Tips Posts

30 Pict-1 Carburetor Differences

Genuine Restored 30 PICT 1 Carbs

Digging into the archives here at 1967beetle.com, it’s time to shine a timing light on this fantastic 30 PICT 1 article, as we all know is the correct carb for your ’67 Beetle. A huge thanks to Jay Salser for all he does for 1967beetle.com.

I have been driving and working on ’67 Beetles for over 37 years. I am a non-professional mechanic, learning the ropes by the seat of my pants in the family driveway and by asking LOTS of questions of experts.

Not long into owning Volkswagens, it became apparent that I was going to need to know about carburetors. My VW mechanic, at the time, was obliging, telling me some tricks of the trade. By this time of life (I’m now 74) I thought that I knew the 30 Pict-1 inside and out, by heart, and could work on them in the dark. But…….

That “but” caught me way off-guard. It caught some other people off-guard, as well. Here’s how it happened. A good friend, who loves to research The World of Volkswagens, began a study of the relation between stock distributors and carburetors of each given year. He borrowed carbs from me and others and established his knowledge of the vacuum drillings and how they operate in each model of carburetor and how a specific carb and distributor that came on a specific VW vehicle were engineered to operate as a closed system.

DIY Vintage Volkswagen Tow Bar Pins & Clips

DIY Tow Bar Pins and ClipsI run constant ads for used tow bars. Not only so but I keep a sharp eye for tow bars at swap meets. Sometimes, I get lucky.

If I get a tow bar which is missing the Pins and Clips, or the Pins are rusted, I make my own from what I can obtain at a good hardware or one of the large “box” hardware stores.

I purchase J-Bolts/Anchor Bolts from the hardware or builder’s section for these. When Neva and I went recently to buy one for this article, we found them in the nail section of a large “box store” in the hardware department. Buy J-Bolts which are galvanized to prevent rusting. (2 of these cost me, including tax, $2.32)

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Anchor Bolts are used for slab foundation buildings. When the cement is still wet, these are inserted with the bent piece down. The threads remain showing. When the cement has dried, the sill plates and other plates will be bolted to these J-Bolts.

Buy J-Bolts which are longer than what you need. I purchased Bolts that are just shy of 8-1/4th inches in length. This way, the threads can be removed so that you can drill the Holes for the Hitch Pin Clips–which also can be purchased at these same stores. A pair of Clips cost me $1.30, including tax.

The Hitch Pin Clips which I use are 5/32nds of an inch in diameter by 2-15/16ths inches long (measure on the straight side) and are bright plated.

Each Bolt comes with a large washer and nut. These can be put with your other saved-for-that-obscure-project parts.

’67 Beetle License Plate Bracket

License Plate BracketI was choosing a License Plate Bracket for a customer’s 1967 Beetle. Not having focused particularly upon this part, I first examined the Bracket on my own ’67 Beetle.

I did so upon the premise that my car’s equipment is original and correct. So, I performed my examination. Then, I went to my storage and selected the bracket box where I found several—some identical to my own Bracket and some a bit distinctive.

I choose one which was in the best condition. It is of aluminum and had the least bends in it due to years of usage.

Vintage Volkswagen Steering Wheel Restoration

Vintage Volkswagen Steering Wheel RestorationI’ve learned through process that proper steering wheel restoration is and art. How to do it the right way and achieve professional results is a question that fills my inbox weekly. I’ve been wanting to write this article for some time, and I just finished restoring my own wheel in our ’67 Beetle, We’re starting to offer this as a restoration service to our customers. Here’s some insight into how it’s done.

I’m not at all trying to come off arrogant, but restoring a steering wheel (or anything for that matter) does take skill and understanding of the painting and body work process. Don’t expect that you’re gong to throw a quick coat of primer on your wheel on a Friday, spray it with some paint and be back on the road by Monday. The drying process (curing) alone can take 2 weeks or more, depending on your geographic location.

Let’s talk a little about what you’re going to need.

  • A clean, dry area to work
  • High quality masking tape
  • Gloves
  • A respirator
  • An air compressor with an automotive paint gun (Assuming you already have experience with this)
  • Professional epoxy resin.
  • Automotive primer
  • Body filler (For the smaller scratches)
  • The correct color VW paint, and knowledge of what your correct color is. (I’m a purist)
  • Time
  • Patience
  • Attention to small details that no one will care about but you
  • Sandpaper. 220, 500, 2,000, and 3,000 grit for the final stages. Also, understanding how to wet sand properly.
  • Lacquer Thinner
  • Glazing putty

What is an epoxy resin?

Epoxy resins, hardeners, and other products are high performance materials. They are a complex blend of chemicals specially selected to give each system its desired characteristics. As with any chemical, poor handling or misuse can be potentially hazardous to health, therefore it is essential that the appropriate safety procedures are observed when using these products. Materials Safety Data Sheets should be available for each hazardous product from the materials suppliers.

Let’s get started.

Assuming that the wheel is removed from the car, the first thing you’re going to want to do is clean it. Keep in mind, it’s the most used item in your vintage VW. 45 + years of love means it’s going to need a proper bath. I like to use Lacquer Thinner. It dries fast, and removes all of the oils and dirt. Don’t be surprised if you have to really have to spend some time cleaning it. Mine took at least 15 mins. Allow to dry. This will give you a moment to have lunch and think about your next ’67 Beetle purchase, or that NOS part you’ve been hoping to source.

’67 Beetle Engine Component Fasteners

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Reader Kevin Cook inquired about which Bolts to use with the Coil Bracket on his 1967 Beetle. Not having a ready answer, Eric and I began to ask some questions. I went to my bolt bins. I also made a call to David Brown of Pennsylvania. He and I discussed the possibilities, sorting bolts as we talked. Then, I recalled that another Reader, Richard Marcoux of Nebraska, has an unmolested ’67 Beetle. Richard and I spoke by phone and he agreed to take some photographs. Here’s what we concluded after much talking and searching of parts, etc.