eric@1967beetle.com jay

  24. I said, in this Article, that there was no 6 volt Idle Cut-off Valve for 1966 carbs. This is incorrect! There certainly were. Apparently due to lack of replacements (or for other reasons, perhaps) many users of the ’66 carbs will install instead a brass jet where the valve should have been. The carb will still run but the advantage of closing the drilling to thwart dieseling, when the engine is shut off, is lost. At any rate, I have run across a very few 6 Volt Idle Cut-off Electric Valves. I continue to learn! jay

    1. Hi Jay. I was reading this article and found it very helpful. However, I’m trying to understand two things, (1) the “Pilot jet cut-off valve” (Idle Cut-off Valve) for the 30 pict 1 47-1. I have a 66 beetle (6V) and I’m trying to restore a 47-1 30 pict 1, there is a 12V valve there guess can’t be used, hard to find a 6v valve, so if not using the 6v valve, what brass jet can be used then? (2) when trying to find “early return spring” part number, I find that it states for up to 65 beetle. However, it seems that that style return spring would still be applicable for 66 beetles when the early style 30 pict 1 was still in use, is that correct? Or should find a 75-1 instead?

      1. Jay will reply soon!

      2. Hello, Jorge…

        Thank you for taking time to read the Article and to Comment!

        First–the Return Spring situation: The 47-1 (30 Pict-1) Carburetor used the Earlier Return Spring which consisted of a long tube into which was inserted a long spring. The Spring was secured inside the Tube using a special Split Washer.

        Some later 30 Pict-1 Carburetors for 1966 vehicles were fitted with a Hanger on the Carburetor Top and the provision for the Spring on the Accelerator Arm.

        My Chart tells me this:

        46-1 (Ghia) and 47-1 (Bug) use the Early Return Spring System

        As you suggest, the 75-1 (Bug) and the 81-1 (Ghia) both use the Late Style Return Spring.

        As for the 6 Volt Pilot Jet Valve–I have 2 or 3 and I “think” that they operate. I need a 6 volt source with which to check them for viability.

        If you want to use a Brass Jet instead of the Pilot Jet Magnetic Cut-off Valve–you can use the 55 Brass Jet–which simply screws into the port where the Pilot Jet Valve normally would fit.

        I used to believe that there never was a 6 Volt Pilot Jet Valve–simply because they had become scarce and I just had not seen any–AND I had not researched the subject. Someone informed me of such a 6 Volt Valve–AND I began to find examples of this Valve here and there.

        I hope that this helps, Jorge. Thank you for your patience!

        jay salser

  25. Another amazing tutorial Jay! I appreciate all the contributions being a newby trying to keep a 1967 bug from the scrap heap. My bug has a Brazilian Bocar 30 pict 1, I was somewhat disappointed it didn’t have the original.

    Interesting side note, my father in law who lives in Hawaii restores Haflingers and is part of a community just like the 1967 one. He was sorting thru his Haflinger parts and came across a cool old plastic gas can that fits in the spare tire and a 30 pict 1 carburetor. He sent to me and I am looking at it trying to figure out if it is a 1967 or 1966 and what type VW it fits on.

    It has some marking on it.
    Made in W. Germany
    Solex 30 PICT-1
    nothing on the flange but stamped on outside of bowl

    Any ideas?
    Thank you

    1. Hello, Kevin…It always is a journey unraveling the components of these cars after almost 50 years of alterations. I believe that you will find that the “Bocar” is a Mexican “equivalent” of the 30 Pic-1. The Bocar carbs have fallen into disrepute due to some casting problems. Brazilian Solex uses the name “Brosol”, instead. The VW 45-1 appears to have been for a ’66 Bus (T-2) beginning in 8/65. The matching Distributor would have been 131-905-205 and the engine displacement would have been 1500ccs. The Factory Main Jet would have been 115. The Factory Air Correction Jet would have been 135z. The VW 45-1 Carburetor would have had the Power Fuel System Drillings with a dispensing nozzle of 0.75 and no check ball in the Power Fuel Drillings. The Factory Pilot Jet would have been g60. Contrast the Main Jet of the VW 105-1 for the ’67 Beetle which would be120. The VW 105-1 Air Correction Jet would be 125z. The Power Fuel System Dispensing Nozzle for the VW 105-1 would be 0.50 with no check ball. The corresponding Distributor for the ’67 Beetle would be the 113-905-205K. The Pilot Jet Valve (idle jet) would be the g55. The Factory Engine Displacement would have been 1500ccs. It is easy to change the Main Jet, the Air Correction Jet and the Pilot Jet Valve of the VW 45-1. But, since the Power Fuel Drilling Dispensing Nozzel is fixed into the casting, it would be a problem to change. Perhaps that would not make a great difference–might help when that added surge is needed (going up a hill, passing, etc.). BTW–check for identifying markings on the Gasoline Container. Hang onto that, my Friend! jay

  26. Can someone tell me if you install a vw 83-1 top on a 105-1 carb will your engine run normal . Thanks

    1. Hello, Earl. You pose an interesting question. The VW 83-1 Carburetor was an unusual carburetor (from my perspective). It was dedicated to the 1300cc Beetle but is “dated” 8/67. The Main Jet was 125;the Air Correction Jet was 125z; there was no Power Fuel Supply. The chart which I use does not indicate 6 volt or 12 volt. I speculate that this carb might have been a “factory replacement unit”. Purely speculation on my part! Now compare the 83-1 with the VW 105-1 which was for the Beetle from 8/66 with a Main Jet of 120, an Air Correction Jet of 125z and with the Power Fuel Supply drilling and a Dispensing Nozzle of 0.50 w/o a check ball. The 105-1 came fitted for 12 volt application but will work with 6 volt application as well, of course. As to your question: your combination will operate. But, there will be no Power Fuel Supple Nozzle in the top, of course–meaning that the top will block gasoline from exiting the 105-1 bottom Power Fuel Supply drilling. Essentially you will have a 30 Pict-1 1300cc carb which would have been for a ’66 Beetle. What is the reason for applying the 83-1 top to the 105-1 throttle body? jay

      1. Hi jay,my carb is marked vw 83-1 but it has all the indications of a 105-1 it is drilled out in all the passages you show in your pictures.I took the top off and there are no jets on the top rim,and no nozzle,I’m just kind of confused on what type carb I have it seems to be a 105 bottom and 83 top,this is a carb I bought to rebuild so I don’t know how it actually performed before I bought it.Thanks

        1. Ah. I understand a little better the reason for your questions. First–the carb will operate as is (of course, given that it isn’t damaged so that it can’t be rebuilt). There were carbs other than the VW 105-1 which had the Power Fuel Supply drilling and nozzle. They just were not specifically for the 1967 Beetle. Thus, the PFS Nozzle could/would be of a different size. Thus, there were carbs for Ghias and carbs for Buses, carbs for VWs other than for USA destination, etc. My chart shows that the 83-1 did not have the PFS. The casting may be there but it may not be drilled. Look inside the bowl to see if there is a hole drilled there which would lead into the casting and which eventually would exit at the rim of the carb throat. I doubt that you will find such a drilling. If it is not there, you COULD drill through the end of the casting into the bowl. Then, drill from the rim of the throat into that casting from the top. Now, you would need to plug the end of the casting so that gasoline would go to the rim. Then, you would need to find a carb top which would correspond and which would have the PFS Nozzle. Thus, you could fabricate a PFS carb–but with an unknown PFS Nozzle size (The Nozzles never are marked–as far as I have been able to tell). The carb tops are not marked to match the bottom halves. A bit complicated and with an unknown outcome, of course. jay

  27. I recently acquired my very first VW Bug. A Euro 67 with a 1500. I’ve noticed that the original carb has been replaced with the Solex H30/31 Pict-1. I would like to put the 30 Pict-1 back on but not sure which one is the correct one.
    Did the 105-1 carb come stock on the 1500 Euro 67 ?
    Also, how were the Euro 67’s jetted?
    Thanks in advance!

    1. Hello, Russ…I have several questions about your car. Why do you think that your Beetle is a “Euro”? Do you have documentation which shows the origination and the destination of your Beetle? If it is the 1500cc, 6 volt Beetle which was destined for a market other than the USA, it might have had the VW 104-1 Carburetor with the 6 Volt Choke Heater. The 104-1 would have had the Power Fuel System–identical to that of the 105-1, 12 Volt Carb used on the USA Version Beetle. Let us know what you discover, Russ. jay

      1. Hi Jay,
        After being told it was a ‘euro’,I tried to find the original documentation and get the history from the previous owner. Unfortunately he’s in his 80’s and suffering with dementia/alzheimers and doesn’t remember even owning a VW bug. His son was the one who sold us the car. It had been sitting for over 5 years collecting dust. I’m going to try and get a birth certificate from Germany.
        My neighbor has been into the VW scene here in So. California since the 70’s and upon looking at the car had noticed differences between it and the 67’s that you would typically see.
        From memory, some of the differences he pointed out are are sloping headlights, locking steering column, different interior door handles, no emergency flashers or back up lights, thin chrome trim/mouldings, different hubcaps and driver’s side mirror, 4-lug wheels with power dics brakes in the front, 6v wiring. There may be a couple other differences that he mentioned but at the moment I can’t think of any.
        I also took it to a VW show here in Garden Grove, CA last week and one of the bug ‘gurus’ came and took a look and also said it was a ‘euro’, and also mentioned that because it has a sunroof and a 1500 motor it was pretty rare, and “don’t leave it in your driveway overnight”. lol
        Since they both told me the same thing I’m trusting that they are being truthful with me. Honestly, pretty excited about it!
        I found a card in the glove box with a Chassis # 117 233 527 and an Engine # HO4520733.
        Since it is a 6v, will that make parts even harder to find?

        Thanks in advance!

        1. Hello again, Russ—Yes…this does sound exciting. Not many here in the USA. Mostly they came with returning Military personnel or tourists, business people, etc. 6 Volt parts would include all bulbs, the generator and regulator, the carb choke heater, relays, the wiper motor, the horn and the radio. I think that most switches don’t care whether it is 6 or 12 volts. If it still is 6 volted, good. Most stuff prob. is okay. There’s a good supply of most 6 volt parts. Is there a VW1500 script on the decklid? There were 1300cc and 1200cc ’67 Beetles as well. It was a different marketplace in Europe and elsewhere. The sunroof is a real jewel to add to the car! That really adds to the value. Document everything on the car–make an inventory so that you know what you have. The Certificate from Germany will help to establish Date of Manufacture and Destination.
          You can expect to wait for a good number of months for the documents. I hope that you will keep 1967beetle.com informed of your findings and progress. Keep up the good work, Russ! jay

  28. Jay,
    The script on the decklid only says ‘Volkswagen’
    Thanks for the additional info.
    Lots of good info on this website!
    Much appreciated!

  29. when I bought my 67 Deluxe Beetle two years ago in San Diego, California, USA, it had a miss-mash of parts on it from who knows when. and where The carb was a 30 PICT 2, so when I could, I got a 30 PICT 1 105-1 for it.. Thanks to Jay and Eric for my education in many things 1967 Beetle.

  30. Mark, you are most generous with your comments–thank you. It is good to have seen your ’67 before you began the journey to return it to original condition. Keep up the good work! jay

  31. From Jorge Ortiz–we received this Set of questions: Hi Jay. I was reading this article and found it very helpful. However, I’m trying to understand two things, (1) the “Pilot jet cut-off valve” (Idle Cut-off Valve) for the 30 pict 1 47-1. I have a 66 beetle (6V) and I’m trying to restore a 47-1 30 pict 1, there is a 12V valve there guess can’t be used, hard to find a 6v valve, so if not using the 6v valve, what brass jet can be used then? (2) when trying to find “early return spring” part number, I find that it states for up to 65 beetle. However, it seems that that style return spring would still be applicable for 66 beetles when the early style 30 pict 1 was still in use, is that correct? Or should find a 75-1 instead?

    1. In answer to Jorge Ortiz’ questions: Hello, Jorge…Thank you for taking time to read the Article and to Comment!
      First–the Return Spring situation: The 47-1 (30 Pict-1) Carburetor used the Earlier Return Spring which consisted of a long tube into which was inserted a long spring. The Spring was secured inside the Tube using a special Split Washer.
      Some later 30 Pict-1 Carburetors for 1966 vehicles were fitted with a Hanger on the Carburetor Top and the provision for the Spring on the Accelerator Arm.
      My Chart tells me this:
      46-1 (Ghia) and 47-1 (Bug) use the Early Return Spring System
      As you suggest, the 75-1 (Bug) and the 81-1 (Ghia) both use the Late Style Return Spring.
      As for the 6 Volt Pilot Jet Valve–I have 2 or 3 and I “think” that they operate. I need a 6 volt source with which to check them for viability.
      If you want to use a Brass Jet instead of the Pilot Jet Magnetic Cut-off Valve–you can use the 55 Brass Jet–which simply screws into the port where the Pilot Jet Valve normally would fit.
      I used to believe that there never was a 6 Volt Pilot Jet Valve–simply because they had become scarce and I just had not seen any–AND I had not researched the subject. Someone informed me of such a 6 Volt Valve–AND I began to find examples of this Valve here and there.
      I hope that this helps, Jorge. Thank you for your patience!

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