Jay Salser does it again, folks. Many many ’67 Beetle owners around the world appreciate the fruits of your labor. – ES
At some point, I accumulated some Z-Bar (Equalizer Spring) Components. I decided to sort these and at least learn their Names and Part Numbers. There’s not much future in calling parts—“the thing-a-ma-jig”. You get the picture.
I know that a lot of 1967 Owners won’t be excited by all of this, but there are some who enjoy knowing about the “minutia” of their cars. For those—I decided to post the information which I have accumulated. Thanks to David Brown, I have been able to acquire those VW Part Numbers which I could not find on my own. And, Neva Salser whipped out her Digital and snapped a multitude of photos from which to choose some for this exercise.
Note: The Z-Bar continued into the 1968 Production Year for 1968 Beetles so that the Z-Bar is not a one-year-only part.
In Europe, the Z-Bar took a different configuration. Also, somewhere in there, the replacement for the Z-Bar with which we are familiar was superceded by the one in the photo below.
This fantastic tech tip style article comes to us from RonWaller, a loyal reader and part of the ’67 Beetle community. Jay and I appreciate everyone that contributes. Without YOU, there would be no 1967beetle.com. Lastly, let’s pause for a moment to thank Ron for his service to our country. Semper Fi.
I have replaced the window felts and scrapers a couple of times now. There are some excellent sources out there on how to do this. However, I found most of them do not provide enough information it get it back together – right. Make note of how you take the door apart. Pictures are a great backup. When you put it all back together some of the reconstruction is counter intuitive. Those notes and pictures will help. My objective is to help you complete the process with as little aggravation as possible.
After the spilling of considerable blood and using language I haven’t used since my time in the Marines. Jay Salser encouraged me to make notes of what I did hopefully help others who decide to go thru the process.
My outline is only meant to help you get it all back together. You may like their ideas better. Do read them, as they definitely help you especially with the removal.
The scrapers are fragile and sharp. There are also sharp edges on the inner door – be careful. Before you start keep this in mind. From inside out, you’ll have the inner door panel, regulator, vent window upright, then outer door panel.
The scrapers. One of the hardest and most frustrating parts of this process is getting those little clips which hold the scraper in place into the rectangular holes in the door. It is hard to line them up both vertically and horizontally.
Be generous with the use of painters tape. I put it on all “exposed” surfaces to help prevent an accidental scrape.
Before I even try, I mark the position of the holes with a non-permanent felt pen. Trust me, this will save you a lot of frustration. If you “miss” the clips may be ruined and the parts will need to be replaced.
Next, place just a little bit of candle wax on the end of the clips. Don’t overdo it. I have tried other lubricants, but this was by far the best (thanks Jay!).
Install the outer scraper. Hold it in place with painters tape. It is very thin aluminum and tends to “flap” around. That little bit of tape helps keep it out if the way.
Install the felt clips which help secure the outside scraper.
Some aftermarket scrapers have a screw hole at the top front. The one from WW does not. You probably had to remove a small sheet metal screw during the removal. Before you go to the next step, you will need to drill a hole to help secure the outer scraper. It’s not a big deal, but it definitely helps in lining up the scrapers, vent window, etc. (photo 3)
Install the regulator. Make sure it goes under the top part if the inner door. I missed and had it installed incorrectly. It must go under this lip. This is when you need a third hand as you position the scraper! Do not ask your wife! Look down through the window opening, you should not be able to see it. If you do, you missed. I missed, and what is not an easy job become impossible. You can then install the bolts around the crank and the one needed at the top “left” corner. Install them loosely. Just enough to hold the regulator in position.
When I removed my regulator I thoroughly cleaned it with brake fluid cleaner. Fifty years of grime adds up!
I then placed axle grease in the channels to lubricate the “spring.” When you have the regulator off you will see what I mean.
Insert vent window, but leave it loose. I use painters tape to hold it in place. Reinstall the Phillips screw at the top of the vent window.
You have to work the front of the scraper rubber into the vertical vent window rubber. I use a bicycle tire tool and dish soap. You need to get the aluminum on the outside of the rubber.
Install the glass.
Put some tape over areas that the glass might rub.
Another fantastic and well articulated article from Jay Salser. Our timing lights are pointed in your direction. Thank you for all you do here at 1967beetle.com.
I commonly hear the words—“I had a vapor lock!”
We mostly think of vapor in conjunction with heat. So a BIG question arises when the “vapor lock” occurs under cool circumstances. This renders such a diagnosis suspect.
It is very easy to blame a poorly functioning air-cooled engine on a “vapor lock”. When someone calls to ask what can be done to cure a “vapor lock”, I ask lots of questions.
I want to hear how the car-engine acted. I want to hear about the circumstances that led to the problem. I want to hear about the ambient temperature.
My mind follows the Fuel System from the Tank to the Fuel Pump. And I literally ask the caller questions during my mental perusing of the Fuel System. It’s like a movie playing through my brain as I listen and ask questions.
In any case usually no firm diagnosis is reached and the next time it happens, the same scenario plays out.
One person reported that his car stalled at the roadside. A passing motorist stopped to give aid. He produced a bottle of water and poured it over the Fuel Pump. Soon, the engine started and the driver resumed his journey homeward. The assumption—the Fuel Pump had suffered a “vapor lock”—even though the weather wasn’t even hot.
Recently, Frank Salvitti talked to me about the “vapor lock” which temporarily put his car out of commission. He had driven a few miles, parked his Beetle and gone into the store to make his purchases. When he came out—the car would not start. He said that he could not see any fuel in the Fuel Filter (mounted, still, in the engine compartment). Eventually, after the engine had cooled, he surmised, the car started and he drove home.
Here’s what I asked Frank to do. I asked him to get a Fuel Pressure Gauge to connect between the Fuel Pump and the Carburetor. In a few days, he reported Fuel Pressure in excess of 5 PSI. This is far too much pressure.
The Float Valve (commonly called the Needle Valve) in the top of the Carburetor cannot withstand such High Pressure. Gasoline forces its way into the Bowl and begins to overflow down the throat of the Carburetor. When this happens, not enough air can mix with the un-atomized gasoline and the engine is choking to death on raw fuel. It either stalls or won’t restart after having been turned off.
Until all of that raw gas has dispersed and evaporated.
Think of the Bowl of the Carburetor as a toilet tank. If we hold the float down, water continues to fill the tank until it finally overflows. We have generated “excessive pressure” on the tank float—overpowering the cut-off mechanism.
Sometimes the Pressure is so great that gasoline can be seen percolating in the filter (if it is connected between the Pump and the Carb). With the Air Breather removed, raw gas sometimes can be seen over-flowing down the throat of the Carburetor. This especially can be seen if the car has been parked nose-uphill.
First, let’s review how the Fuel Pump operates through the following photographs.
The Fuel System of an air-cooled Volkswagen is not a complicated System.
But, there are some Fuel Issues which continue to plague the VW Community—some of them easily resolved with a little bit of thinking and work. These are things which most of us can do ourselves.
First, rather than running to all of the forums on the subject, it’s time to sit down to consider how the Fuel System of our Beetles works.
CAUTION: When working with Gasoline—ALWAYS work outdoors and away from any source of flame or spark!
The Fuel Tank:
Complaints about Gasoline Fumes are common. Two things usually contribute to Gasoline Odor in the Trunk. This Odor often penetrates to the Cabin area.
Let’s talk about the Tank Filler Neck. Note that there is a tiny Tube coming off the Neck
pointing towards the left side of the car. By removing the Gas Cap and looking into the Filler Neck, we can see the Tube protruding into the inside of the Filler Neck. Where it protrudes, it is slightly pinched. This is to limit the amount of liquid gasoline which can escape through the Tube. A tiny Rubber Vapor Hose (N203531—ID-2.0 mm/OD-3.5 mm) is pushed onto the tube where it exits the Filler Neck. It needs no clamp since it fits tightly and there is no pressure upon it. (Note: Vapor Hose also may be marketed as Vacuum Hose.)
The Vapor Hose loops back towards the driver, then back again to the front of the car where it is pushed through an opening and allowed to dangle several inches beneath the car. Thus, any Gasoline Vapors will exit beneath the car and will not escape through the Trunk area and into the Cabin. If the Vapor Hose is missing or improperly routed—Gasoline Vapors will permeate the Trunk area and pass into the Cabin. Be sure that the Hose is present and routed through the hole to beneath the car. 2 Hose Clips (111-201-261) keep the Vapor Hose stabilized on the Cowling Loop.
If the Tank Filler Neck Tube becomes plugged, gasoline will not flow properly from the Tank Outlet. Also, make certain that the Vapor Hose is not pinched or plugged.