Tips Posts

’67 Beetle Engine Detail

Our good bud Chris Vallone of Classic VW Bugs just produced a short film in regards to engine detail. Of course it’s the best year; the 1967 Beetle which we all know and love. If you have any engine detail related questions, feel free to chime in below. Chris will be happy to reply.

’67 Beetle Turn Signal Problems

390634968_41fd3314a2_oI received an e-message from Reader and Author Joy Rabin, of California. She copied to me a message from Ryan Pettit of The Big Island in Hawaii. Ryan’s question—where to find some good front fender turn signal bulb holders for his 1967 Beetle.


From 1964 through 1967 the front fender turn signal housings are essentially identical—identical lens cover, identical lens, and almost identical bulb holder—EXCEPT that the bulb holder is fitted for 6 volt application 1964 through 1966 and for 12 volt in 1967. The bulb holder for 1967 has two terminals because the parking/running light has moved from the covered head light bucket to the turn signal. The bulb holder now had two electrical spades and the bulb had two filaments.

1968 through 1969 turn signal housings are, for all practical purposes, the same as for 1967 except that each chromed lens cover is cut-back on the sides to reveal the bulb’s light as a “side-marker”. To accommodate to this new lens cover, the lens is fabricated to fit the contour of the new lens cover.


It is my studied conclusion that the bulb holder reflectors for ’67 through ’69 are less robust than for previous years. This comes into play later in this exercise.

Ryan, Joy, and her husband Gary, and I looked around the Internet for replacement bulb holders for 1967 Beetles. I spent time speaking with the representatives of 3 major vendors. All agreed that no one today manufactures an identical replacement for the 1967 through 1969 bulb holder.

In fact, today’s replacements have only one electrical prong for the bulb holder’s single filament bulb (according to what I found). This thwarts the reasons for the twin filament which was new for 1967. And, it is just plain maddening to those of us who want our cars to be correct!

’67 Beetle Ignition Points

DistributorPointsJNow and then in the World of Volkswagen Parts, a New Old Stock (NOS) Part will surface.

Recently, I purchased some 113-905-205K Distributor cores in order to try to resurrect them for selling. This Distributor is pertinent to Beetle years 1966-1967. The seller generously included a set of NOS Ignition Points with the cores.

It’s always exciting to look at Volkswagen history. And, here was a bit of it in my not-so-sweaty hands.

The Points are in their original German packaging. The box reads: “Original Ersatzteile”—meaning “Original Spare Parts”. (Read: Original Replacement Parts)

Vintage VW Running Board Restoration


Editor’s Note: A huge thanks to Joy Rabins for her contributions to This is one of the most complete articles we’ve ever featured. Our timing lights are pointed in your direction, Joy!

The running board project had been on my list of things to do since I purchased my bug the year before. The surface of the boards looked ugly. There were lumps and bumps of rust under the rubber mats which made it look like it had the worst complexion ever. After doing some research on the web, mostly through YouTube, I thought it was time to tackle the job. Somehow the YouTube videos always make a project look a lot
easier than it turns out to be. Many tend to skip over problems areas as I found out when I did my project.

My cars running boards are original and I wanted to keep them as original as possible. The only parts that I would eventually purchase and replace were the rubber mats, the rubber washers between the running board and fenders, and the clips that hold the molding to the running board. I was able to clean all the original metal washers, bolts and nuts and reuse them.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t until after I had started the project that Jay Salser suggested I write an article on my experience resurfacing my running boards. Therefore, I don’t have a photo of my old running boards attached to the car. I did take a photo of the rubber mat after it was removed from the board. The first photo, “top side of mat”, shows all the bumps where the rust raised the area of the rubber mat. The “Underside of mat” photo shows the rust attached to the underside of the rubber mat.

Vintage Volkswagen Deftost System Rebuild


Editor’s Note: Having never done this job on any VW, I was at a loss how to counsel Richard Diaz. My main job was to act as his cheering section. Richard’s solution to this problem is brilliant! Thank you, Richard, for persevering despite your VW War injuries!


Maybe it is a form of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, but owning a vintage Volkswagen seems to bring out that trait in most of us who own a vintage VW! Living in Southern California there aren’t many days that a heater, windshield wiper, or a defroster are needed, but to not have them work just drives me up the wall and over time I have dedicated a lot of time to making them work as they were designed to work.

When I bought my “Papa’s Slugbug”, about three years ago, two of the long list of things I wanted working before I picked up the car were the heater and the defroster! To close the deal, the seller agreed! Well, he installed the wrong heater boxes, bus heater boxes, and didn’t attach the heater cables from the lever controls at either side of the emergency brake back to the flaps under the rear seat. Then he used a three-way splitter connection, from a 1968 Bug, for the defroster on the passenger side, using the large size hoses for that splitter, which made the passenger side barely work and the driver and center vent not work at all! I fixed the heater by installing the correct heater boxes and connecting the cables! But the defrost system required a little research to figure out, since I did not have a clue that I was missing the two Y-splitters, nor was I aware of how the system was designed to work!


I have been studying the defroster system to figure out how to fix it! What I have learned is that it is a very basic system, but the parts are a little difficult to find. After a Google search on tips to fix the defroster I was emailing my good and knowledgeable friend Jay Salser. Jay and I had a lot of discussion and he offered referrals to locations where I might find the correct “Y” splitters and hoses! Jay is always willing to help any vintage Volkswagen enthusiast and share not only his knowledge, but his resources. Many times he will share parts right out of his parts pile! Jay also is an advocate of keeping the restoration process as original as possible, so he quietly rejected some of the inventive ways others fixed their defrost systems. When Jay’s parts pile came up empty for the Y-splitter, I knew I was in trouble!

After his first referral for the Y-splitters didn’t pan out, Jay referred me to an advertiser on The Samba, Avery’s Aircooled Auto, located in Kelso, Washington. Soon two Y-splitters were ordered and delivered. The Y-splitters have three different hose sizes. The upper defroster hoses; one for the corner defrosters (1-1/4″ inner diameter fits over the corner defroster tube) and one for the center defroster (1″ inner diameter fits into either side of the center defroster tube) were found at Airhead Parts in Ventura, California. The third hose, the largest of the three (1-1/2″ inner diameter fits over the heater channel pipe flange), runs from the bottom of the Y-splitter to the heater channel, was more elusive.

Thanks to Jay’s persistence to find a single source for the three hoses he finally called and talked to Mark at Wolfsburg West. In a pretty excited phone call from Jay on a Friday morning he told me that Mark went out of his way to guide a search of their product site! You see Jay, and I had been trying to navigate the site by typing in what we were looking for in the “search” window and coming up empty.

Other vendors I searched online either did not have them, or only had the defroster hose from the heater channel to the Y-splitter, or the hoses from the Y-splitter to the corners and center. None had all three! None of the main sites I frequent sold the two-way splitter, either new, nor did they have used ones! And, one vendor who specialized in used parts took all my information and never got back to me! Another, who specialized in used parts never got back to me and after my third try to communicate on the phone I realized I had dealt with this vendor before and had a similar, but more serious, experience, so I abandoned further attempts!

Jay and Eric, of, are proponents of documenting system restorations and resources for parts for future restoration work that many of us will be involved in as we keep these fine cars on the road. For that reason I have submitted this article.

My opinion/theory of why Volkswagen Engineers used the varied hose size configuration is to increase the pressure of the warm air pushed by the engine fan to the front of the car to the Y-splitter. Reducing the size of the hose from 1-1/2″ to 1-1/4″ to the corner of the windshield, a relatively short distance, decreases the volume, but increases the flow pressure to blow the warm air into each corner (Venturi Effect) . The distance to the center of the windshield defroster is greater in distance and the reduction to a 1″ diameter hose further increases the flow pressure to travel the increased distance. But, because of this competition for warm air, the center defroster must receive warm air from both heater channels.