Eric Shoemaker Posts

Ron Waller — Window Scraper Replacement

This fantastic tech tip style article comes to us from Ron Waller, a loyal reader and part of the ’67 Beetle community. Jay and I appreciate everyone that contributes. Without YOU, there would be no 1967beetle.com. Lastly, let’s pause for a moment to thank Ron for his service to our country. Semper Fi.

I have replaced the window felts and scrapers a couple of times now. There are some excellent sources out there on how to do this. However, I found most of them do not provide enough information it get it back together – right. Make note of how you take the door apart. Pictures are a great backup. When you put it all back together some of the reconstruction is counter intuitive. Those notes and pictures will help. My objective is to help you complete the process with as little aggravation as possible.

After the spilling of considerable blood and using language I haven’t used since my time in the Marines. Jay Salser encouraged me to make notes of what I did hopefully help others who decide to go thru the process.

My outline is only meant to help you get it all back together. You may like their ideas better. Do read them, as they definitely help you especially with the removal.

The SambaRob & Dave’s

The scrapers are fragile and sharp. There are also sharp edges on the inner door – be careful. Before you start keep this in mind. From inside out, you’ll have the inner door panel, regulator, vent window upright, then outer door panel.

The scrapers. One of the hardest and most frustrating parts of this process is getting those little clips which hold the scraper in place into the rectangular holes in the door. It is hard to line them up both vertically and horizontally.

Be generous with the use of painters tape. I put it on all “exposed” surfaces to help prevent an accidental scrape.

Before I even try, I mark the position of the holes with a non-permanent felt pen. Trust me, this will save you a lot of frustration. If you “miss” the clips may be ruined and the parts will need to be replaced.

Next, place just a little bit of candle wax on the end of the clips. Don’t overdo it. I have tried other lubricants, but this was by far the best (thanks Jay!).

Install the outer scraper. Hold it in place with painters tape. It is very thin aluminum and tends to “flap” around. That little bit of tape helps keep it out if the way.

Install the felt clips which help secure the outside scraper.

Some aftermarket scrapers have a screw hole at the top front. The one from WW does not. You probably had to remove a small sheet metal screw during the removal. Before you go to the next step, you will need to drill a hole to help secure the outer scraper. It’s not a big deal, but it definitely helps in lining up the scrapers, vent window, etc. (photo 3)

Install the regulator. Make sure it goes under the top part if the inner door. I missed and had it installed incorrectly. It must go under this lip. This is when you need a third hand as you position the scraper! Do not ask your wife! Look down through the window opening, you should not be able to see it. If you do, you missed. I missed, and what is not an easy job become impossible. You can then install the bolts around the crank and the one needed at the top “left” corner. Install them loosely. Just enough to hold the regulator in position.

When I removed my regulator I thoroughly cleaned it with brake fluid cleaner. Fifty years of grime adds up!

I then placed axle grease in the channels to lubricate the “spring.” When you have the regulator off you will see what I mean.

Insert vent window, but leave it loose. I use painters tape to hold it in place. Reinstall the Phillips screw at the top of the vent window. 

You have to work the front of the scraper rubber into the vertical vent window rubber. I use a bicycle tire tool and dish soap. You need to get the aluminum on the outside of the rubber.

Install the glass.

Put some tape over areas that the glass might rub.

Pull the regulator towards you.

’67 Volkswagen Beetle Hubcaps

Hello, ’67 Beetle community. I wanted to share a great tech tip style video from our good friend, Chris Vallone over in NY. As some may know, we (Lane Russell) do offer the correct hubcaps for your ’67 Beetle. Installing them the right way is equally important. Nothing is more frustrating than dented hubcaps.

Of course, we are here to help if needed. Please comment below if we can do anything for you.

FOR SALE — ’67 Beetle Engine

Hello, ’67 Beetle community. Up for sale is a later year engine built to correct specs for the ’67. (As close as possible) Feel free to comment to Steve with questions.

I have a “period correct” style 1967 beetle engine. The long block was assembled by a vw enthusiast. It is an German H case dated for ’69 the stamp; H5773312 (the next best thing) I personally sourced all the era correct parts and all engine tin. It has correct carb and distributor. Had the heater boxes blasted and powder coated they function well. The thermostat is present and works.  As you ’67 guys know lots of time and money went into this build however it was a blast putting it together! It’s ready to built up to your 1967 beetle!

Status: For Sale
Mileage: 0
Price: $3,000.00, OBO
Contact: Steve Predmore  |  209-204-4077

SOLD — L639 Zenith Blue ’67 Beetle

Fresh to the market here at 1967beetle.com. What can I say? This L639 Zenith Blue ’67 Beetle is fantastic! It’s rare that we see cars restored the right way. A special attention to detail was taken on this gem.

Info from the seller below, who did let us know that 1967beetle.com and Lane Russell were a “huge help” in him being able to get the small details right. (Huge, humble smile) We thank you! Who’s going to take this one home?

The case was machined to within recommend tolerances. O.E.M Heads..new valves, guides ect. 1600 pistons/cyl…New clutch assembly…Complete new braking system. All new interior is from TMI, except seats. back seat is original, front seats have TMI covers put on in the 80’s I just cleaned them up. Front windshield has some pits, wiper rub. Pop out side windows.

All paint is PPG…small area under battery was replaced retaining the original hold downs. Original front and rear aprons, left rear fender was replaced in the 70’s new battery. NO RUST..My car was bought new and lived its life in the San Francisco bay area!!! (I am fourth owner) Valve adjustments, tune-ups, oil changes done by a vw shop, major work by the VW dealer…I have a number of receipts, and previous California DMV registrations.

Status: SOLD
Mileage: 263,783
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Price: Bidding on eBay
Contact: Bidding on eBay

Dean Kirsten’s L19K Yukon Yellow ’67 Vert

In the world of vintage VWs, there are so many special people that make this hobby what it is. Dean Kirsten is one of them. A former writer of Hot VWs Magazine, he reached out to share this very special story of his L19K Yukon Yellow ’67 Vert. It’s an honor. The ’67 Beetle community thanks you!

I would like to share my 1967 convertible with your readers. I found this VW in Naples, Florida after many years of looking for just the right vehicle that wasn’t in need of a lot of repair, or wasn’t fully restored. The more original, the better. After looking at nine ’67 convertibles all over the country, I came across this one just before it went up for sale. Randy Carlson knew I was looking for a very nice ’67 and figured this VW was a good match with my needs. I purchased this ’67 from a dozen photos, and several long phone conversations with the owner. But hearing that he was very ill and his days were numbered, I made the hard decision to take a chance and bought it without seeing it in person. Two weeks later, the car arrived in Costa Mesa, CA, and got my first close up look at what I bought. It drove like a dream, and I was more than pleased with its condition. Three days later, the former owner died of cancer.

This Yukon Yellow convertible was built on June 8, 1967 according to its birth certificate from the factory. It was shipped out of Osnabrueck, Germany on the 9th, and docked into the U.S. in Duluth, Minnesota. From there, it was trucked to Pray Automotive in Greenwich, Connecticut, where it was sold to Rev. Michael Kendall of Waterbury, CT. at the end of June. He used this car for one year, and then sold it to Clifford Swanson on July, 8, 1968, also of Waterbury. Clifford and his wife Elinore owned it until July 15, 2001, where it was sold to George Limnois, who I bought it from on February 6, 2013.

The first owner was a minister who got married and was expecting their first child, so they sold the VW for a larger car. Clifford and Elinore drove this car approximately 90,000 miles. In 1978, they had the exterior repainted and replaced both front fenders with Mexican replacements. During the 33 years they owned it, they never crashed it, and always kept in the garage and only drove it sparingly. Even with two children and various dogs, the top, headliner, boot, rear seat, mats, door panels and rear carpeting are still 100% original! I replaced the two front covers due to the driver’s seat had been patched poorly. I had Lenny Copp of West Coast Classic Restorations do the special request seat covers with proper heat seams and dimensions. He also made up a new gray German carpeting section for the front only.

Prior to the third owner getting ill, George had Monkey Nut in Charlotte, NC, do a detail and re-ring job to the original engine. To date, that HO engine case has never been split, as the pistons were/are 83mm VWs, rod bearings are still original, and cylinder heads have been only cleaned up. While the top end was being freshen up, the transaxle was removed and rebuilt by Mike Gagnier of Troutman, NC. Monkey Nut also went through the brakes, pedals and rear Z-bar. This engine has all the correct parts including the plug-in style generator, short coil with Bosch logo bracket, 30PICT 105-code carburetor with air cleaner support bracket, K-code distributor, Pierburg fuel pump, VW clamps, latch dust cover and so on.