Tips Posts

’67 Beetle Idle Cut-off Valve

30-pict1
If your Deluxe 1967 Beetle has a 30 Pict-1, VW 105-1 carburetor, you will have noticed, as in photograph #1, a little “canister” protruding from the passenger’s side, right at the generator. If you have not noticed this “canister” maybe yours has been replaced by a simple brass jet.

Volkswagen called this “canister” the Pilot Jet Valve. Today, it is called variously, although most people call it the Cut-off Valve or Idle Cut-off Valve.

Volkswagen carburetors have a brass jet which is called the Idle Jet. When the car is not in motion, for instance, the accelerator pedal is not being pushed. But we want the engine to continue to run so that when we are ready to start moving, the engine will be ready for that operation. The idle drilling draws gas, using vacuum, to keep the carburetor feeding some gasoline/air mixture to the engine—enough to keep it running at low rpms for us. The brass jet usually is marked g55 for many Beetle carburetors over the years.

The cars of yester-year sometimes had a tendency to “diesel”—that is, to continue running after the key was turned off. The Volkswagen was no different. Probably most of us have experienced this problem at one time or another. A VW mechanic tells me that dieseling could be due to a leaky gasket or a high fuel level or pressure. Such conditions would cause fuel to continue to feed through the idle port and cause the engine to run—usually very jerkily—ka-Chug-a–ka-Chug-a….

Undercoating Vintage Volkswagens

Undercoating Vintage Volkswagens

Digging in the archives here at 1967beetle.com, we wanted to put this article in the spotlight once again.

Foreword: Rather than to address “undercoating” as a general topic of discussion, I’ve tried to keep the focus upon undercoating as it related to Volkswagens through 1979 and as it relates, now, to the vintage Volkswagen hobby.

Undercoating has around for years and years in the world of vintage Volkswagens.

The theory behind undercoatings is that a barrier could be created to prevent the infiltration of moisture. Undercoatings themselves had no rust-inhibitive qualities. They simply have been intended as a barrier.

VW dealerships sold the service to new car buyers as a preventative measure to guard against rust. It was a money-making operation and dealers loved it. Especially was it offered in the colder climate States and especially where salt was used on icy roadways.

Recently, I spoke with a former VW trained specialist. He described the undercoating procedure as he observed it. He said that the dealership where he worked had one bay with a lift, “in a dark corner”, where the “nasty” undercoating took place. He told me that it was part of a money-making effort by dealerships in the make-ready department. Undercoating was applied using a hose and gun working from a 30 gallon barrel of material.

I have had my doubts over the years about its effectiveness in sealing the undersides of a vehicle as a moisture barrier. Here’s why. I was in the painting industry for almost 30 years. If there is a coating, I likely have seen it or read about it. In my experience, despite all claims to the contrary, coatings will fail. There is no “eternal” coating. I’ve heard claims that “you’ll never have to paint again”. Why can’t this be true?

Undercoating Vintage Volkswagens

It can’t be true because of expansion-and-contraction problems. When the base material—wood, metal, plastic—expands or contracts, the coating is going to suffer, eventually. Some coatings are better suited than others. But the fact of the matter is that coatings fail.

Metals, especially, are given to fluctuations from heat and cold. They will expand and contract more, and more quickly, reacting to weather and usage conditions.

What’s another problem? It’s the fact that the underside of a vehicle is not a continuous sheet of metal. Not at all. The undersides of vehicles are composed of pieces that have been fitted to form a unit. This could be through a continuous weld or spot-welding or with nuts and bolts and washers. There are joints. Every place where there is a weld or a nuts-and-bolts joint, expansion rates will differ.

As well, the application of undercoatings must completely encase all of this in order to form a viable covering—it must be seamless. This doesn’t happen.

The next issue is that undercoatings historically were shot onto factory painted surfaces. In order for a coating to adhere, there must be the possibility of adhesion. Slick surfaces will not offer such adhesion possibilities. As a result, I have been able to remove portions of undercoatings on Volkswagens simply by using compressed air. Sometimes, I have been able to remove it in sheets, simply because of the lack of adhesion. I can imagine that vibration over the years helps to loosen poorly adhered coatings.

Correct Running Board Color Combinations

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — Correct Running Board Color Combinations

Digging in the archives here at 1967beetle.com, we wanted to put this article in the spotlight once again.

Let’s talk about running boards in regards to the ’67 Beetle. Over years of wear and tear, they are often times replaced with the common black version. However, you may not be aware that 1967 was a very innovative year for Volkswagen. A deluxe ’67 Beetle would originally be fitted with running boards and fender beading to match the body paint color. In the event you’re looking to bring your ’67 Beetle back to its former glory, I’ve provided the correct color combinations, as well as a chart illustrating the information. You can download below.

Body color – Running board color

L41 Black – Black – 
Black
L282 Lotus White – Savanna Beige
L456 Ruby Red – Black
L518 Java Green – Black
L620 Savanna Beige – Savanna Beige
L633 VW Blue – Black
L639 Zenith Blue – Zenith Blue
L19K Yukon Yellow – Black
L54 Poppy Red – Black

Note: Colored running board mats were only installed onto deluxe and convertible models, standard models (hardtop and sunroof) were equipped with black mats, regardless of the exterior paint scheme.

Correct Fender Beading Color Combinations

’67 Volkswagen Beetle — Correct Fender Beading Color Combinations

Digging in the archives here at 1967beetle.com, we wanted to put this article in the spotlight once again.

Let’s talk about fender beading in regards to the ’67 Beetle. Over years of wear and tear, the correct fender beading is often times replaced with the common black version. However, you may not be aware that 1967 was a very innovative year for Volkswagen. A deluxe ’67 Beetle would originally be fitted with fender beading to match the body paint color. In the event you’re looking to bring your ’67 Beetle back to its former glory, I’ve provided the correct color combinations, as well as a chart illustrating the information. You can download below.

Body color – Fender beading color                                                    

L41 Black – Black  – 
Black
L282 Lotus White  –  Savanna Beige
L456 Ruby Red – Ruby Red
L518 Java Green – Java Green
L620 Savanna Beige – Savanna Beige
L633 VW Blue – VW Blue
L639 Zenith Blue – Zenith Blue
L19K Yukon Yellow – Yukon Yellow
L54 Poppy Red – Poppy Red

Note: Colored fender beading was only installed onto deluxe and convertible models, standard models (hardtop and sunroof) were equipped with black fender beading, regardless of the exterior paint scheme.

30-Pict 1 Carb Installation

30-pict1

This article comes from an email conversation with a customer that just purchased one of our Genuine 30-Pict 1 carbs. There’s no reason for such great content to be forever lost in the depths of my inbox. So.. Let’s talk about how to properly install one. Words by the amazing, Jay Salser.

Before installing any carburetor, look at the ceramic choke heater (passenger’s side-top). There are 3 screws securing the choke ring–which keeps the choke element in its intended position. Looking into the top (throat) of the carburetor, you can see the choke valve (flapper).

Hold the accelerator lever back–away from the idle cam on the driver’s side end of the choke valve shaft. Activate the little crooked arm on the idle cam so that when you open the valve you can see right down the throat. Turn the little arm loose to see where the choke valve will come to rest. This flapper valve wants to be set to close very loosely! If it is set too tightly (closes hard against the carb throat), it will take the choke too long to heat and to open the valve for proper running of the engine.

Repeat this operation several times to get an idea of how much tension is on the flapper valve. If it is closing too tightly, do the following.

Slightly loosen the 3 screws on the ceramic choke element retaining ring. Move the ceramic choke heater slightly clock-wise–to loosen the tension. Turn counter clock-wise to increase the tension. Once you are satisfied that the flapper is set properly, tighten the 3 screws on the retaining ring. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! These threads will strip easily. Just tighten firmly.
Genuine Restored 30 PICT 1 Carbs

Hopefully the gasket between the carburetor base and the manifold flange comes with the carburetor.

When you bolt on the carburetor…..you want to snug the carb to the manifold flange but don’t try to wrench it with all of your might. The gasket will be squeezed when you firmly tighten the nuts equally. This forms the air-tight seal which is required.

Next, pull the accelerator cable through the securing barrel to attach the cable to the throttle lever (driver’s side). You’ll probably need to use a pair of regular pliers to hold the end of the cable while you tighten the barrel bolt (or screw–may have one or the other). Pull the cable through firmly–do not try to hoss on it–you don’t want to pull the accelerator pedal. But, you don’t want to leave it hanging slack, either.