The ’67 Beetle parcel tray carpet installation info below was submitted by a reader of 1967beetle.com, Don Barker. A huge thanks to him for taking the time to compose such a valuable article for the vintage Volkswagen community.
If you are on a limited budget like me and can’t afford German square weave, look into Wolfsburg West’s synthetic set. It’s really good looking at half the cost. You should get their padding set (German, same as stock) and firewall mat, black or gray, they’ll sew onto your carpet at no charge.
The first pictures are my carpet and padding sets. I chose gray even though the correct color carpet for zenith blue cars is charcoal.
The next pictures show prepping the wheel wells and installing the padding, it stretches to conform, it’s good stuff. Then the wheel well carpet is glued on and trimmed to the body line. I used contact cement and a brush until I ran out, then got two cans of 3M Super 77. It takes longer than contact cement to get tacky, sometimes 15 minutes. Good time to clean your hands. I used lacquer thinner after every gluing, before handling the carpet.
Next comes some measuring and laying out the padding. The parcel shelf is about 35-1/2″ wide under the window to 36″ at the back of the tray, then to almost 37″ where the “bar” for the seat-back flap is, which is 28-1/4″ from the top of the padding. I cut mine off there. I stopped the padding at the top of the vertical portion of the firewall, to later allow the carpet to “roll-over” the top. Also, you should cut out for rear the seat-belt mounts, whether you use them or not.
Fit-check the carpet and the padding together in the car and cut it out for the seat-belt
mounts to match the padding. Trimming the edges of the padding with scissors to fit.
The next photos show gluing the bottom on separately. I left mine full length as the seat-bottom rests on it. Glue just the firewall, not the floor, from under the window down 14″, and the back of the padding, using cardboard “masks.” Hold at the two top corners, “aim” the top edge and press lightly, then smooth it down the firewall. When gluing the floor don’t glue the last 2 to 2-1/2″ from the “bar”, Tuck the end into the bar with a putty knife, then cut it flush so its not inside the angle. Another piece of carpet and the seatback flap go in there, too.
The next photos show fit-checking the piece of carpet, measuring and cutting a slit for the seat-back bar. I did this by actually tucking the top into the slot under the window and lifting up at the bar and marking with a sharpie. I double-checked by measuring both marks to be the same distance from the top before cutting. Measure the width of the bar and cut a slit that wide and centered. Fit-check it before gluing it in.
Glue the carpet piece to the firewall the same way as the padding, down about 14″. Leave the top sticking up the same amount as when you were fit-checking and measuring for the “slit”. I used a plastic body-putty spreader to tuck the top into the slot under the window. Glue the floor down the same way you did the padding, leaving 2″ to2-1/2″ from the slot and tucking the carpet into the bar with a wide putty knife. Glue the part below the slit making sure the web on each side gets glued.
Almost done! I pushed the welting really hard down into the corners with a wide putty knife, going around a few times, also the underside of the bar. Massage the whole thing down really well numerous times.
The finished product.
It took me two days to do mine but it was too hot to work inside the car for more than an hour at a time. It actually gave me time to cool off and plan the next step. It took me, probably six hours total, but was fun and I’m content with how it came out.