Tips Posts

Popout Widow Seal Replacement

Popout Widow Seal Replacement

This article was submitted by reader and ’67 enthusiast Jeremy Goodspeed. Thank you very much for your contributions to 1967beetle.com.

Even stock parts can deteriorate with time. Sitting on a shelf for sometimes decades can take their toll. Here we have a pair of New Old Stock popout windows for a 1967 VW beetle. They are in terrific shape with the exception of the outer seal. The seal has become hard and most likely will not mate up with the body properly. Usually these seals will crack or split apart in a short time. So, replacement with a fresh and more pliable seal is necessary.

Removal of the old seal is generally easy. Just pull a section out and the rest will follow. If the seal is hard, trimming the seal with a hobby knife may be necessary. Cut the seal deep to split it apart into two pieces along the length of the seal. Pull the first piece out and the second will generally fall out of the groove.

Once removed, it’s time to install the new seal. New seals have a bonded seam that is to be placed at the split of the window frame. This is located at the front of the frame where the hinge attaches to the car.

Using glass cleaner as a lubricant, spray it onto the window frame. Glass cleaner is a great as it evaporates, and does not leave a soapy residue that will streak of leak onto the car once installed. As the seal is a “T” shape, place the inner flap into the groove, and use a nylon bone tool to work the outer portion of the seal into the groove. The bone tool is excellent for this purpose and will not scratch adjacent surfaces. With the glass cleaner as a lubricant, this goes very quickly. Generally a seal can be installed in 5-10 minutes total.

’67 Beetle License Plate Bracket (Update)

67bug6a-1Looking further into my “box of brackets” I found one which I inscribed at the time I removed it from a 1967 Beetle decklid. In fact, it is written in marker and also scratched into the aluminum. This makes me know that I wanted to be certain to preserve its identity, even though I cannot recall the actual removal of the Bracket.

This Bracket affixes directly under the two outside studs of the license plate light housing. I suppose that all three of the stud nuts could be loosened sufficiently so that the Bracket could be inserted—all without complete removal of the housing—and the nuts tightened to secure the installation.

In the second photo, I note a potential weakness of this style of Bracket. The constant vibration of the plate, especially with the added weight, if there is a plate frame attached, may eventually fatigue the aluminum and it begins to crack at either end at the bend. Or…it could be that an owner kept bending the plate/Bracket to get the plate at the right angle or, perhaps, to keep the plate from vibrating against the decklid and destroying the paint.

30 Pict-1 Carburetor Differences

Genuine Restored 30 PICT 1 Carbs

Digging into the archives here at 1967beetle.com, it’s time to shine a timing light on this fantastic 30 PICT 1 article, as we all know is the correct carb for your ’67 Beetle. A huge thanks to Jay Salser for all he does for 1967beetle.com.

I have been driving and working on ’67 Beetles for over 37 years. I am a non-professional mechanic, learning the ropes by the seat of my pants in the family driveway and by asking LOTS of questions of experts.

Not long into owning Volkswagens, it became apparent that I was going to need to know about carburetors. My VW mechanic, at the time, was obliging, telling me some tricks of the trade. By this time of life (I’m now 74) I thought that I knew the 30 Pict-1 inside and out, by heart, and could work on them in the dark. But…….

That “but” caught me way off-guard. It caught some other people off-guard, as well. Here’s how it happened. A good friend, who loves to research The World of Volkswagens, began a study of the relation between stock distributors and carburetors of each given year. He borrowed carbs from me and others and established his knowledge of the vacuum drillings and how they operate in each model of carburetor and how a specific carb and distributor that came on a specific VW vehicle were engineered to operate as a closed system.

DIY Vintage Volkswagen Tow Bar Pins & Clips

DIY Tow Bar Pins and ClipsI run constant ads for used tow bars. Not only so but I keep a sharp eye for tow bars at swap meets. Sometimes, I get lucky.

If I get a tow bar which is missing the Pins and Clips, or the Pins are rusted, I make my own from what I can obtain at a good hardware or one of the large “box” hardware stores.

I purchase J-Bolts/Anchor Bolts from the hardware or builder’s section for these. When Neva and I went recently to buy one for this article, we found them in the nail section of a large “box store” in the hardware department. Buy J-Bolts which are galvanized to prevent rusting. (2 of these cost me, including tax, $2.32)

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Anchor Bolts are used for slab foundation buildings. When the cement is still wet, these are inserted with the bent piece down. The threads remain showing. When the cement has dried, the sill plates and other plates will be bolted to these J-Bolts.

Buy J-Bolts which are longer than what you need. I purchased Bolts that are just shy of 8-1/4th inches in length. This way, the threads can be removed so that you can drill the Holes for the Hitch Pin Clips–which also can be purchased at these same stores. A pair of Clips cost me $1.30, including tax.

The Hitch Pin Clips which I use are 5/32nds of an inch in diameter by 2-15/16ths inches long (measure on the straight side) and are bright plated.

Each Bolt comes with a large washer and nut. These can be put with your other saved-for-that-obscure-project parts.

’67 Beetle License Plate Bracket

License Plate BracketI was choosing a License Plate Bracket for a customer’s 1967 Beetle. Not having focused particularly upon this part, I first examined the Bracket on my own ’67 Beetle.

I did so upon the premise that my car’s equipment is original and correct. So, I performed my examination. Then, I went to my storage and selected the bracket box where I found several—some identical to my own Bracket and some a bit distinctive.

I choose one which was in the best condition. It is of aluminum and had the least bends in it due to years of usage.