Admin note – An older tutorial I put together that was worth another mention. This seems to be a popular topic in my inbox over the last few weeks. A big thanks to Wolfsburg West for their support and always producing top quality parts for our old cars.
I’m going to start off by being 100% honest: rebuilding your doors isn’t easy.
I’ve read ”the experience is best described by words not suitable for polite company.” However, YOU CAN DO IT! I called around the Bay Area before taking on the task myself. Most shops (that would actually take on such a job) wanted $800-$1,200.00, plus parts.
Rest assured, this is in fact a task you can handle. The biggest part of it all is taking your time. Deep breaths, and take each part step-by-step. I also recommend picking up a set of plastic stack-on organizer bins, as inside door components are small and can be easily lost.
In my opinion, good progress is about 6 hours per door. This includes breaking everything down, checking the regulators, re-greasing parts, installing inner and outer scrapers, and slowly getting everything back to its former German glory.
Before you jump into the task, you’re going to need the correct parts. (German parts!) Our good friends at Wolfsburg West have it covered. Here’s a breakdown of what you need to complete the job. This is assuming your door regulators, window winder, vent windows and lift channels are in working order. I did have to replace my left lift channel because it was rusted out.
This has probably happened to all of us ’67 owners at one point or another. One of the early attractions to the Vintage Volkswagen (for me) was how easy everything is to fix; even for the compleat idiot.
Don’t you wish modern cars were this way? I don’t even change the oil in our daily driver. Kudos to Volkswagen of old for their innovation and the idea of keeping it simple.
Lug Bolts often are incorrectly called “nuts”. For the 1967 Beetles these bolts are 12mm X 1.50 thread with a 9mm head.
Over-tightening the lug bolts not uncommonly results in stripped drum threads. Or, perhaps it is just the years of loosening and retightening the steel bolts that eventually wears the soft cast iron threads.
Once the threads in a drum hole have been stripped, the car should not be driven. The lack of one lug bolt can bring about failure of the remaining bolts due to the undue stress placed upon them.
An obvious solution is to buy a new drum. But, as with many other Volkswagen Beetle situations, there is a good solution which will save that drum!
But, first, let’s talk about some tools which will make this job possible. If you don’t own the tools which we will discuss, or don’t want to own them, you may be able to find a shop or VW friend to do this repair for you. My VW friends and I have found it difficult to locate a shop with the proper tools to do this job.
Admin note – An older tutorial put together by ’67 Beetle enthusiast Marius Strom, I figured it was worth another mention. This seems to be a popular topic in my inbox over the last few weeks.
Are you able to reliably lock and unlock your ’67 with the key from the outside? Do you ever feel like you’re going to twist the key off when you use your door locks? If so, your guide pin in your locking mechanism is probably broken.
Fixing them is pretty simple, and worthwhile — the door handles on a ’67 Beetle are one-year-only, and while you find a few on eBay or TheSamba’s classifieds, it’s worth rebuilding yours – it’s only a couple of bucks.
This article was submitted by good friend and ’67 enthusiast Tom Griffin. Thank you very much for your contributions to 1967beetle.com.
Restoring wheels to have the distinctive cumulus white band adds to the ’67 Volkswagen Beetle’s distinctive look. There are a few small details to keep in mind, and also the opportunity to incorporate some modern-day technology into the vintage look.
My wheels were showing their age and I wanted to restore them. Because of its durability, I decided to powder coat the wheels black, and then paint the white band on top of the powder coating. Talking to guys in the paint industry allayed my concerns with adhesion of the paint to the powder coat. I chose a color that was as close as I could get to L43 Grey-Black. After looking through color samples as Maas Brothers in Livermore, CA, I decided on RAL9004 in satin finish. Maas Brothers bead-blasted the wheels to remove paint, rust, bugs, and dirt, so that only the pristine metal remained. Then they applied the powder coating, which is a process of electrostatically attracting the paint to the metal, and then baking it on at around 300 degrees. The all-black wheels were ready for painting.