Our good friend, Gavin LaMaide sent this gem over earlier this morning. It looks like he had a great time with the Michigan Vintage Volkswagen Club! Thanks to all around the world that support Lane Russell.
As Jay and I always say, it’s the ’67 Beetle community that makes 1967beetle.com what it is. Thank you!
Fresh to the market here at 1967beetle.com, we have a very respectable L633 VW Blue ’67 Beetle. Taking a deeper look, this ’67 has both correct German front and rear bumpers. Did I mention how hard those rear overrider tubes are to source? Also, you’ll notice the one year only safety knobs and AM Sapphire V radio. We all know how hard those are to come by. The car hasn’t been abused, chopped, lowered, etc. Restore it back to 100% factory, or drive and enjoy as is. Info below from the seller.
“I don’t know much about the history of this car. It’s a blue 1967 VW beetle. I bought it from an auctioneer friend who obtained it from an estate he was auctioning off. It was kept in a barn and he was able to crank it right up and drove it home after installing a new battery. I replaced the tires which were showing signs of dry rot and had the brakes fixed. I replaced the wiper arms which were missing and bought new floor mats.
The engine appears to have been replaced at some point in time as it is not original to this year model. The interior is in great condition with no apparent holes or tears in the seats or headliner. The interior carpets are all intact and the floor boards are solid. The original radio is still intact but an aftermarket radio has been mounted under the dash. The odometer shows 00967. ( I’m sure it has rolled over at least once) It cranks easily and runs great. I bought it for my daughter and she likes to drive it around on our farm but doesn’t feel comfortable out on the highway. (She named it Oliver after the character on the Arrow) I hate to sell it, but I don’t have the time or money to give it the attention it deserves. I have 2 kids about to graduate and head off to college. It has a clear Alabama title.”
Status: SOLD
Mileage: 00,967
Location: Alabama
Price: $6,500, OBO
Contact: Virgil Brasher – 205-368-0698
This article was submitted by reader and ’67 enthusiast Jeremy Goodspeed. Thank you very much for your contributions to 1967beetle.com.
Starting in 1965 VW changed the sunroof design for deluxe Beetles from a sliding ragtop design to a metal sunroof which requires a crank of a handle to open and close. Although the sunroof was smaller in overall size, it was much quieter, smoother and more secure than the older design.
As with any rebuilding project, preparation is vital for a successful rebuild. Although very difficult to find today, I was fortunate enough to have purchased just about every part necessary for the rebuild many years ago. NOS sunroof parts are just about extinct today, and if you’re lucky enough to find a part, you will pay a heavy price.
Listed for our friends over at BaT, this L639 Zenith Blue ’67 Beetle is an example of period correct along with a few modern upgrades. Also, SB12 Headlights! Who’s going to make an offer?
This 1967 Volkswagen Beetle is a restored example powered by a 1600cc dual-port flat-four paired to a 4-speed manual. Purchased in 2015, the seller has carefully finished the restoration by addressing originality details, and has driven it 3k miles since completion. The body was restored and painted in original Zenith Blue previously and shows well with good chrome. The restored interior is in very nice condition with fresh German materials and a working original Sapphire V radio. A complete tune up was just done which also included an oil change, valve adjustment, a Pertronix ignition, and new alternator. It comes with books, receipts from the seller’s ownership, transferable California black plates, and a clean Oregon title.
Status: SOLD
Mileage: 1,300
Location: Oregon
Price: Bidding on BaT
Contact: Bidding on BaT
This fantastic tech tip style article comes to us from Ron Waller, a loyal reader and part of the ’67 Beetle community. Jay and I appreciate everyone that contributes. Without YOU, there would be no 1967beetle.com. Lastly, let’s pause for a moment to thank Ron for his service to our country. Semper Fi.
I have replaced the window felts and scrapers a couple of times now. There are some excellent sources out there on how to do this. However, I found most of them do not provide enough information it get it back together – right. Make note of how you take the door apart. Pictures are a great backup. When you put it all back together some of the reconstruction is counter intuitive. Those notes and pictures will help. My objective is to help you complete the process with as little aggravation as possible.
After the spilling of considerable blood and using language I haven’t used since my time in the Marines. Jay Salser encouraged me to make notes of what I did hopefully help others who decide to go thru the process.
My outline is only meant to help you get it all back together. You may like their ideas better. Do read them, as they definitely help you especially with the removal.
The scrapers are fragile and sharp. There are also sharp edges on the inner door – be careful. Before you start keep this in mind. From inside out, you’ll have the inner door panel, regulator, vent window upright, then outer door panel.
The scrapers. One of the hardest and most frustrating parts of this process is getting those little clips which hold the scraper in place into the rectangular holes in the door. It is hard to line them up both vertically and horizontally.
Be generous with the use of painters tape. I put it on all “exposed” surfaces to help prevent an accidental scrape.
Before I even try, I mark the position of the holes with a non-permanent felt pen. Trust me, this will save you a lot of frustration. If you “miss” the clips may be ruined and the parts will need to be replaced.
Next, place just a little bit of candle wax on the end of the clips. Don’t overdo it. I have tried other lubricants, but this was by far the best (thanks Jay!).
Install the outer scraper. Hold it in place with painters tape. It is very thin aluminum and tends to “flap” around. That little bit of tape helps keep it out if the way.
Install the felt clips which help secure the outside scraper.
Some aftermarket scrapers have a screw hole at the top front. The one from WW does not. You probably had to remove a small sheet metal screw during the removal. Before you go to the next step, you will need to drill a hole to help secure the outer scraper. It’s not a big deal, but it definitely helps in lining up the scrapers, vent window, etc. (photo 3)
Install the regulator. Make sure it goes under the top part if the inner door. I missed and had it installed incorrectly. It must go under this lip. This is when you need a third hand as you position the scraper! Do not ask your wife! Look down through the window opening, you should not be able to see it. If you do, you missed. I missed, and what is not an easy job become impossible. You can then install the bolts around the crank and the one needed at the top “left” corner. Install them loosely. Just enough to hold the regulator in position.
When I removed my regulator I thoroughly cleaned it with brake fluid cleaner. Fifty years of grime adds up!
I then placed axle grease in the channels to lubricate the “spring.” When you have the regulator off you will see what I mean.
Insert vent window, but leave it loose. I use painters tape to hold it in place. Reinstall the Phillips screw at the top of the vent window. 
You have to work the front of the scraper rubber into the vertical vent window rubber. I use a bicycle tire tool and dish soap. You need to get the aluminum on the outside of the rubber.
Install the glass.
Put some tape over areas that the glass might rub.
Pull the regulator towards you.
